North American Turbocoupe Organization



rear end grinding noise
RDOG Offline
Posting Freak
#1
I took the car to the local PepBoys to cjhevk out the noise. He lifted the car and told me that the sound was coming from the drivers side axel. He lifted the car and put it in first gear. While the wheels were spinning I could feel a occasional clunk from inside the pumkinwhere the axel meets the gears. Is this just the wheel bearing as he stated or worse. You cant hear the sound under load, just when you let off the gas you gear a grinding sound. I know there is a bearing outside but is there anything ekse within the pumpkin, I should replace too?
1986 Turbo Coupe. Boport StageIII head, Boport 2.1, Performance Techniques 50 trim hybird, StageII.63, stinger 3" exhaust, Phenolic spacer, Boglog header,NPR FMIC intercooler setup, kirban fpr, bigrmotorsports fuel rail, diablo water meth kit, CAI, remote mount TFI, CHE rear adj control arms, MAC girdle, 8.8 rear disc, aluminum drive shaft, H&R lowerings springs Tbird Turbo Specific, y MAS!!
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Huey866 Offline
Posting Freak
#2
There are 2 inner bearings that the differential rides on.
87 TurboCoupe - silver, 137k, 5-speed, 3.73 w/ superior axles, Maximum Motorsports suspension, 03 Cobra Brakes, 93 GT vacuum assist, Griggs Subframe connectors, RR cam, Essy Adj. Cam Gear, Boblog, Bob Elbow, .63 T-3, ARP headstuds, Stinger 3in Exhaust, Magnaflow Muffler, AEM gauges, Tweecer RT, Godspeed Omega 18x9
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RDOG Offline
Posting Freak
#3
Quote:Originally posted by Huey866:
There are 2 inner bearings that the differential rides on.
What do I ask for when purchasing this bearings?
1986 Turbo Coupe. Boport StageIII head, Boport 2.1, Performance Techniques 50 trim hybird, StageII.63, stinger 3" exhaust, Phenolic spacer, Boglog header,NPR FMIC intercooler setup, kirban fpr, bigrmotorsports fuel rail, diablo water meth kit, CAI, remote mount TFI, CHE rear adj control arms, MAC girdle, 8.8 rear disc, aluminum drive shaft, H&R lowerings springs Tbird Turbo Specific, y MAS!!
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Huey866 Offline
Posting Freak
#4
When is the rearend grinding? during acceleration? slowing down? coasting? A few more specifics could help with the diagnosis.
87 TurboCoupe - silver, 137k, 5-speed, 3.73 w/ superior axles, Maximum Motorsports suspension, 03 Cobra Brakes, 93 GT vacuum assist, Griggs Subframe connectors, RR cam, Essy Adj. Cam Gear, Boblog, Bob Elbow, .63 T-3, ARP headstuds, Stinger 3in Exhaust, Magnaflow Muffler, AEM gauges, Tweecer RT, Godspeed Omega 18x9
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T-BirdX3 Offline
Senior Member
#5
This is your inner differential bearing.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/T...7_0_0_6659

There is also a pinion bearing that might be making a noise.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/1...hyglZ6o2l7

There is also an outer axle bearing that is located just behind the rear hub, I have had several of these go bad and ruin my rear axle. NAPA and Rockauto both have a bearing that moves the area that the bearing rides on to a fresh part of the axle.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/1...hyglZ6o3al

I looked these up for the '88TC.

The clunking/grinding would have me concerned, there is no telling what you will find when you remove the diff cover.
'88 T-Coupe 5 speed/'88 T-Coupe Auto
'87 T-Coupe 5 speed/'87 T-coupe 5 speed(76k orig mile)
..... and there was light!
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee36...tled-2.jpg
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RDOG Offline
Posting Freak
#6
They had the car up in the air and the clunking was coming from along the axel shaft closest to the pumpkin. It sounds like a grinding sound during deceleration. You cant hear it under load at all, just when you let off the gas and also coasting.
1986 Turbo Coupe. Boport StageIII head, Boport 2.1, Performance Techniques 50 trim hybird, StageII.63, stinger 3" exhaust, Phenolic spacer, Boglog header,NPR FMIC intercooler setup, kirban fpr, bigrmotorsports fuel rail, diablo water meth kit, CAI, remote mount TFI, CHE rear adj control arms, MAC girdle, 8.8 rear disc, aluminum drive shaft, H&R lowerings springs Tbird Turbo Specific, y MAS!!
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zbird Offline
Posting Freak
#7
RDOG, Mine was making that noise and I replaced the axle bearings, pinion bearing and the carrier bearings. The carrier bearings are the ones closest to the pumpkin. However, finding the one that is making the noise can be difficult until you pull it apart. I recommend replacing everything while you are in there. My rear is like new now with no noise. I had to use the relocation bearings on the axles also.
Dom Z
88 T/C med grey. 140 MPH Speedo, Kirban FPR, Gillis valve,Tripminder, K&N.
87 T/C Silver, Auto (project Daily driver)
99 F150 4x4
14 Ford Escape 2.0L Turbo
IF YOU DRIVE A FORD YOU DON'T NEED A GOODWRENCH!!
88 T/C http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZihO_D1FLCE
87 Silver http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_dVU5axnb...ature=plcp
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RDOG Offline
Posting Freak
#8
Quote:Originally posted by zbird:
RDOG, Mine was making that noise and I replaced the axle bearings, pinion bearing and the carrier bearings. The carrier bearings are the ones closest to the pumpkin. However, finding the one that is making the noise can be difficult until you pull it apart. I recommend replacing everything while you are in there. My rear is like new now with no noise. I had to use the relocation bearings on the axles also.
The way its flopping around in there, I think its the carrier bearing. Plus I had the axel out and pushed and pulled on the pinion, and there was no play. It has to be the carrier bearing. It sucks because this rear end came off a car with only 76,000 miles on it. Hard to believe its went bad already with so little miles on it.
1986 Turbo Coupe. Boport StageIII head, Boport 2.1, Performance Techniques 50 trim hybird, StageII.63, stinger 3" exhaust, Phenolic spacer, Boglog header,NPR FMIC intercooler setup, kirban fpr, bigrmotorsports fuel rail, diablo water meth kit, CAI, remote mount TFI, CHE rear adj control arms, MAC girdle, 8.8 rear disc, aluminum drive shaft, H&R lowerings springs Tbird Turbo Specific, y MAS!!
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Ballman Offline
Senior Member
#9
Chip, all those parts cars, just take out a whole rear end from another car, automatic car has the better gear, swap the whole thing out. its a better way to go , with less work . Its not that hard to do and way cheaper than to rebuild your bad rear end, if the bearing is bad , chance is that its been riding hard on your ring gear and it will be bad also . D.Wilder
DW
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