North American Turbocoupe Organization



Set Timing with no reference on crank?
deadbird Offline
Posting Freak
#1
I am going through some issues with my bird. It is narrowed to the IAC, TPS, VAM or TFI. I have no problem taking the dis out and replacing the PIP and the TFI but my car was upgraded to a ranger A/C and the crank pully is not stock and has no reference?

Side note.

Car isn't running well below 3000rpm. It wont do anything below that unless I floor the gas. If I remember correctly 3000 is open loop so its a sensor problem right? Sometimes it runs fine and sometimes the CEL comes on and it will run fine. Very confused. It happened when I was trying to fix something else. I cleaned some plugs and that's it. I have replaced the TPS since it started because it tested bad and had several KOEO and CM codes.
1987 5 sp.
- 4.6 2v swap.
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Nsw Offline
Senior Member
#2
If the #1 cylinder is tdc on the compression stroke wouldn't the timing mark be at 12 o clock on the pulley? ( I'm not 100% so hopefully someone else will chime in)

If so make your own timing mark
1988 5speed black every option. 3inch single turbo to tail(stinger), manual boost control. k&n cone walbro fuel pump

1986 xr4ti project car..... way to many mods to list.
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Pete D Offline
Administrator
#3
I'm thinking the mark has to be made 10* BTDC ?
Pete Dunham


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deadbird Offline
Posting Freak
#4
Is there any way to find out? I really want to figure this out but I don't want to pull he distributer with out being able to time it.
1987 5 sp.
- 4.6 2v swap.
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Not B Anymore Offline
Administrator
#5
This is from "TurboRay" over on TF. This will tell you where TDC is and you can make your own mark:

Quote:Find "true" TDC without removing the cyl head, as follows:
Make a piston stop from an old spark plug by:
Cutting or grinding off the swaged "crimp ring" above the hex of an old spark plug - it retains the porcelain body of the plug.
Remove the porcelain and cut off the ground electrode.
Tap the bore of the resultant plug shell with a 3/8x16 USS (coarse) tap.
Install a bolt into the plug shell with Loctite, so it's tip extends past the end of the plug thread about 1/2-to-3/4-inch.
Round the tip of the extended bolt with a grinder, sanding disc, etc.
Rotate the motor about 90° past TDC, remove the trigger wire from the solenoid (precautionary) and screw yer homemade piston stop into the #1 cyl.
Carefully rotate the engine CCW - BY HAND - until it stops due to the piston coming in contact with the stop.
Mark the crank pulley or dampener with a Sharpie where the "0" or "TDC" aligns.
Rotate the motor CW until the piston once again is stopped by coming in contact with the piston stop.
Make another mark as in step 4.
You should now have two Sharpie marks on yer pulley or dampener - one each, both before and after the former TDC mark (groove).
"True" TDC is exactly halfway between these two Sharpie marks. Simply use a 6-inch scale or tape measure to measure and locate where the "new" mark should be midway between 'em, and make a new permanent mark.
GOOD LUCK! [thumbup]

PS: Don't forget to remove the piston stop before reattaching the solenoid trigger wire and cranking yer engine!!!! [Eek!]

C'ya - RAY
Brian Leavitt
'86 TC 5-Speed -- MS2x w/COP | 83 lb. injectors | T3/T4 50 Trim Stage 3 .63AR | Full 3" Exhaust - No Cat | Motorsport FMIC | Ranger Roller | Ported E6 | Walbro 255HP | Kirban | 20psi | 120-amp 3G | 8.8" 3.55 rear | '03 Cobra Wheels
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deadbird Offline
Posting Freak
#6
Thanks for the replies. I found a small notch on the pulley. I marked it with some white out and hooked up the light to see what it was and it was it. Thanks for the help. I will be saving those directions though.
1987 5 sp.
- 4.6 2v swap.
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JohnathanB Offline
Member
#7
Another quicker way is take out the number one plug and stick a 3/8ths extinsion in there and rotate the motor and watch the extension as it goes up to the highest possible point aka tdc
88tc 5spd new paint, cobra r rims, mods are :header back exhaust 3inc to 2.5 duals, jdm t3/t4 stage 3 turbo 20psi,jdm external wastegate, k&n filter on vam, fmic, new bottom end .422 lift cam, c4 trans being built
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