Gary F
Joined:
Jan 2004
Lakewood, California USA
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My gauges (only) weren't working so I checked the wiring and found that the GY/Y wire was broken at the ignition switch. Fixed that, but now there's no power when I turn my key either to the run or acc position. The sensors aren't waking up, no noise from the fuel pump, no power to the dash. The lights, interior lights, chimes, console light, etc. all work. The ignition switch was replaced about a month ago, but I checked it with a spare and that's not the problem.
Gary Fraser
I used to be normal...then I got a Turbo Coupe.
'88 T5 Bone Stock w/3G Alt.
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RK87TC
Joined:
Nov 2004
Clearwater, FL, USA
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I just got done fixing the same gauge problem on my car. I pulled out the large GY/Y wire to solder the little cluster wire to it. When I went to put it back in I noticed there was choice of two slots to plug back into the main plug.....I ASSume I picked the right one as everything worked...You many not have been so lucky if you used the same procedure.
87 TC MM k-member package, EVM 3link/watts, Ess. d-port, 2277 solid cam, T3/04E 63 stg3/60, Spec III clutch, alum. flywheel, Stinger header-3" exhaust-FMIC-SDS-gillis valve, Cobra 17" polished wheels, moon roof, 5spd, K&N cone, 110 alt., 93 cobra MC/Booster, Steeda shifter.
Ralph
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Gary F
Joined:
Jan 2004
Lakewood, California USA
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No, I didn't do that. I just soldered it back where it was supposed to be and didn't remove any other wires. This is at the switch I'm talking about. BTW, was it just the gauges that didn't work for you, or was it everything like mine?
Gary Fraser
I used to be normal...then I got a Turbo Coupe.
'88 T5 Bone Stock w/3G Alt.
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RK87TC
Joined:
Nov 2004
Clearwater, FL, USA
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Mine was just the gauges. But on the ignition switch plug the little wire for the gauges goes into the same place as the large GY/Y wire. That is where mine was bad. was right there. Its a common thing to go wrong. If you do a search on "instrument cluster" or "ignition switch" you might find some more data.
87 TC MM k-member package, EVM 3link/watts, Ess. d-port, 2277 solid cam, T3/04E 63 stg3/60, Spec III clutch, alum. flywheel, Stinger header-3" exhaust-FMIC-SDS-gillis valve, Cobra 17" polished wheels, moon roof, 5spd, K&N cone, 110 alt., 93 cobra MC/Booster, Steeda shifter.
Ralph
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Gary F
Joined:
Jan 2004
Lakewood, California USA
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I know all about the gauges. That is not my problem. This is my problem:
Quote:Originally posted by Gary F:
now there's no power when I turn my key either to the run or acc position. The sensors aren't waking up, no noise from the fuel pump, no power to the dash. The lights, interior lights, chimes, console light, etc. all work. The ignition switch was replaced about a month ago, but I checked it with a spare and that's not the problem.
I don't know if it connected with the switch or what. That is what I'm trying to find out.
Gary Fraser
I used to be normal...then I got a Turbo Coupe.
'88 T5 Bone Stock w/3G Alt.
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RK87TC
Joined:
Nov 2004
Clearwater, FL, USA
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did you mess with the starter solenoid at all?...something else has to have been disturbed....even if only wiggled or something.
87 TC MM k-member package, EVM 3link/watts, Ess. d-port, 2277 solid cam, T3/04E 63 stg3/60, Spec III clutch, alum. flywheel, Stinger header-3" exhaust-FMIC-SDS-gillis valve, Cobra 17" polished wheels, moon roof, 5spd, K&N cone, 110 alt., 93 cobra MC/Booster, Steeda shifter.
Ralph
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Gary F
Joined:
Jan 2004
Lakewood, California USA
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No, didn't go near the solenoid. Everything happened in the steering column. There's no power to any of the dash accessories or to the solenoid. Near as I can figure, there's no power going to the ignition switch itself, and I don't know which wire supplies the current. The plug into the switch is halfway melted and the insulation on the large gy/y is scorched about 1/2 inch up.
Gary Fraser
I used to be normal...then I got a Turbo Coupe.
'88 T5 Bone Stock w/3G Alt.
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DonH
Joined:
Jun 2002
Central Massachusetts, USA
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Power is on the two yellow wires through a fusible link connected to the battery side of the starter relay, the BATT terminals on the switch. The larger GY/Y wire (switch A2) supplies power in RUN to fuses 5 and 17, the smaller is the resistance wire to the instruments. You can use either of the A2 connections on the switch if you want to change the position in the connector. You have to confirm that the connector is still functional and actually making good contact with the blades on the ignition switch.
You may need a new ignition switch as the usual cause of problems in the connector is the switch going bad.
1987 TC stock except ATR 2.5"
1983 Pontiac Transam T-top 5.7 T56 [email protected] top speed: 176mph
1978 Fairmont 2.3 4-spd Big-top S/W
1946 Willys CJ2A 134.2ci L4 No-top
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Gary F
Joined:
Jan 2004
Lakewood, California USA
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Thank you Don. Very informative. Relay, aka solenoid, correct?
Gary Fraser
I used to be normal...then I got a Turbo Coupe.
'88 T5 Bone Stock w/3G Alt.
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RK87TC
Joined:
Nov 2004
Clearwater, FL, USA
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relay/solenoid, either term is correct yes. The switch going bad is pretty common I had to replace mine a while back. I also had to get a new male connector and put the wires back in.
Don that is good info to know that you can use either of the A2 connections on the switch.
87 TC MM k-member package, EVM 3link/watts, Ess. d-port, 2277 solid cam, T3/04E 63 stg3/60, Spec III clutch, alum. flywheel, Stinger header-3" exhaust-FMIC-SDS-gillis valve, Cobra 17" polished wheels, moon roof, 5spd, K&N cone, 110 alt., 93 cobra MC/Booster, Steeda shifter.
Ralph
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