North American Turbocoupe Organization



Save me! Rear Brakes
w60 Offline
Senior Member
#1
I'm putting new pads on my rear brakes (everything stock).

Got the old pads off and turning the caliper in and it only seems to want to retract about 1/8 of an inch.

About how many turns should it take to retract the caliper all the way?
http://www.mycoachonline.com
White 88 TC Auto Trans
White 04 Honda CR/V
Blue 74 Honda Trail 70
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w60 Offline
Senior Member
#2
OK…the caliper above (Driver Side) was leaking so I got a new one.

Got to the passenger side and when I got the caliper off and tried to turn it with a pair of needle nose pliers it wouldn't move.

Am I missing something? Here's what I'm doing:

1. Remove wheel (duh)

2. Remove parking brake cable from caliper

3. Remove caliper from the rotor

4. Use a pair of needle nose pliers and turn the piston clockwise until it's all the way in.

That is where I stopped because it didn't want to move. Should the bleeds be open or anything else to insure there is no pressure on the system?
http://www.mycoachonline.com
White 88 TC Auto Trans
White 04 Honda CR/V
Blue 74 Honda Trail 70
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turbo80sdriver Offline
Administrator
#3
IMO, do one side at a time (e.g. make SURE the other caliper is in place with pads...) and compress the piston with a C-clamp for room for the new pads. If you do this with any other caliper off, you will blow out the seal. I don't turn the pistons at all when done this way.
'88 TC-Black T-5 with 79K stock 98.5% original, just w-i-d-e rims and tires, and some under hood powder-coating
'88 TC-Blue w/98K. Stocker w/t-5 ( the resurrection car) top gas mileage =31 mpg!
'88 TC-Grey w/99k. Auto, well optioned, 2nd owner car - getting more options
'87 TC-Blue w/123k t-5 parts car - less of a car now
'88 TC gray- body only so far- very very late factory build dated car, awaiting resurrection
'87 GN w/16.8K
"96 Bronco XLT w/351 (5.8l)
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w60 Offline
Senior Member
#4
So you can do the REAR calipers like every other caliper I've ever done and just compress them with a C-clamp even though the shop manual I have (marginal at best) says they turn?
http://www.mycoachonline.com
White 88 TC Auto Trans
White 04 Honda CR/V
Blue 74 Honda Trail 70
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Not B Anymore Offline
Administrator
#5
You can damage the parking brake mechanism if you try to just press the rear pistons back in with a c-clamp.

I have always turned them in while at the same time putting pressure on them. I used to use a socket that I ground down so that it had two nubs that would engage the sluts in the piston. I, being lazy, attached that socket to an impact wrench and turned them in that way. Took about 3 seconds!

Now I have an actual tool for turning in the pistons, but it puts pressure on the pistons while it turns them in.
Brian Leavitt
'86 TC 5-Speed -- MS2x w/COP | 83 lb. injectors | T3/T4 50 Trim Stage 3 .63AR | Full 3" Exhaust - No Cat | Motorsport FMIC | Ranger Roller | Ported E6 | Walbro 255HP | Kirban | 20psi | 120-amp 3G | 8.8" 3.55 rear | '03 Cobra Wheels
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Ramos617 Offline
Member
#6
Are the pistons supposed to turn in fairly easy?

Mine turn in but it takes a great deal of effort to get them turning
1987 T-Bird
Too much stuff to list
Running better than ever
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w60 Offline
Senior Member
#7
In addition to Ramos's question, are the pistons threaded at all or do they go in only because of pressure while you're turning?
http://www.mycoachonline.com
White 88 TC Auto Trans
White 04 Honda CR/V
Blue 74 Honda Trail 70
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Jeff K Offline
Administrator
#8
It is threaded.
Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
05 Taurus SEL Duratec daily driver
04 Taurus Duratec (wifes car)
02 Pontiac Grand Prix GT
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized
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mike schrijvers Offline
Member
#9
Mine didn't turn to easy so I bought the proper tool and it was a snap.C clamp will only cause damage


1988 TC ,silver,5speed,
1988 TC,silver, 5speed,
1988 TC,black,automatic,
1988 TC ,midnight blue, 5 speed
1988 TC,burgandy, 5speed,
1967 mercury cyclone
1974 charger
1988 TC,red,automatic,521 stroker,1,000 miles
1965 parisienne convertable, red ,automatic,140,000 miles
1970 thunderbird 2door fastback,red ,automatic,76,000 miles
1999 dodge viper RT,black,44,000 miles
2001 plymouth prowler,blue, 8,000 miles
2006 SSR ,yellow, automatic, 26,000 miles
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boboli Offline
Member
#10
You can't compress the piston. You have to screw them in and it can be a long , time consuming pain in the you know what. Try opening the bleeders and then the piston should screw in fine. Then a quick bleed of the rear brakes after you have changed the pads will correct the opening of the bleeders. This is also a good time to flush your brake fluid using the abs power to the rear brakes. Clean fluid is important to abs operation
1988 turbo tbird, 5spd, 140k, all stock except boost control valve.
1986 dodge omni glh turbo, 111k, my money pit.
1989 mustang Lx 5.0 convertible, tropical yellow/ tan interior, 1of only 144 made, 164k, aod, all stock including overheating TFI!
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