North American Turbocoupe Organization



Riddle me this Bird-man!
TeamEntity Offline
Member
#1
Since i bought my tc.. i can't find the o.e. and thats right.. the o..e wheel lock.. well.. the new tires are on there way.. and if i cannot find the lock.. i was thinking of cutting the lock off and getting a new set.. any other ideas.. and i don't take stuff to get done.. just wondering.. never did this before.. Thanks.
Honest and sincere.. NO B.S. From me.
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tps87turbo Offline
Posting Freak
#2
There should be a sticker that the dealer places on the inside of the spare tire over with the McGuard key code. You can take that to anyone who sells McGuard wheel locks to get a replacement key. You could also search the web to see if they have a support line to call & order a replacement key. Good Luck.

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Tony Sceia -

HIS - Red 88 TC, Med Red with Raven Leather & every option, Walbro 255, 3" SS Downpipe with Magnaflow Dual SS 2.5 Cat Back system, 3-core Radiator, Star Stage 3 Clutch, Rebuilt T-5 Tranny, 4:10 rear, 140 MPH Speedo, New Paint, Headlights, Refinished Snowflakes & New Tires.

HERS - Blue 87 TC, fully loaded with every option, Gilies Valve, K & N Filter, 3-core Radiator...just needs a little body work & a new paint job.

87 TC - Bought as a Parts Car, & will remain a parts car now that I found the blue one.
Tony Sceia -

HIS Red 88 TC
http://turbotbird.com/showroom/data_r-z/...a_88tc.php
HERS - Blue 87 TC, fully loaded with every option, Work in Progress
87 Gray TC Parts Car - Gave to BJL and is now his daily driver
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rairbird Offline
Senior Member
#3
A not highly recommended, last resort, but proven method, that I have used on parts cars, was to beat on the lock guard, side to side, with a small sledge, until it loosened. You might want to, have to, replace the stud when done.

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87 T/C, 5sp., Hardened Crank, Crower Sportsman Rods, J.E. full floating pistons, .030 over, Total Seal rings, Head and Main studs, Ported/Polished head, 1.89, 1.59 S.S Valves. Motorsport Lifters, A-234 cam, Fidanza Adj. cam sprocket, ported polished lower, gutted upper intake, Rod's S/S headers, 3" DP, T3/T04E 46, Gillis BCV, Forge Bypass, K&N Air Filter, Kirban Adj. FPR, Walbro 255 FP., 42# inj., EEC-Tuner. Still have to mount the GN I/C.
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SteveX82 Offline
Posting Freak
#4
Go to Sears (or anywhere that sells similar tools) and buy one of their little kits to remove rounded off nuts. They're basically large sockets with a reverse-thread interior. Just start screwing one of the proper size on and, unless the lock was severely overtightened, it should break loose pretty easily.

If you don't think you'd ever get a chance to use the other sockets included in the kit, you could alwyas just buy a specialy wheel-lock removal tool from pep boys or something.

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Estoril blue 1987 TC 5spd, 146k miles, a237, Bailey BOV, spec stg3 clutch, spearco FMIC, t3/t4 50 trim / stage III .63, 3" exhaust, eec-tuner, lm1 wb, 55pph injectors
Best 1/4 mile: 12.89 @ 106mph on 25psi, 1.78 60'
Estoril blue 1987 TC 5spd, 148k mi, a237, Bailey BOV, spec stg3 clutch, spearco FMIC, 50 trim t3/t4, 3" exhaust, Bamafuel, LM1, 55pph
Best 1/4 mile: 12.31 @ 110mph on 25psi
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TeamEntity Offline
Member
#5
yeah.. i know of the removal tools.. but thought instead of buying that i would just dremmel each end.. and just knock em off that way..
Honest and sincere.. NO B.S. From me.
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martin0660 Offline
Posting Freak
#6
Quote:Originally posted by TeamEntity:
yeah.. i know of the removal tools.. but thought instead of buying that i would just dremmel each end.. and just knock em off that way..

I tried it that way once...not very sucessful [Image: wink.gif] Once I did get some flats on it, I couldnt get vice grips to bite at an angle that I could get leverage. The wheel is too deep, and they hit the outer face.

We tried the tools intended to get these off by grabbing them from the outside at a tire shop, but they seemed to hard for the tool to bite. I bought one of these sockets, and they work grat for those chrome caps that fall off of other OEM lugnuts.

Each dealer was supposed to have a McGuard (OEM) "master" kit on hand, but it seems they disappeared from the dealers around me. I thought I was told there were only 8 keys, but could be wrong on this.

If the original owner actually registered with McGuard, you can call a "800" number with your VIN, and have a key sent to you. I was told that the registration rate was less then 25%.

What I ended up doing was to plug weld an old lug nut to the end of the locks, and spun them off quick while it was still hot. This was actually really simple once we got the power cranked up.

Bob Myers
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Walsted Offline
Posting Freak
#7
Walsted's method -

Get cheap socket that almost fits over lock

Use mallet to convince socket to go over lock

Use breaker bar in socket

Works easily, but the socket and locking lug are real hard to separate.

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Mike Walsted - NATO member
1986 5-speed TurboCoupe with a few upgrades.
Mike Walsted - Sold my 1986 5-speed TurboCoupe
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TeamEntity Offline
Member
#8
yeah. i thought of that too.. but did not think of the welding part.. we used to use 18mm or so.. sockets on the mustang lugs.. but not sure what these are yet..
Honest and sincere.. NO B.S. From me.
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bybowtie Offline
Senior Member
#9
21 or 22 mm sockets work best.. Tried and true method for me no damage (except for a worked over nut) and if your careful,sometimes the sockets will split on ya, you may be able to reuse it.I did [Image: wink.gif]
Good luck.. BTW with the welding version if you use the wrong weld or dont get good penetration through the chromoly then you may end up with a FEW busted knuckle, and a whole lot of frustration.
So whats your point?
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TeamEntity Offline
Member
#10
nice.. it's been a while. but would you believe that one shop wanted only 45 bucks to do that job and install the new tires and balance and stems. and another wanted 114.00 and the 114.00 is a major chain.. lol
Honest and sincere.. NO B.S. From me.
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