North American Turbocoupe Organization



Rear brake question
meathead Offline
Junior Member
#1
I just installed a Turbocoupe rear in my Mustang, so this whole disc brakes concept is a bit new to me. I have taken apart the rear calipers and completely rebuilt them. I got a new set of pads from the parts shop, but when I went to install them they *barely* fit in without the anti-rattle clips (not a chance with the clips installed). Doing a bit of a search on this board, I found that this has happened to other people. The solution given was to grind down the edges of the pads a bit so that they would fit. Now they fit great with the clips in place (thanks guys). My only question is how tight are they supposed be? I left them pretty stiff because I figure that this will help prevent pad squeal. Is this a good idea, or am I just going to cause my pads to drag?
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meathead Offline
Junior Member
#2
ttt
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John_M Offline
Member
#3
I had to grind mine down to fit. They are pretty dang snug and I'm going to leave them that way. I used the old pads as a guide and got the new ones as close as I could. I figure I'd rather them be to snug as to being to loose.

-John
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segfaultxr7 Offline
Posting Freak
#4
The pads should slide freely, or else they will hang up.

I got Napa Gold pads for the rear. They were a perfect fit when I took the anti-rattle clips out, and they don't make any noise at all.
88 TC 5-speed
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Chris Ruhl Offline
Member
#5
I also bought the Napa Gold pads and left the clips out when I replaced my rear pads. They work fine also.
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Jeff K Offline
Administrator
#6
I hadto grind down the tabs on the pads to get them to fit with the antirattle clips. If you go that route, grind off a small amount, test fit, grind, test fit until you get it to fit right.

------------------
Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 20 psi, forced air intercooler, water injection, bypass valve, Ranger roller cam, subframes, etc., etc.. // 86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP nitrous, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.... // 91 Escort: Bone stock winter car // 00 Windstar (wifes vehicle)
Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
05 Taurus SEL Duratec daily driver
04 Taurus Duratec (wifes car)
02 Pontiac Grand Prix GT
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized
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meathead Offline
Junior Member
#7
Basically what I did was RTV the pads to the caliper on the one side and the piston on the other side. The tabs are pretty snug against the sides, but I can manually slide the bracket up and down without the pads becoming cocked. Is that going to work, or should it be able to slide "effortlessly".
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