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Ok, my TC is apart, engine on the stand waiting for insertion. So there I was taking out the seats so that I may put in the racing seats and discovered I needed to move the "electric" driver seat forward, hmmmm. I proceeded to connect the battery from the floor with my trickle charger to the car. Nothing happened, so I took out my ohm meter and discovered that if grounded one probe and touched the other to the battery side of the solenoid it zeroed out ? Short???
There where 4 wires on that side, so I probed each individually and found it to be the wire that essentially connects to the alternator thru a fusible link and into the firewall(also a bunch of other heavy gauge yellow wires too).
I couldnt see any damaged wires and the car ran before with no noticable electrical issue. Also didnt really change anything electrically yet.
Is this normal? If not where should I look and how else can I test it ?
There where 4 wires on that side, so I probed each individually and found it to be the wire that essentially connects to the alternator thru a fusible link and into the firewall(also a bunch of other heavy gauge yellow wires too).
I couldnt see any damaged wires and the car ran before with no noticable electrical issue. Also didnt really change anything electrically yet.
Is this normal? If not where should I look and how else can I test it ?
Christopher Taylor
85 TC, 2.3l, LA3, T3/T4 Turbo 25psi, Stinger FMIC, Forge BOV, Full 3" Exhaust, Esslinger crank pulley- Timing Gears and overdrive WP pulley, BBK 255lph FP, Kirban AFPR, Kirban Shifter, K&N Cone, 3g Alternator, Energy Suspension Bushings throughout, CHE LCA's, Welded SFC's, and TON's of other parts.
85 TC, 2.3l, LA3, T3/T4 Turbo 25psi, Stinger FMIC, Forge BOV, Full 3" Exhaust, Esslinger crank pulley- Timing Gears and overdrive WP pulley, BBK 255lph FP, Kirban AFPR, Kirban Shifter, K&N Cone, 3g Alternator, Energy Suspension Bushings throughout, CHE LCA's, Welded SFC's, and TON's of other parts.