North American Turbocoupe Organization



Shifting problems
Ryan H Offline
Posting Freak
#1
Alrighty! Well, it's an 88 TC 5 speed. Here's the problem(s). Every time I shift into 3rd it grinds like a madman. If I'm going out of 3rd into 4th, it grinds slightly but not really that bad. Double clutching doesn't seem to help.

If I'm shifting into 3rd from 4th, it grinds just as bad. If I shift into 2nd from 3rd or 1st from 2nd, it has a lot of resistance and I really have to force it into gear. While I force it into gear, I hear a "whirring" sound from 2nd and 1st gear, like something is spinning in there really lightly against something else. I did recently learn how to drive a manual, but I do have the clutch all the way in and the gas completly off as I shift gears and this happens. I also shift pretty smoothly on other cars and this one too, despite the grinding. Am I doing something wrong, or is there something wrong with this transmission?

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1987 TC, "Built" A4LD, Burgundy/Burgundy, 120,315 miles, all options but sunroof/leather, front end trashed...

1988 TC, 5 speed, Burgundy ext./Blue int., rolled back miles (lol), all options but leather, sunroof, salvage title Big Grin

In the process of turning the 88 into what the 87 was Smile

1987 3.8L V6, auto, 160K miles, no options.

My Audio Mixes
'88 TC Smile Walbro 255HP, Stinger FMIC, PIT BOV, Pro 5.0, Kirban, RR cam, FRPP strut tower brace, T3
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tps87turbo Offline
Posting Freak
#2
Sounds like Bad syncros. Did you check the fluid to make sure its full. If it is then I think you will need to have the tranny rebuilt.

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Tony Sceia -

HIS - Red 88 TC, Med Red with Raven Leather & every option, Walbro 255, 3" SS Downpipe with Magnaflow Dual SS 2.5 Cat Back system, 3-core Radiator, Star Stage 3 Clutch, Rebuilt T-5 Tranny, 4:10 rear, 140 MPH Speedo, New Paint, Headlights, Refinished Snowflakes & New Tires.

HERS - Blue 87 TC, fully loaded with every option, Gilies Valve, K & N Filter, 3-core Radiator...just needs a little body work & a new paint job.

87 TC - Bought as a Parts Car, & will remain a parts car now that I found the blue one.
Tony Sceia -

HIS Red 88 TC
http://turbotbird.com/showroom/data_r-z/...a_88tc.php
HERS - Blue 87 TC, fully loaded with every option, Work in Progress
87 Gray TC Parts Car - Gave to BJL and is now his daily driver
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Pete D Offline
Administrator
#3
You could check the travel on the rod that actuates the clutch fork to make sure it is extending at least 0.53". If not then there is a hydraulic system problem. You could also try changing the tranny fluid - Dexron II or III. It's cheap. I agree with Tony that it sound like syncros, http://www.hanlonmotorsports.com/HanlonTIC.html#diag

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NATO Member. It's not a vice, it's an obsession
Bumper Sticker of the Year."If you can read this, thank a Teacher... and since it's in English, thank a Soldier.
Never be afraid to try something new, remember amateurs built the ark, professionals built the Titanic.
Politicians and diapers should be change often, and for the same reason.
88 TC, 86 SVO, 04 Escape. Mods list at
http://www.turbotbird.com/showroom/pd_88tc.htm
Pete Dunham


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Ryan H Offline
Posting Freak
#4
Thanks for the useful link. I have a spare T-5 that shifted good (or so I was told) before it was removed. I think I'm going to put that one in and have the other one rebuilt for the project car I start. I'll change the fluid and check what I can that doesn't require taking stuff apart to great extents.

Thanks again guys.
Ryan

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Ryan Harris

1988 TC, 5 speed, all options including sunroof Smile

1987 3.8L V6, C4, 160K miles, no options (winter car, when it works)

RIP 1987 TC, "Built" A4LD, 119K miles, all options except sunroof Sad

My Audio Mixes
'88 TC Smile Walbro 255HP, Stinger FMIC, PIT BOV, Pro 5.0, Kirban, RR cam, FRPP strut tower brace, T3
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BJL Offline
Moderator
#5
with most T5's or any 5spd, 3rd gear gets wore out really quickly with hard shifts, becuase you put soo much force intot he shift when "racing" it actually moves all the gearing inside slight to much cuasign them to wear, which weara out the syncros, thats why most aftermarket shifters have stops for the shifter

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Brian J Larkin
1988 Non-Turbo Turbo Coupe
med gray met. raven/gray interior, fully loaded minus leather and sunroof!
converted to N/A 2.3l by previuos owner, but its a nice driver with working A/C!
sequentail turn signals, 3g alt,afpr, k&n, 2 1/2in cold air intake.
custom 2in dual exhuast with SN95 SS tips. Tripcomputer, a/f and vac guages. color coded wheels and under going body work and repaint!
1988 Turbo Coupe 5spd
dark blue metallic (the original Turbo!)
gillis boost valve, k&n cone,AFPR, 255lph, HP pump,3G 130amp alt, 3.73 gears,mild torquie cam, factory DP, 2003 mustang take off SS mufflers and custom BJL 2 1/4 tails.
(needs a front frame pull) DOH!!!!!
Brian J Larkin
88TC 320k miles
T3, FMIC ,3in stinger exhaust, gillis,
255 walbro, afpr, 5spd swap,spec clutch, sn95 5 lug,.
89 Cougar XR7 3.8SC Auto
95 Ranger Splash 3.0 auto
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Ryan H Offline
Posting Freak
#6
I looked into the travel today and it indeed isn't pushing the rod far enough out. My believe my aunt said it was in the 0.4x's. What is the first step to identifying the problem?

And does anyone know what size allen key the slave takes so I can try bleeding it? I can't even find the screw to turn [Image: frown.gif]

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Ryan Harris

1988 TC 5 speed, all options including sunroof, Walbro 255 LPH HP, Star stage III, bypassed BCS and lots of love Big Grin
'88 TC Smile Walbro 255HP, Stinger FMIC, PIT BOV, Pro 5.0, Kirban, RR cam, FRPP strut tower brace, T3
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Pete D Offline
Administrator
#7
See picture. "A" is the roll pin that hold the hyd line in place. "B" is the allen head bleed screw. Sorry don't remember size.

The rod is suppose to extend 0.53" minimum.
Gently peel the rubber cover on the rod end of the slave and look for leakage. A film of oil is OK but dripping oil is indicative of a slave leak and it should be replaced,

Be sure you check the fluid level in the resevoir before bleeding. It should only be filled about half way
Pete Dunham


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Ryan H Offline
Posting Freak
#8
Awesome Pete. Yet again, just what I needed to see.

The rubber boot on my fork seems to be unattached from the slave itself and has retracted about half way along the rod. Could this prevent things from working right somehow or damage the slave? There doesn't appear to be any leakage and the resevoir is half full with pretty clean looking fluid.

When bleeding, should I just fill it all the way and bleed it until its half empty?

-Ryan
'88 TC Smile Walbro 255HP, Stinger FMIC, PIT BOV, Pro 5.0, Kirban, RR cam, FRPP strut tower brace, T3
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Pete D Offline
Administrator
#9
Quote:When bleeding, should I just fill it all the way and bleed it until its half empty?

NO. Half full is as full as it's suppose to be. Look close and you will see a "fill" line about half way. Just don't let it go empty while bleeding or you will have to start over.

If it's already half full and you don't have leakage at the slave, check for leakage at the master.

The rubber boot should be on the rod end of the slave. I doubt that it is interfering but try to reposition it. See pic
Pete Dunham


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Ryan H Offline
Posting Freak
#10
Well, I had a quick look and felt around the master and there's no fluid leakage anywhere that I can see or feel. The resevoir has had the same fluid in it since I got the car a few months ago so I'm gonna try bleeding it all out today if I can find the time and hope that fixes the problem [Image: frown.gif]

Thanks [Image: smile.gif]
'88 TC Smile Walbro 255HP, Stinger FMIC, PIT BOV, Pro 5.0, Kirban, RR cam, FRPP strut tower brace, T3
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