North American Turbocoupe Organization



Rear brake question
meathead Offline
Junior Member
#1
I just installed a Turbocoupe rear in my Mustang, so this whole disc brakes concept is a bit new to me. I have taken apart the rear calipers and completely rebuilt them. I got a new set of pads from the parts shop, but when I went to install them they *barely* fit in without the anti-rattle clips (not a chance with the clips installed). Doing a bit of a search on this board, I found that this has happened to other people. The solution given was to grind down the edges of the pads a bit so that they would fit. Now they fit great with the clips in place (thanks guys). My only question is how tight are they supposed be? I left them pretty stiff because I figure that this will help prevent pad squeal. Is this a good idea, or am I just going to cause my pads to drag?
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meathead Offline
Junior Member
#2
ttt
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John_M Offline
Member
#3
I had to grind mine down to fit. They are pretty dang snug and I'm going to leave them that way. I used the old pads as a guide and got the new ones as close as I could. I figure I'd rather them be to snug as to being to loose.

-John
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segfaultxr7 Offline
Posting Freak
#4
The pads should slide freely, or else they will hang up.

I got Napa Gold pads for the rear. They were a perfect fit when I took the anti-rattle clips out, and they don't make any noise at all.
88 TC 5-speed
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Chris Ruhl Offline
Member
#5
I also bought the Napa Gold pads and left the clips out when I replaced my rear pads. They work fine also.
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Jeff K Offline
Administrator
#6
I hadto grind down the tabs on the pads to get them to fit with the antirattle clips. If you go that route, grind off a small amount, test fit, grind, test fit until you get it to fit right.

------------------
Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 20 psi, forced air intercooler, water injection, bypass valve, Ranger roller cam, subframes, etc., etc.. // 86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP nitrous, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.... // 91 Escort: Bone stock winter car // 00 Windstar (wifes vehicle)
Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
11 Crown Vic Interceptor
14 Toyota Camry (wifes car)
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized
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meathead Offline
Junior Member
#7
Basically what I did was RTV the pads to the caliper on the one side and the piston on the other side. The tabs are pretty snug against the sides, but I can manually slide the bracket up and down without the pads becoming cocked. Is that going to work, or should it be able to slide "effortlessly".
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