North American Turbocoupe Organization



revving on, and on, and on...
dlphnfn Offline
Junior Member
#1
Hi guys,
I've been having an ongoing problem that seems to get worse as the weather gets better... My 88 is revving high every now and then. It may be something like Dan E was having about a year ago, but not sure. I can normally turn the engine off at a stop sign a few minutes from home, and restart, and it will run fine then. I normally let it sit in the garage running for a minute before I actually leave, but the first couple miles are only 35mph anyway... Well, just wondering if this is a potential open loop prob with the la3 or if I should be looking more toward the vam.
Possibly unrelated, but it seems to get quite warm when it does that for an extended period of time.
Any help appreciated!!
Erick --

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88 Turbo Coupe - K&N Cone, but other than that, completely stock and love it!
2001 Cougar - Wife's car.
88 Turbo Coupe - K&N Cone, but other than that, completely stock and love it!
2000 Contour SVT - My new car.
2001 Explorer - Wife's.
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Pete D Offline
Administrator
#2
Have you pulled the codes? What did you get.
Have you checkd the TPS?
Pete Dunham


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dlphnfn Offline
Junior Member
#3
I haven't pulled the codes yet Pete. I need to buy a scanner yet.
I replaced the TPS not more than 2 years ago. I'm sure it could have crapped out though. Would a TPS typically act like that?
Generally I can get the idle down by restarting my car. I just thought it was odd that it would act like that. I'll try to pull the codes and get back to you. Thanks,
Erick --
88 Turbo Coupe - K&N Cone, but other than that, completely stock and love it!
2000 Contour SVT - My new car.
2001 Explorer - Wife's.
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Pete D Offline
Administrator
#4
A bad TPS can do strange things. I had a case where idle would go high, stop and restart engine, would be OK for awhile, but "awhile" was getting shorter and shorter. In this case it turned out to be the TPS but that isn't the universal solution to all high or irratic idle problems. That's why pulling the codes and checking the TPS offer information that may narrow the possibilities

If you bought a disconunt brand TPS, I would say it is more likely to go bad in 2 years than if yo bought a Ford or NAPA part.

I doubt that it is a computer problem. It can happen but it's rare. Any other cause is probably more likely.

[This message has been edited by Pete D (edited 04-28-2004).]
Pete Dunham


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GlassRooster Offline
Senior Member
#5
My TPS is fine but still happens to me every now and then.. Not the best answer but I just turn the key off and on real quick and it resets to a normal idle and I dont have to restart the car ?? If it works use it lol
David

87 TC Faded Burgundy with faded red interior
K&N and cold air ducting- rest is bone stock
02 Mazda Protege 5 Replaced Dead Saturn
99 Cougar- Wife's car new body style now Discontinued.
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PetzJC Offline
Senior Member
#6
Another symptom of a faulty TPS is when you push in the clutch and let off the throttle, it takes an abnormally long time for the engine RPM's to drop to Idle. Sometimes turning the key off and restarting clears it.

Also, a TPS on a 5-spd car will not last as long as with an automatic....think about it....during "normal" driving, you are moving the throttle for every shift!!....whereas on an automatic the throttle is somewhat constant. I am on my fifth TPS!!

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88 Silver T/C, original owner, 252,000 miles
Loaded except leather & auto trans
K&N, Gillis, SVO roller #1, big SS valves, ported intake, head, & exhaust
Polyurethane bushings throughout, Goodyear GT-HR 235/55R16's
Former owner of 88 Silver T/C, loaded (except leather & A/T), original owner, 294,815 miles!!!
K&N, Gillis(18 psi), SVO roller #1, big SS valves, ported intake, head, & exhaust.
Short block & turbo original/untouched, spec-II/III clutch combo.
Polyurethane bushings throughout, Goodyear GT-HR 235/55R16
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segfaultxr7 Offline
Posting Freak
#7
Whenever that happens with mine, it's the TPS. Tromping the pedal to the floor about 20 times in a row (with the engine off of course) seems to un-stick it for a few weeks.
88 TC 5-speed
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Dan E Offline
Posting Freak
#8
Mine turned out to be a bad VAM. If you have another one you can swap in...and see if it changes the idle problem.

I've also found that if I don't let my TC warm up and then settle in at around 1,000rpm idle then the idle seems to stick high. Ever notice that when you first start it it idles around 1,800rpm then after a minute or two the idles drops (after it reaches operating temp) ? If I start mine and don't wait until the idle drops then it sticks high. If I wait, then there is no problem (I should say less of a problem).

Someone else can explain about open-loop vs. closed-loop and the ECT and VAF at different temps.... [Image: rolleyes.gif]


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Dan Eaves
88TC 5spd, Crower 5.5" Sportsman Rods, Short Wiseco Pistons bored .030" Over, Ported Head with Polished Combustion Chambers, Gutted & Polished Upper, Ported & Polished Lower, Polished T/B, Ported E6, SVO T3 .63AR Turbo, Bosch Bypass Valve, 3" DP w/No Cat, 2 1/2" DynoMax single cat back w/DynoMax Super Turbo Muffler, RR Cam, K&N in Fenderwell, Gillis Boost Valve, Centerforce I Clutch, Removed A/C, Polished Wheels, Polished Valve Cover, Polished Crank and W/P Pulleys, Walbro 255LPH HP Pump, Kirban Adj FPR, and the DAMN Heater Core is new too !

NATO MEMBER (Vice Chairman...if it's a vice...I deal with it)
Dan Eaves
88TC 5spd Vermillion Red, Polished...everything...
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