North American Turbocoupe Organization



Rear brake screw-in pistons.
Kev Offline
Posting Freak
#1
I'm changing my rear brake pads within the next couple of days and I've got a few questions. First, does the caliper piston on the rear screw in clockwise or counterclockwise. I'm thinking clockwise, but sure as the world, if I don't ask, I'll screw it up. Also, when I'm screwing the piston in, is there any chance that I'll be able to screw it in without opening the bleeder valves or will it just be too stiff? I'd like to stay away from having to bleed the brakes if at all possible. Thanks guys

Kev
Kev
1988 TC 5spd
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boost9 Offline
Member
#2
It screws in clockwise, If you don't already have the tool, make sure it's specifically for ford rear brakes, the first universal one I bought (square cube with different patterns) didn't fit. The flat round one from NAPA works perfect. I would open the bleed screw, I really had to muscle mine to to turn them.
88 T/C 5speed. 3in.Downpipe,Dynomax Super Turbo mufflers, Gillis valve on the way.
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joserw Offline
Junior Member
#3
I've got the whole tool assembly and it usually screws in pretty easily for me without having to open up the bleeder valves.
1987 TC Flowmasters K&N Cone Filter MSD Ignition
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Resurectedbird Offline
Senior Member
#4
I have done a bunch of them and never had to open the bleeder screws
Currently birdless, but will get another someday!
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Liquid_force Offline
Senior Member
#5
Needlenose pliers worked fine for me.
88 TC -- Dark Blue 283k
RIP - 9/22/07
She was a great TC and went down swinging Smile
Now -- Me: A minivan, I'll spare you the details.
Her: '09 VW Tiguan AWD 2.0T 101k
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Nitro_X Offline
Senior Member
#6
You shouldn't have to open the bleeder to turn the piston in (CW). The piston will force the fluid back into the system with no problem. I use a spanner (looks like a 1/4 round hook) in edge of the pad aligment pin slots. Just be sure and support the caliper well enough that you don't put excessive strain on the rubber brake line.

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87 TC, T-5 swap, billet quadrant / adj. cable, solid state IVR, fog light relay mod, PST suspension, KYB-AGX fronts, Gas-A-Just rears, K&N, bypassed BCS, med. red, 90's wing, 181K+ Mi's., daily driver, feeding on ricers!
87 TC, T-5 swap, billet quadrant / adj. cable, solid state IVR, fog light relay mod, PST suspension, KYB-AGX fronts, Gas-A-Just rears, K&N cone, billet alum BCV, med. red, 90's wing, polished snowflakes and centers, 195K+ Mi's., daily driver, feeding on ricers!
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dreese74 Offline
Junior Member
#7
The pistons were really really tight for me too. Next time I'll invest in the tool. Turns out my guide pins were frozen on one side too, so.....

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Dan Reese

'87 Turbo Coupe- K&N on the VAM, ATR 2 1/2 inch dual ss exhaust, timing @ 13*, Gillis soon to be installed.

"I love the smell of Cam2 in the morning..."
Dan Reese

'87 Turbo Coupe- K&N on the VAM, ATR 2 1/2 inch dual ss exhaust, timing @ 13*, Gillis soon to be installed.

"I love the smell of Cam2 in the morning..."
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Hurff Offline
Senior Member
#8
From the .02 worth department.

Opinions differ widely, but if you believe, which may be the case with older brakes, that there is 'junk, debris, rust or stuff thats not brake fluid' in the caliper, it mostly doesnt hurt to attach a bleeder cup & push out the old fluid and any stuff that may be present. (Just remember to top of the fluids later).
1987 TC - RIP
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