Rear brakes popping after new pads

Hi
I have my TC up on jack stands right now, a friend who is a shade tree mechanic changed the pads on the rear and when we blead the brakes the two rear did not want to bleed, the pedal did not hardly move, we did the front and pedal went to the floor as both expected, but when started and put in gear with my foot on the brakes (still up on the stands) when I let off the pedal it makes a bad popping sound from the brakes....did we do something wrong? He said pads only go on one way and doesn't see how he could have messed it up.

To bleed the rear brakes on the turbo coupe:
1. Uncap the brake resorvoir.--Underhood
2. Turn key to "run", but leave the engine off.
3. Depress and hold brake pedal throughout the entire process. (I used a piece of wood wedged against the seat because I didn't have a friend handy)
4. Unscrew bleeder screw slowly (there will be much pressure behind the fluid). Leave the bleeder screw open for approx. 10 seconds then close it.
5. Refill resorvoir.
6. Unscrew bleeder screw slowly (there will be much pressure behind the fluid). Leave the bleeder screw open for approx. 10 seconds then close it.
7. Refill resorvoir.
8. Repeat until there is no more air.
9. Reinstall resorvoir cap.
10. Enjoy

CAUTION: If you do not keep the resorvoir full, you will be sucking air into the system. BEWARE!

Do one side at a time, and you should be good to go. A word to the wise: The fluid will be coming out of the bleeder screw at a pretty good flow. I used a piece of vacuum tubing over the bleeder screw and ran it down into a jar half full of water. This keeps the fluid from splashing around and getting all over everything, and you can see when air stops coming out better because it will be in the form of bubbles.
Good luck!

Thanks man!
Is the clicking sound the spacers/springs? and is there anything to worry about?...sounds bad to me but I am a newbee.

Could a sticking caliper be the cause?, my friend remembers the pads on the side the noise is coming from was almost worn down and the other side was like half way.

Figured it out...thanks for the help!

Got it back together, no more noise but with the new pads in the rear and the system bleed, the emergency brakes will not hold the car in gear at idle??? and after driving a few miles I smelled brakes and had some smoke coming from one of the rear wheels, think it must be the caliper sticking?, is there any way to un-stick it or take the caliper apart and clean it...I am no tech but learn fast.
Thanks

Maybe your ebrake is sticking on? If the cables are sticking, you can pull the ebrake release... Make sure to pull the release for the brake and don't just pop the hood release ... and then grab the cables one at a time next to each rear tire and spin them around in a big rotating motion. Kinda like if you were spinning a big jack-in-the-box handle, know what I mean? Then, either fix them, replace them, or never use them again. I opted for the latter. Mine stuck the very first time I parked my car, and I haven't used them since. I learned the unsticking trick from when other people drive my car and used the ebrake...which totally sucks.

Thanks Kev for the help!
Do you have to hold the ebrake release as you are spinning the cable?

How do you fix the sticking ebrake so this doesn't happen?

Originally posted by cyber-junkie:
Thanks Kev for the help!
Do you have to hold the ebrake release as you are spinning the cable?

How do you fix the sticking ebrake so this doesn't happen?

I pull the ebrake, spin the cables around vigorously, then pull the ebrake again. If you are parked on a slight incline, the car will roll when they release.

I don't really know how to fix it. I tried squirting PB blaster down the cable and wrenching them around like I described above, but they would still stick.

I think I get your drift...I am no mechanic, but like to learn new things...I guess the ebrake is a manual engage vs. the normal hydrolic engage of the rears...if I explained what I am thinking correct.