North American Turbocoupe Organization



Rust treatment & prevention?
RC Martin Offline
Posting Freak
#1
Until recently I was happy to brag about my 84 TC being rust free. Sadly, I discovered a rust spot on the rear driver's side quarter panel beside the tailpipe that has started (2 pics). I'm guessing that exhaust hitting the paint to be the cause for the paint to deteriorate, I took a picture of the opposite side of the car and it checks out okay (1 pic).

Also, I can see little orange rusty residue hints that are around the bottom of my doors where the sheetmetal is folded over (1 pic). It's nowhere near a problem but I would really like to kill it before it does spread.

What's best to kill the lower quarterpanel rust? Just sanding, primer, and paint? Any ideas for preventing the doors from rusting? I was thinking of cleaning them up really well and letting them dry, and putting a tiny bead of silicone on the fold to seal out water & mud.

Any input would be appreciated, sorry if this is a no-brainer question for some.

http://img9.imageshack.us/gal.php?g=dsc01593oy.jpg
Thunderbird Turbo Coupe, Bright Canyon Red TuTone, Desert Tan Interior; 1 of 7 in this combo in 1984 according to Marti.  1 of 13,361 TCs in 84.
   Rebuilt, 3-Angle Valve Job, SYB37 "OE/Small" Slider Cam
   Full 3" Stinger Exhaust to Flowmaster 40, Gnari FMIC/Recirc/BPV, MBC @ 18psi, RF-E6 Manifold, Remote-Mount TFI, PC1 and Flowed 35# Injectors, Inline Walboro 255HP, Kirban AFPR
   Rebuilt Suspension -- KYB & Energy Suspension
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5.0TurboCoupe1988 Offline
Posting Freak
#2
sand, primer and refinish. there is a product available that will change the surface rust into black primer. i can't remember the name....someone will chime in i'm sure.

don't silicone the bottom of the doors. you want any water allowed in by the the dew wipers to drain through the drain holes in the bottom of the door.
1988 TC 2.3/5-Speed, 148K
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RC Martin Offline
Posting Freak
#3
Ahh that makes sense. So no way of preventing that door rust? Undecided

I did find an old post that said POR-15 was good, but I couldn't tell if that was a stand alone finish or if it was meant to be painted over.
Thunderbird Turbo Coupe, Bright Canyon Red TuTone, Desert Tan Interior; 1 of 7 in this combo in 1984 according to Marti.  1 of 13,361 TCs in 84.
   Rebuilt, 3-Angle Valve Job, SYB37 "OE/Small" Slider Cam
   Full 3" Stinger Exhaust to Flowmaster 40, Gnari FMIC/Recirc/BPV, MBC @ 18psi, RF-E6 Manifold, Remote-Mount TFI, PC1 and Flowed 35# Injectors, Inline Walboro 255HP, Kirban AFPR
   Rebuilt Suspension -- KYB & Energy Suspension
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qumanchew Offline
Member
#4
Check out www.eastwood.com. Go halfway down the page on the left and click on Rust Solutions. I have used a lot of there products with good results. They have a few products for converting rust. They sell por-15 but I wouldn't recomend it for a cosmetic surface. It does work good for sealing a surface but can be a little trickey to top coat, but thats just my opinion.
87 tbird 5 speed with 3.73, 255 pump, kirban, large front mount, custom rotated upper, AC & pwr steering gone, .48 T3, ported E6, 3" DP. Shelf: T3T4
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junkedturbo Offline
Senior Member
#5
Ok you can never get rid of rust, I don't care what you drive or do to it by the end of the cars time it will rust.

Theres rust proffing if you want to slow it down but thats all it will do, the same with the anti rust primer.

Cars from the day they come off the line begain to rust because of weather, really the only way to have your car not rust is to baby and leave it in a heated car port all the time.

Temp change will promote rust, salt will speed up the process, and if you get abit more then sufice rust your better off replacing the whole pic.

Alot of times I think people get confused when buying a TC when it comes to rust. They all have rust unless you drove it off the factory an stored it in a heated area, I can tell you anyone who strips there car down to bear metal will have even the slit bit of rust some were.

Even just taking the car out for a short spin in fair weather once in awhile will promote rust. My grandpa has a 68 camaro, tube chassis with the only OEM pic being the shell. Does high 8s all motor but even with a fresh factory paint job, being stored in a heated car port and only touching Route 66 pavement were seeing paint chips which in time will start to rust Sad

TCs are all over 20years old, if you were looking for a completly rust free car this is not were to start. Funny the Ford creaters already know this but sadly theres no way of fixing it Sad

Moister is the killer, you can seal your car all you want but unless you strip your car down a seal every bit of metal rust will still come in the future.

The only true way to keep are cars rust free is to cut out the infected pic and weld in a new one or just replace the whole thing.

If there was a fix I would have tryed it, but if I showed you the pics of my TC they would say other wise. Think my car got a bit of sufice rust so what did the last owner do, he sanded it down to the bare metal then repainted the whole car and still rust comes just now putting holes into the body of my TC Sad

I have yet to ever hear of a magic coating that kills rust Rolleyes

I would encourge anyone to challange me with this but warn you I'm backed in this theory by geneva body shop, Don Mccue Chev body shop, and the rust prof experts at J&R auto Salon...

Sorry to dissapoint you but if you want to fix the rust on your car you'll just have to start over with new parts and a pro. paint job (not Macco)
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RC Martin Offline
Posting Freak
#6
Thanks for the eastwood link.

junkedturbo-- as discouraging as it may be, that is pretty discouraging. lol.
Thunderbird Turbo Coupe, Bright Canyon Red TuTone, Desert Tan Interior; 1 of 7 in this combo in 1984 according to Marti.  1 of 13,361 TCs in 84.
   Rebuilt, 3-Angle Valve Job, SYB37 "OE/Small" Slider Cam
   Full 3" Stinger Exhaust to Flowmaster 40, Gnari FMIC/Recirc/BPV, MBC @ 18psi, RF-E6 Manifold, Remote-Mount TFI, PC1 and Flowed 35# Injectors, Inline Walboro 255HP, Kirban AFPR
   Rebuilt Suspension -- KYB & Energy Suspension
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junkedturbo Offline
Senior Member
#7
When you get the rust sneeze"temp" cleaned off make sure when ever you wash you TC to dry off the door jams, thats how rust forms there so fast.

RC Martin-- I do incourage you though to prov me wrong. lol.
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novaman Offline
Junior Member
#8
You need 3 things to make rust, oxygen,moister, metal,remove any one of the 3 and rust cannot form. Just my 2 cents. JB
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Sophosis Offline
Member
#9
At the shop, I use a product from MasterSeries called Permanent Rust Sealer (I just call it silver).. the name may be advertising, but I like the product. http://www.nomorerust.com It's more/less POR15's competitor. It's a moisture curing urethane, which is why they refer to it as MCU sometimes. It's got aluminum content to help seal out moisture. This stuff is LOADS easier to work with and is not UV susceptible. It's topcoatable, recoatable, and sandable. With any rust product, it's important to follow their instructions.

There's a couple rust converters that I know of.. one is Marhyde. I've used it before.. didn't like it.

The deal with the doors sucks.. mine wasn't very pretty. I did what I could with it but eventually, it's going to rust through the outer door skin. The key, I think, is not the underside of the door or really even the door pinch itself. I think water settles in that fold from the inside of the door. Next time I crack open the door panels, I'm going to clean out the crack really good and coat it with some silver. Make sure to leave the drain holes open, as stated.
1988 Turbo Coupe
- 0.020 Diamonds w/stock rods, T3 w/stock IC, BoPort 1.5 cam, LA3 w/QH on MAF, water/meth
- 5-lug swap, 31-spline, 4.10s, vacuum brakes, PBR front brakes, 2000 Mustang GT 17" rims
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junkedturbo Offline
Senior Member
#10
Your better off getting another door rust free and starting from there, with the amount of time and money the cheaper and best route would be just that Rolleyes

I just don't want to see some one sanding down the rust on there car and find out there about to put a hole through it Sad

Remember when removing rust you have to get every bit of it inside and out, if the rust has spread to the weld points in the door IDK.

New cars are no longer welded together, there glued together making these things much easyier. Alot of body shops if you ask around don't like messing with rust because it just come back or if you sand it all away you hope you didn't weaken or put a hole in the frame.

I'm not trying to discourge you I just don't want to see you go though the same stuff I went though then 2years later you find more rust. Really save your self alot of time and gref, just start over with a rust free door Big Grin
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