#1 |
---15 Aug 07---I'm adding in my own edits on what I found to work.
Did a search and didn't come up with anything specific on this. I want to get rid of all this extra wiring that I'm not using so that it simplifies the wiring I have to look at for future fixes and take out that extra little bit of weight.
I know there are several guys who have done this and I wanted to know if there are any wires within either system that have to have something done to them so the car will still work. Like splicing back in somewhere or something like that.
I got the amp and its harness pulled out but that had it's own connector and just came out in one piece from the dash back.
I got both the ABS and PRC computers out and pulled the harness up to the firewall.
The next step is to actually cut some wires in the engine bay-that's where I'm losing my nerve.
1.the two relays under the vacuum tree do they need to stay for the rest of the system to work. One is abs motor relay and other is main power relay. ***I cut these loose and no problems.***
2.The part that looks like the most dangerous is the two relays and the big O/Y wire.
And then there is the GY/R one. ****clipped and no problem***
3.Also there is a gray 4 prong round plug on the drivers side that comes out of the firewall, on the engine side of the harness there is a diode there. Would like to know what would happen if I just unplugged that one.*****clipped all but the GY/Y wire here no problem****
4.There is a connector right at EEC in the kickpanel and that is where the test wires go to.
5.They other tough part is what I can cut out of the fusible links. Of the few wires I have left several run into the fusible link with all the gray wires in it.****gray wires here are all grounds so no problem as far as I can tell*****
From what I've gotten so far, it really shouldn't be that tough to do, there are only a few things a guy has to be careful of. I started this on one other car by cutting out wires...immediate no start situation...that car may never run...lol
So have been going over wiring diagrams 'till I'm about nuts but I did slowly get some things figured out.
6.The PRC & EEC are linked through O/W wire pin #28 on the PRC and pin #35 on EEC. Since this is a direct link between the two and the car still runs without the PRC computer I'd guess this wire is ok to cut.
7.Also C299, its the gray 4pin plug by the wiper motor-it looks like the only wire there that needs to be saved is the GY/Y wire as it runs back over to EEC I believe.
8. Looks to me like you need to keep the speed sensor box plugged into the mix also, as from what I can tell the left side plug has the controls for the clutch safety switch.****unplugged the right side and removed all the other cruise control stuff. No problem.****
If someone who's a wiring whiz could just verify the above for me it'd help a whole bunch. If those are actually true, then this is probably not nearly so painful and risky of a job.
And guys the amount of wiring this takes out of the engine bay really cleans it up.
If you need me to clarify anything please just ask.
Did a search and didn't come up with anything specific on this. I want to get rid of all this extra wiring that I'm not using so that it simplifies the wiring I have to look at for future fixes and take out that extra little bit of weight.
I know there are several guys who have done this and I wanted to know if there are any wires within either system that have to have something done to them so the car will still work. Like splicing back in somewhere or something like that.
I got the amp and its harness pulled out but that had it's own connector and just came out in one piece from the dash back.
I got both the ABS and PRC computers out and pulled the harness up to the firewall.
The next step is to actually cut some wires in the engine bay-that's where I'm losing my nerve.
1.the two relays under the vacuum tree do they need to stay for the rest of the system to work. One is abs motor relay and other is main power relay. ***I cut these loose and no problems.***
2.The part that looks like the most dangerous is the two relays and the big O/Y wire.
And then there is the GY/R one. ****clipped and no problem***
3.Also there is a gray 4 prong round plug on the drivers side that comes out of the firewall, on the engine side of the harness there is a diode there. Would like to know what would happen if I just unplugged that one.*****clipped all but the GY/Y wire here no problem****
4.There is a connector right at EEC in the kickpanel and that is where the test wires go to.
5.They other tough part is what I can cut out of the fusible links. Of the few wires I have left several run into the fusible link with all the gray wires in it.****gray wires here are all grounds so no problem as far as I can tell*****
From what I've gotten so far, it really shouldn't be that tough to do, there are only a few things a guy has to be careful of. I started this on one other car by cutting out wires...immediate no start situation...that car may never run...lol
So have been going over wiring diagrams 'till I'm about nuts but I did slowly get some things figured out.
6.The PRC & EEC are linked through O/W wire pin #28 on the PRC and pin #35 on EEC. Since this is a direct link between the two and the car still runs without the PRC computer I'd guess this wire is ok to cut.
7.Also C299, its the gray 4pin plug by the wiper motor-it looks like the only wire there that needs to be saved is the GY/Y wire as it runs back over to EEC I believe.
8. Looks to me like you need to keep the speed sensor box plugged into the mix also, as from what I can tell the left side plug has the controls for the clutch safety switch.****unplugged the right side and removed all the other cruise control stuff. No problem.****
If someone who's a wiring whiz could just verify the above for me it'd help a whole bunch. If those are actually true, then this is probably not nearly so painful and risky of a job.
And guys the amount of wiring this takes out of the engine bay really cleans it up.
If you need me to clarify anything please just ask.
87 TC MM k-member package, EVM 3link/watts, Ess. d-port, 2277 solid cam, T3/04E 63 stg3/60, Spec III clutch, alum. flywheel, Stinger header-3" exhaust-FMIC-SDS-gillis valve, Cobra 17" polished wheels, moon roof, 5spd, K&N cone, 110 alt., 93 cobra MC/Booster, Steeda shifter.
Ralph
Ralph