North American Turbocoupe Organization



relay / wiring difference?
xcrunnerbd Offline
Posting Freak
#1
I'm in the process of wiring in manual fan switches following the tech. article. I'm wanting to control both fans with 1 switch. The relays I'm using are from my parts car so they are Ford relays. I think they were originally the soft/hard shock relays. I'm using these so I have another relay up front for an IC fan depending on where I decide to put my front mount. My question is if there is a difference betwen the Ford and Bosch relays other than the numbers on the pins? My Ford relays are numbered 1-5. My best guess is they relate this way Ford / Bosch: 1 / 85, 2 / 86, 3 / 30, and 4,5 / 87.

When I hooked everything up, it sparked and my AC fan turned on. I also noticed that the previous owner piggy backed the AC fan to the primary fan. My AC hasn't worked for a few years so I didn't really notice that fan wasn't on. My first thought is the previous owner did this due to a faulty IRCM. I have a good IRCM but before I swap this I want to make sure I didn't mess up the relay wiring. I reconnected the wires the previous owner cut.

I haven't wired up the dash switch yet, but hooked it up like this... Main power from starter solenoid positive to relay pin #3, the primary and secondary fans to pins 4 and 5, and ground to pin #2. This is when it sparked and turned on the secondary fan (scaring me out of my skin too). I was planning on hooking my dash switch to pin #1. Do I have my wiring correct with the relay?

I kept every relay I could find from my parts car and they all are numbered like this, some have 4 terminals but most have 5.
Project 13 sec. / 30mpg in '88 TC 5Speed : 15.91@89mph / 32+ mpg

On The Car: KN cone, 2-stage Gillis@ 15psi wired to fuel switch, Kirban AFPR @ 39psi, Walbro 255 HP FP, 130A 3G Alt., Full 3" Stinger Exhaust incl. cat. no muffler,

Shelf: .48 T3, ported E6, BPV
Reply

Martin Offline
Senior Member
#2
http://351winsor.com/joel/Electrical/FP_...iagram.jpg

This is fuel pump diagram.
only difference is 4 & 5 would equate to 87 and 87A
http://www.classictruckshop.com/clubs/ea.../relay.jpg

Martin
Stock 87, no mods, Black with the grey interior.
Boost High, Fly Low
Reply

xcrunnerbd Offline
Posting Freak
#3
That is the same diagram I used to translate the pin numbers. So going by that then I have it hooked up right. I just wanted to make sure my own wiring was correct before changing the IRCM.
Project 13 sec. / 30mpg in '88 TC 5Speed : 15.91@89mph / 32+ mpg

On The Car: KN cone, 2-stage Gillis@ 15psi wired to fuel switch, Kirban AFPR @ 39psi, Walbro 255 HP FP, 130A 3G Alt., Full 3" Stinger Exhaust incl. cat. no muffler,

Shelf: .48 T3, ported E6, BPV
Reply

Tom Senior Offline
Banned
#4
Never run a fan that is controlled with an external mechanical switch. You nead to repair the ircm or come up with an automatic fan control circuit. The manual switch method is a problem waiting to happen. I run one fan all the time and control the other with an auto circuit that is temp controlled. Tom Senior Big Grin Big Grin
Reply

xcrunnerbd Offline
Posting Freak
#5
OK, I've done more trouble shooting and had some facts wrong:

The previous owner cut the Primary Fan wires and piggy backed the secondary fan so both came on when primary fan was on. This is why I thought the driver's side fan was the AC fan. I put the wiring back together in stock configuration. I don't think my IRCM is bad. I did this and nothing is on when the car is off. Everything is fine when car is running, no weird fan stuff, etc, they come on when they should.

Back to my relay, is it possible I have chosen a bad relay or did I not wire it up correctly? Or is this not the right type of relay? I'm leaning toward the latter. I don't have the switch wired up yet, but when the battery and main power are hooked up, pin 5 is "hot." Would I be safe to run both fans off pin 4 or should I use the other relay? I have a connector from 1 of the other Ford relays with 2-12 gauge wires coming off it (each are about 2" long) that I could easily use for this. I have the circuit breaker and an inline fuse from the switch.

I like having the switches so I can turn the fans on/off whenever, would be handy to have them on in staging lanes and be able to make a run w/o any of them on. Tom, please read the tech articles - what isn't a good idea about them? I haven't had problems with ANY of the Tech Articles yet and will continue to follow them until I or someone else finds a problem with them.
Project 13 sec. / 30mpg in '88 TC 5Speed : 15.91@89mph / 32+ mpg

On The Car: KN cone, 2-stage Gillis@ 15psi wired to fuel switch, Kirban AFPR @ 39psi, Walbro 255 HP FP, 130A 3G Alt., Full 3" Stinger Exhaust incl. cat. no muffler,

Shelf: .48 T3, ported E6, BPV
Reply

Martin Offline
Senior Member
#6
I don't know how many amps the Ford relay is rated for! "IF" it was a Bosch Realy, good for 30 Amps, I'd say go for it. If you look at the diagram of the Ford Relay again, you will see that pin 5 will be hot when the battery is hooked up to pin 3. When you activate the soleniod it will pull to pin 4.

I am reviewing the article on the fan wiring I did to try and make it even simpler. Rather than running the hot from the toggle switch at the dash all the way to the relay, I am going to redo mine to have it ground activated. Simply ground one side of the toggle switch contact under the dash, and jumper the hot from the 30 on the Bosch relay to 85 Pin and Ground from the Toggle switch to the 86. One less length of engerized wiring to worry about. I have an updated Paint drawing I did that I will send you with this slight mod.
Tom, Where did you plug in your lower temp temp sender. I have one from a shutterstat that trips at 180 degrees and could also wire this into the relay easily, just need a place to pick up the temp nicely!
Stock 87, no mods, Black with the grey interior.
Boost High, Fly Low
Reply

Martin Offline
Senior Member
#7
Forgot to add to the above, still trying to find a way to control the power side on a ground activated system ( so if the switch is left on , the fans do not stya on with the car off!). Not quite there yet!
Martin
Stock 87, no mods, Black with the grey interior.
Boost High, Fly Low
Reply

Tom Senior Offline
Banned
#8
Manual fan switches in my opinion are not very good. If you have a stock ircm and it works properly. All you have to do is ground with a switch or temp sender pin 14 on the ircm or at the ECM pin 55 TAN-ORG to control the primary fan. Or ground with a switch or temp sender pin 17 on the ircm or at the ECM pin 52 pink to controll the secondary fan. It doesnt get any more simpler than this .No extra wiring or relays involved. If you want the fans to run all the time leave the switch on or ground the pins perminately on the punchings i just gave you. This is not complicated and the fans wont run with the key in your pocket. Hope this helps Tom. Cool
Reply





Users browsing this thread:
1 Guest(s)



Theme © iAndrew 2018 - Software MyBB