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I was looking at putting the gauge where my clock is on my 88. I was wondering since I need a 12 volt feed does the clock supply enough key on power to run the gauge? I gotta figure out how to mount it in there nicey nice.
88 5 speed TC
-3" DP,lowered, 255 Walbro, Gillis valve, Cobra R's, bondo/rust, Stinger's PIMP Ecu
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Actually just noticed in the directions of the AEM wideband I need
Quote:RED <Power>
Connect to a switched 10-18 volt power source utilizing a 10A fuse.
I cant recall but what does the clock support for a fuse? Im sure it must have some kind of memory wire to retain the time and also some main 12 volt feed like a car radio?
Quote:BLACK <Ground>
Connect to a clean power ground.
Wondering what they mean by clean?
Quote:*WHITE <Analog Output>
Connects to any auxiliary unit that accepts a 0-5 volt input
Im guessing this is the wire thats supposed to go to the PIMP down the road if I manage to order one.
88 5 speed TC
-3" DP,lowered, 255 Walbro, Gillis valve, Cobra R's, bondo/rust, Stinger's PIMP Ecu
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Joe F
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Joined:
Jul 2002
Hawkins, Texas - USA
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(1) The clock is on a fuse; don't remember what size but it probably doesn't have 10 amps "spare". The wideband needs a fair amount of current to power the sensor heater. You'll probably want to connect it up on it's own fuse. Electrically that's probably better anyway to help isolate the wideband electronics.
(2) "Clean" is an term meaning not noisy from an electrical point of view. IOW not a bunch of impulse noise, i.e. plug noise, alternator noise, etc. Best bet is a good chassis ground.
(3) Correct.
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Pete D
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Joined:
Apr 2001
Northern OH
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The EVTM shows the clock being on fuse #8 which is suppose to be a 15 amp fuse.
Pete Dunham
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Joe F Wrote:(1) The clock is on a fuse; don't remember what size but it probably doesn't have 10 amps "spare". The wideband needs a fair amount of current to power the sensor heater. You'll probably want to connect it up on it's own fuse. Electrically that's probably better anyway to help isolate the wideband electronics.
(2) "Clean" is an term meaning not noisy from an electrical point of view. IOW not a bunch of impulse noise, i.e. plug noise, alternator noise, etc. Best bet is a good chassis ground.
(3) Correct.
Good point about the power wire..Im trying to think where I can get power from that would have Key ON only power so its not on all the time.
88 5 speed TC
-3" DP,lowered, 255 Walbro, Gillis valve, Cobra R's, bondo/rust, Stinger's PIMP Ecu
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Pete D Wrote:The EVTM shows the clock being on fuse #8 which is suppose to be a 15 amp fuse.
Is that clock the only thing being powered by that fuse? I highly doubt it but if it was. I could retain factory wires and swap the fuse for a 10 AMP.
88 5 speed TC
-3" DP,lowered, 255 Walbro, Gillis valve, Cobra R's, bondo/rust, Stinger's PIMP Ecu
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