North American Turbocoupe Organization



Removing ABS master questions
TurboDerek Offline
Member
#11
I used an Autozone booster and master cyl from a 93 gt stang. this came with three holes on the master, two on the side and one on the bottem for the brake pressure switch. That hole is located right under one of the others, so I used those 2 for the front brakes and the single line for the back. Works great


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88 TC 5 spd, grey, 93k, sunroof, Spec stage 3, B&M ripper short throw, RW adj cam gear, Bosch BPV, Warblo 255lph hp, kirban afpr,9in k&n, gutted intakes, 18psi with gillis, full 3in exhaust, 245-50's all around
87 TC 5spd, light blue 139k, stock only mod ABS delete and vacuum booster in place
88 TC 5 spd, bb t3/t4 50 trim@23psi, bob log and intakes, fm gn intercooler, Spec stage 3, B&M ripper short throw, RW adj cam gear, Bosch BPV, Warblo 255lph hp, kirban afpr,9in k&n, full 3in exhaust, 245-50's all around nittos in back
87 TC 5spd, light blue 139k, stock only mod ABS delete and vacuum booster in place
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RK87TC Offline
Member
#12
Quote:Originally posted by 67goingthing:
Well the "T" is standard 1/8" as well as the line for the front brakes. You will have to cut the lines to fit so just use the original nuts coming out of the prop valve. From the master to the prop I just used the old nuts with new lines. As far as the back brakes, using the same nut again you will need a 3/16 brake line and then you can just splice it in with a compression union (also use one for the right front brake line). Clear as mud? If you have any other questions don't hesitate to ask.

ok...thanks a lot. Guess I didn't mention that I ruined the nut for the one short front brake line trying to get it out of the ABS system. Looks like I have to practice up on my brake line flaring skills and actually do some real work here then!! That isn't so bad but I thought there was some way to buy a few fittings and couple pieces of brake line and be done in 15 minutes...I'm always trying to find the simplest easiest way to do something. Hopefully will be able to report that all is well and brakes working in a day or so, thanks a lot for the help.
87 TC MM k-member package, EVM 3link/watts, Ess. d-port, 2277 solid cam, T3/04E 63 stg3/60, Spec III clutch, alum. flywheel, Stinger header-3" exhaust-FMIC-SDS-gillis valve, Cobra 17" polished wheels, moon roof, 5spd, K&N cone, 110 alt., 93 cobra MC/Booster, Steeda shifter.
Ralph
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67goingthing Offline
Junior Member
#13
NAPA has the correct lines and nuts to fit your car. Just take your old line with you. Be aware though that the lines going into the master are a conical flare. They have those so it will save you some trouble. The prop valve just takes a standard double flare. Conical flare on one end and standard double flare on the other end.
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