Shes runnin! But a prob..

Thanks for all the help here everyone! Its been a great learning experience for me. had the timing a bit off at first but she fired right up after that.

SO NOW... another problem.... after I filled her with coolant I noticed the the coolant line coming off the side of the turbo, and running right across the top of the exhaust manifold where the turbo and manifold meet, is leaking, right over top of the manifold. how can this be fixwed and is it a pain in the butt to get to the line on the back of the block? Should this line be running so close to the top of the manifold? Its only about .5 inch or less clearance. And one more thing, I started this and had it running for less than a minute, mostly to make sure it ran, but also so I could finally move it from where it was, but, in that time, the turbo and exhaust manifold were super hot, like spit on it and its gone now hot. Is that normal so soon?

Changed the oil, put in 5 quarts and cant see anything at all on the dipstick and my check oil light is on?, None leaked out... hmm, guess thats all for now lol, Im just happy its running..

Check engine light means a code was set - for some sensor. Has nothing to do with oil level. Do you have the dipstick fully seated in the block and the dip stick tue bracket attached to the bracket on the upper intake?

Turbo and the exhaust manifold heat up very quickly.

Is it the metal coolant line leaking or the hose leaking?

Originally posted by Pete D:
Check engine light means a code was set - for some sensor. Has nothing to do with oil level. Do you have the dipstick fully seated in the block and the dip stick tue bracket attached to the bracket on the upper intake?

Turbo and the exhaust manifold heat up very quickly.

Is it the metal coolant line leaking or the hose leaking?

Thanks Pete, it wasnt the cel, it was the check oil light down by the shifter. Yes the dipstick tube is all hooked and seated, I see oil now. And its the metal coolant line that runs to the back of the block, rusted out and apparently messing with the head and all that around there busted it. How much line should I buy and what size? Thanks again Pete.

gadgetolds, I used some 1/4" brake line and flared one end, then some silicone coming off of the metal line leading to the block. I'll run outside and snap some pics for you

Sorry for the bad quality, I had to take them with my girlfriend's video camera... but I think you'll get the idea.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v634/l...5577a5.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v634/l...d2ac88.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v634/l...967837.jpg

This is the hose I use, be sure to buy at least 3 feet so you have plenty of room to work with. I changed my configuration a few times and ended up lacking in hose. Also with silicone, you want to wrap a piece of cloth like some shredded blue jeans around it where the clamp goes, or it will dig into the silicone... Ask me how I know

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1-4-1-Ply...QQtcZphoto

Ryan, can you give me detailed specifics on the flaring tool you use. The one I got wouldn't flare a stick of warm butter. What brand and where to get if you got that info?

Sorry on that CEL. Read it too quick.

Ok, Im tired of having to buy all these tools to fix the stuff thats breakin Now I need a flaring tool....

I know as soon as I fix this something else is gonna go lol, people keep sayin to get rid of it but, with all the money I got in it, itll be a really nice car in the end lol...

This should be fine for what I need right?

http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetai...mber=BL451

Pete/gadgetolds, I got the regular $12.99 double flaring tool from Harbor Freight along with a mini pipe cutter and a file for the tip of the tubing. Get a quality pipe cutter that cuts a very straight line, if you cut the tube even at a slight angle it'll mess up the whole flare.

I noticed recently at Advance Auto that they have a double flare tool for $12.99 that appears to be the same exact tool I have, only it doesn't come in a hard case to store the little flare bits and pieces.

As for buying the tool, you may not have to as long as you can get a good "texture" on the tubing end where the silicone hose goes. you just want something that the hose can grip onto once you tighten the clamps. Advance Auto and AutoZone both sell pre-flared brake line. Buy a pre-flared line, cut one end off and use that as the base for the metal tubing. Then rough up the other end with a file or something and you should be fine, just use two or three clamps like I did.