North American Turbocoupe Organization

So many failures, what do they have in common?
3bird Offline
I stopped and bought a drink last week, when I pulled away....

No HVAC - A/C won't start, no blower on any setting
No turn signals - hazards work though
No gauges - speedo & tach ok
No brakes(!) - no power assist anyway, and that ABS motor doesn't run when I turn the key on.

There may be more I didn't notice. It still runs fine.
What would power all those things? Fusable link?

Thanks for any insight,

86 XR7 5spd Offline
Senior Member
I'd start with the fusible links ..

sounds like one (or more!) have popped..
David T
T5 / ported E3 / .63 / 35# / K&N
2.5" exhaust w/ cherry bomb
30+ mpg! 8.2 0-60, 16.4@88 1/4 (gTech)

Jeff K Offline
Ignition switch.
Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
11 Crown Vic Interceptor
14 Toyota Camry (wifes car)
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized

3bird Offline
Of course. I don't know why I never think of the ignition switch.

anasazi4st Offline
Senior Member
You might have a problem finding the female ignition switch connector for the TC at a parts store...Ford doesn't list it any more, most of the other suppliers (at least, where I am in PHX, which is most of the major ones) don't have the correct one and will try and sell you a connector that doesn't have enough pins for all the TC's wires--you'll need an 11 pin connector.

CarQuest or Advantage Auto Parts sells it for under $4 (as of late 2015). It's part #PT5534. It's the only place I found it.

(My ignition switch repair started out as a one- to two-hour job, tops...until I couldn't find a new replacement connector. The old one was too badly burned to be re-used.)

Only a couple of the wires should be burned and need to be replaced. There's a half-dozen or so short pieces of various-sized gauges of wire with spade lugs already crimped on included with the new connector shell.

I transferred over the undamaged wires and either spliced the wire pieces to the damaged ones...or crimped on new spade connectors.

If you haven't already, I'd suggest you check out Jeff's excellent article on rewiring your fog lamps, using a relay to carry the 30 amp current instead of the ignition switch. I'd bet that's one of the reasons we go through them so often (I've replaced it 4 times since 1991.) Of course, here in the desert our A/C is often called on even in January, so that's a big current draw as well.

I last replaced mine last August, about 6 months after the fog lamp mod. I'll be curious to see how long it now takes to burn through another ignition switch--hopefully not for a loooong while.
Another proud dues-paying member.

1987 Turbo Coupe w/T5OD, 8.8 axle, grey smoke; most options. Got it in 1991 with 41K miles: 3 turbos, 2 heater cores, 3 T5OD full rebuilds, 6 clutches, 1 head gasket, 2 Teves II ABS units, etc. later....

3bird Offline
thanks for the warning. I have a parts car but was planning to go with a new part. I've rewired the headlights and the foglamps somewhat recently. They were definitely getting hot and may have cost me this switch.

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