Roasted Rack, Part Deux

Okay, well I've decided I'm going to rebild my p/s pump and replace all my line while I''m in the process of yanking my rack out again. Only problem is I need to drive this thing to the shop to work on it. To keep from making the pump any worse I want to bypass the pulley with a shorter belt. Can anyone tell me how long of a belt I'm going to need?

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87 TC 5-speed Black, loaded. 17psi, G3 alternator, KB subs, Grant steering wheel, custom greasable swaybar bushings, K&N. Soon to have KB Trackit Axle brackets, Maximum Motorsports lower control arms, T-3, Saab intercooler, ranger roller cam Gen1 DSM BOV and rebuilt front suspension.

I'm not sure you can bypass the PS pump. The way the belt is routed, it must go around the PS pump and come UNDER the tensioner then to the Alternator, Water Pump, Crank.

If it goes from Crank to Alternator to Water Pump the tensioner would not be able to be utilized...

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88TC 5spd, Shortblock with Crower 5.5" Sportsman Rods and Short Wiseco Pistons bored .030" Over, Ported Head with Polished Combustion Chambers, Gutted & Polished Upper, Ported & Polished Lower, Polished T/B, Ported E6, SVO T3 Turbo, 3" DP w/No Cat, RR Cam, Adjustable Cam Sprocket, K&N in Fenderwell, Gillis Boost Valve, Centerforce I Clutch, Removed A/C, Polished Wheels, Polished Valve Cover, Polished Crank and W/P Pullies, and the DAMN Heater Core is new too !