sat for 2 months, now wont start

ok i just got back after being gone for 2 months, to find my tc burried under about a foot of snow.. so i dig her out check all my fluids and attempt too start her up, it cranks over fine but wont pop. so i let it rotate for about 5 rotations, nothing i turn the key off and back on, then crank it over about 5 more rotations and then it starts to pop a little like it wants to start but it wont fire.. it was running just fine before i parked it what to you think could be causeing this?? thanks in advance.

Crank if after dark and look for spark jump.
Look for moisture inside the dist cap

ok the dist cap and rotor look good and i didnt see anything arcing out.any more ideas? thanks again

puttin out any spark at all? how bout fuel?

could too thick of oil cause a nostart?? in cold weather? last oil used was 10/30 mobil 1 synthetic and lucas oil stabalizer.. i threw a lightbulb down by the oil pan hopefully sheel start in the moreing or tomarrow after noon.

COld Weather Gremlins are a bas__rd! IN cold weather, dissimalar materials expand and shrink a different rates. Just went through this with a freinds car, and just by wiggling the wire harness, he was back in business. The cold and moisture can move pins/plugs that were just making contact, into the no touch zone. Just go through the engine compartment and give the connections you can see, a bit of a push/wiggle together, then try to start. Do all your checks, one at a time, and try to start after each one, that way you will know what caused the problem, and what to deal with later on!
Have you checked the fuel pressure bleed screw for fuel as well? Also, have you put any Gas Line Antifreeze in the car.( methyl hydrate, don't buy the small expensive bottles of "antifreeze", just buy a quart of methyl and dump in a couple of ounces every fill up. More does not hurt. I run a 5% mix of Methynol and gas in mine!Bit of an octane booster as well.)
Being an "old" hand at winter and cold starts, a light bulb, even a big heat lamp, is not going to do much to heat up the pan. Direct contact heat on the oil pan, or a block heater are the best options. THere is an oil pan heater, that has a magnet mounted in it, and sticks to the pan. MOst NAPA's and auto supplys carry them. THese work well for heating the oil. If you are in a cold, cold area, I recommend the warm oil as the best method of cold start, easy on the engine, instant oil to turbo, and a better medium for transfer of heat to the rest of the engine. I personally use a block heater and the oil pan heater combined, when in the cold areas.
YOu mentioned that its spins nicely, so I do not think the oil thickness is an issue.
THe regular no start problems/troubleshooting tips on the faqs/techs pages are a good place to start as well.
Let us know what you find!
MArtin

ok its got fuel pressure, i think because after rotating i can depress the schrader valve and fuel will spray out. and its got spark at all 4 plugs. could a bad battery cause it to not start?? it only rotates to about 200 rpms? and it sounds like it wants to start but wont stay running.

If your geting spark and it's in time, I don't think the battery is the problem. Have you checked cam and ignition timing. Maybe cam timing slipped. Did you wiggle the connectors like Bob suggested?

yes i wiggled the connectors, i havnt checked the cam/ignition yet but your probably right ill go and check as soon as it stops snowing hehe. i think the the timeing belt was a little worn. maby, the cam was froze stiff? and the initial crank jumped the belt a tooth or 2????

ok its in time and it has fuel and spark..
only thing i havnt checked is compression..
when i parked it, there wasnt much fuel in the tank, could the gas be wattered down??? whats the best way to drain the tank? should i unhook the fuel filter and run the pump from the from the eec test?? then fill it up with fresh fuel? or could i just put 5 gallons or so of fresh 92??
with out draining the tank. thanks much