North American Turbocoupe Organization



replacing lower control arms.
bang4thebuck Offline
Senior Member
#1
How hard is it to replace the lower control arms? any tips?? also are the ones from a 3.8 car the same? I know the rear is a different size but what about the lower control arms?
1987 TC 5 speed. To date: AGP 50 trim T3/T4 .63 stage 2 turbo, Ebay bov, 28psi, 255hp pump, Kirban FPR, Ebay Front mount, Full 3 inch Exhaust, Ported Bob's Log, Megasquirt, 55lb. injectors, boport 1.5 cam, boxed lower control arms, Methanol Kit, Ram HD Clutch, front lowered 1/2 inch and E.T. Streets for the track. Best so far 12.5 at 110.8. still tuning.
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Huey866 Offline
Posting Freak
#2
Front control arms on the 3.8's are the same (thats what Im using)

If your talking about the front control arms. Its not really bad. The tools that I recommend is a picklefork (balljoint seperation tool)and an impact wrench. If you dont have an impact wrench, then a piece of pipe about 4 feet long to slide over your ratchet. Also rent a spring compressor (the kind that goes inside and grabs the spring from the inside.)

Im going to go step by step. Dont know if you need it that way or what you know about cars, but somone else might find it handy. I have done this once and can do it in about 3 hours (both sides start to finish) with no power tool of anykind.

Support on jackstands (you will be hammering on the suspension so no one wheeled car-jack stuff here)
Remove the wheel, caliper (zip tie up out of the way), bearing cover, cotter pin, locking cover, nut, inner bearing, and last rotor.
Use a 3/8s socket to remove the three nuts holding the dust shield on and hang it off to the side.
Remove the cottor pin off the castle nut on the ball joint.
Crawl under the car and loosen the slip joint connecting the steering wheel to the power steering rack.
Loosen the two bolts on the power steering rack, pry it off, and set on top of the bushing shells. (This is to keep you from tearing a boot like I did when removing and replacing the bolt.)
Use the spring compressor to compress the spring.
Then use the impact/cheater bar to break the bolts loose.
Put the picklefork between the spindle and the control arm.
Hammer on the fork to seperate the parts.
Remove the control arm to subframe bolts.
Pry on the lower control arm to remove from the subframe.
87 TurboCoupe - silver, 137k, 5-speed, 3.73, 5 lug swap, MM... Evertything, 03 Cobra Brakes, Griggs Subframe connectors, Bo 1.5, Big Valves, massaged 79 turbo head, Essy Cam Gear, Boblog + Elbow, .63 T-3, Stinger Exhaust/FMIC

Currently dreaming about ball-bearings and Pimps
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bang4thebuck Offline
Senior Member
#3
eep... I meant the Lower control arms for the rear of the car. sorry for the confusion.
1987 TC 5 speed. To date: AGP 50 trim T3/T4 .63 stage 2 turbo, Ebay bov, 28psi, 255hp pump, Kirban FPR, Ebay Front mount, Full 3 inch Exhaust, Ported Bob's Log, Megasquirt, 55lb. injectors, boport 1.5 cam, boxed lower control arms, Methanol Kit, Ram HD Clutch, front lowered 1/2 inch and E.T. Streets for the track. Best so far 12.5 at 110.8. still tuning.
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turbo d Offline
Member
#4
Having converted over to coil overs, I plan on making a set of these:
http://www.jonaadland.com/Z28/Mods/LCA/A...mLCAs.html

I had a set of these but sold them to a member on here:
http://www.maximummotorsports.com/index....cts_id=677

There is also a company called CHE that sells a decent looking set. Do some searching and you'll find what you need.
Good Luck
Darrell
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