North American Turbocoupe Organization



Removed Oil Fill Cap Engine Died. Now it won't Run!
JTB530 Offline
Junior Member
#1
I let my 85.5 TC idle at work the other morning for twenty minutes or so. Had the hood popped to check things out and noticed a slight leak around the fill cap. I removed it to check the seal and noticed quite a bit of vacuum. After removing the cap the car sputtered and died (I am assuming this would be a pcv issue so I have picked up a new one). Now the car will prime the pump, start and run for about thirty seconds then die and you can hear the fuel pump making a bunch of noise. Turn the key off it primes as normal, starts runs and dies. I haven't had a chance to run the codes(no check engine light or test light at the time) but I did check fuel pressure at start up near 35lbs and when it dies the gauge starts bouncing in sink with the pump noise at about 40lbs. I have a new 255lph hp pump(and three inch exhaust) which I needed to get in so this new down time will let me do that. However I don't think the problem is fuel. Could this be TFI or PIP related. I recently tuned the car up with 764 plugs, Belden wires Napa Cap and rotor. The car has 145000 on it and ran strong for me up till this point. K&N filter and gillis valve are only mods so far. I do have an LA3 and I/C that I want to get on some time but I might wait a few more paychecks for a FMIC that works with A/C. Any help with the running issues will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance,
Jason
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Pete D Offline
Administrator
#2
I don't think removing the oil fill cap has anything to do with your problem. Removing the cap is like a big vacuum leak letting unmetered air into the system.And it isn't abnormal to stumble maybe even stall. If you replace the PCV, use ONLY the FORD PART (Ford P/N: E5ZZ-6A666-A, The Motorcraft box will also have EV-127-A on it). You may need to stop it from leaking when in place.

A noisy fuel pump is a problem. Generally that is a sure sign it is on the way out. Run the fuel system diagnostics or if you got the next pump, just put it in. Be sure to change the fuel filter also. I won't say that the TFI ot PIP might not be a problem, but you need to resolve the fuel issues and then see where your at. I wouldn't start replacing ignition parts without more justification than yoiu have so far.

I would recommend getting this isuue straightened out before doing further mods.
Pete Dunham


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JTB530 Offline
Junior Member
#3
The fuel pump only gets noisy after the engine stalls. Should it even continue to run after the engine has died? I don't know what the pump is doing other than at idle and I'm sure it's weak after twenty years so that is getting changed for sure. However the pressure doesn't drop at all when the car dies so I don't think it's a lack of fuel killing it. As for the oil cap I understand that its pulling air so I have a motorcraft pcv in hand to put on it. Thanks again
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JTB530 Offline
Junior Member
#4
Ok I checked and cleaned the Egr & IAC. Set base idle which was way off. The car wouldn't run with the iac unplugged. Couple of turns on the idle screw to about 750rpm then I set the TPS at .94v. Set the base timing at 12. Checked the codes and got a 66. Started and idled better than ever so I attempted the 45 mile drive back home in it. It made it 35 of them flawlessly. Then after a bit of a spirited run I put the cruise on again and it started bucking and jerking. I Had to drive home hitting the clutch and revving the motor. Ran fine on hard acceleration just wouldn't pull off of cruising speed on its own. The next day I went to a buddies shop where he put the 3"DP and exhaust on with the dynaflow dumping at the axle. Then he ran the scanner on it and told me the 66 was a vam code. I have two extra vams in my spair parts so I got one out and put it on. The car is doing great now. However the vam I put on is a big vam and the old one was a small one I have noticed some slight pinging which I assume is from the big vam causing a lean condition. Higher octane will probably take care of this until I get time to do the ECM change. I already have the brown tops in the car. I have the LA3 with plug and wiring and the atc sensor. Can I use the 87/88 lower with the 85 upper or do I need to change valve covers? What are my other options for mounting the atc. I have the I/C with brackets and hoses and the 87/88 hood. What do I need to do to "clock" the turbo to work with the I/C? Is this something I need to have spair bolts in hand and if so what sizes and grades? Sorry to be a pain!! This is my daily driver 450 miles a week and I have to plan ahead for any mods or upgrades. Can't afford the down time so any help is deeply appreciated!!!
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Pete D Offline
Administrator
#5
Quote:noticed some slight pinging which I assume is from the big vam causing a lean condition. Higher octane will probably take care of this
You are correct on the bigger vam causing a lean condition. High octane is NOT going to cure a lack of fuel. It has been reported that high octane ping sounds just like low octane ping Big Grin

You can clock the turbo by loosening the bolts on the compressor housing enough so that it can be turned to where you need it then retighten the bolts. Don't need anything but a wrench to loosen the bolts. Just don't overtighten the bolts or the holes will strip out - aluminum.
Pete Dunham


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JTB530 Offline
Junior Member
#6
Good point about the octane. I guess I had better get the LA3 ready to put in this week. Thanks for all the info Pete, you've been a great help!
Jason
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