North American Turbocoupe Organization



rich running....still
Michael Jordan Offline
Senior Member
#1
Well guys, this just never ends. I checked the BP sensor and it was fine. I pulled codes again and I think I got rid of the 22 in KOER but still get 25, 42 (of course) and 77. I'm not sure about the 22 and 77 because they may be due to Operator Error. I'll pull codes again tonite. Average gas mileage, about 15 city/highway. Sometimes it pumps out black smoke and sometimes it doesn't, but runs like a pig most of the time. Still boosts fine but stumbles on occasion. After it's warmed up, it has trouble idling when I stop, then will come up to 1K rpm if it doesn't stall completely. When that does happen, I'll start it up and it settles right on 1K rpm. Is this the TPS going south? I recently cleaned the IAC and adjusted the TPS.

Did the fuel system diagnostics and if my gauge is correct, it's pushing 70 psi at idle, I know, way too high (I will check again tonite with engine off and pump jumpered). When I drove, the fuel pressure either stayed around 70 or went below during boost. This all seems to be pointing to my Fuel Pressure Regulator because the rich running started right after I put the Walbro 255 in.

I've searched and read just about everthing but looking for a little guidance.

HELP!!

MJ
1986 TC stock with full option package. K&N, DIY boost valve at 14 psi, Walbro 255.
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Jeff K Offline
Administrator
#2
Yup, 70 psi is WAAAAAY too high..... that is for sure the cause of your rich problem! Either the FPR is bad, or there is a kink / blockage in the return line, possibly inside the tank. First thing to try is a new FPR.
25 always shows up unless you give the intake a good hit with a wrench, etc to exercize the knock sensor.

77 is operator error. You didnt do a WOT goose to get the RPM over 3000 - 4000 to exercize the TPS and VAF.
Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
05 Taurus SEL Duratec daily driver
04 Taurus Duratec (wifes car)
02 Pontiac Grand Prix GT
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized
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Michael Jordan Offline
Senior Member
#3
Is it worth my money to get the Kirban AFPR or just stick with a stock replacement? Can the stock FPR handle the new fuel pump?

What am I doing wrong to keep getting that 77 code? When it comes time to goose the throttle, I think I'm doing it at the right time. Is there some trick to doing this?

MJ
1986 TC stock with full option package. K&N, DIY boost valve at 14 psi, Walbro 255.
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Pete D Offline
Administrator
#4
If you are not going to exceed about 280-300 HP on the stock injectors, you don't really need the Kirban. The stock FPR will handle the pump.
Pete Dunham


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Michael Jordan Offline
Senior Member
#5
Thanks Pete. Now for the final question. Can I get the Sorensen that Advance Auto has
(20 bucks) or is it advisible to get the Motorcraft? I'd really like to do this tonite.

MJ
1986 TC stock with full option package. K&N, DIY boost valve at 14 psi, Walbro 255.
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Pete D Offline
Administrator
#6
Michael, Of couse you can get the Sorenson. The real question is "Do you feel lucky, well do ya?"

I just bought one from NAPA (Echlen) Don't remember the price
Pete Dunham


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Michael Jordan Offline
Senior Member
#7
I hear ya Pete. Since you put it that way, it's probably worth the $56 price tag.

Ya get what ya pay for.

MJ
1986 TC stock with full option package. K&N, DIY boost valve at 14 psi, Walbro 255.
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