deadbird
Joined:
Apr 2003
Paw Paw, MI
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I am looking around for paint quotes. Looks like I am gonna have to drive. One place wants 3800 stock color me tape, fix dents, and fix teh rust. What is the general consensus of macco? My dad says they are good but he worked there so that is bias and 25 years ago. Any suggestions? I am looking to spend the least I can. My main concern is the dents that are in the car. very minimal in scratches throught the car. Acctually the only parts that need to be painted are the roof, and the front bumper. The rest is just dents. Sorry for the jumpy message fighting 11 Month old daughter for keyboard.
1987 5 sp.
- 4.6 2v swap.
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georgechard
Joined:
Mar 2003
villa rica ga usa
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If you do all the bodywork,remove everything you can,tape the car off your self(they do a crappy job at taping)you can get a good deal on just the paint job. You have done most of the work at that point.
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23027
Joined:
Aug 2007
South Surrey, British Columbia, Canada
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Well my car was absolutely gastly when I first bought it.. Roof, front & rear drivers side fenders replaced and primed.
I got the whole car, trim, 2 door sills, 2 hood scoops, mirrors, door handles, window panneling & trim all painted with Macco's Premium paint in a custom color I chose for $3500 Cdn including body work on the doors, fender and hood.
They did a fantastic job.. Although there are a few things missed, I still give them much appreciation. I will be going back under warranty to have a couple little things re-done, but I would deffinately recommend Macco.
That being said though i'm sure if you did the prep work yourself it would be much cheaper to get the paint job done on it's own.
George is right though, they didn't do a great job preventing overspray. Got some inside the engine bay just around the sides like on my battery and on top of my headlamp bulb connectors.
But that being said no harm in doing that yourself.
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georgechard
Joined:
Mar 2003
villa rica ga usa
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MAACO did me right.I had a 93 F150 that I put a new bed + new pass. fender on and had them re-shoot the whole truck,even inside the bed.They used their 1-stage integrated base/clear and it came out great.I did have 2 complaints with them: They didn't remove the tail-lights when they were prepping,and there were D/A swirl marks all over them,later they buffed them out. 2-I had 33's on the truck and I guess the wheel covers they use were too small to cover them up,so I had overspray on my brand new American Racing rims.I spent a whole weekend polishing it off.I would go back there again,but they closed and the nearest one is in Ohio somewhere.Advice o your own body-work,then opt for their high end paint job.It will be under 1K and look good.
1991 Taurus SHO Plus-Red,black leather.2012 F150 XLT 3.5 EcoBoost.
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deadbird
Joined:
Apr 2003
Paw Paw, MI
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What is the best DIY body book. My dad worked for Maaco as their body guy so I have plenty of insight but he admits that he may have forgotten alot in 25 years. I know how to I just want to be perfect. I already fixed a rust spot on it good enought to prevent spreading.
1987 5 sp.
- 4.6 2v swap.
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RJ
Joined:
Dec 2007
Dunnville Ontario Canada
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RJ
Junior Member
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1988 Turbo Coupe, 5speed. LOADED. ranger roller cam, p/p head, and intakes, Volvo intercooler, Holset turbo, turbosmart waste gate, too much to list.
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Go to the best shop you can aford , you get what you pay for and save yourself lots of greef and headaches . A good base-clear job will be 3500 to 5 grand . Just for yourself , try to take out a few things yourself , these cars are easy to work on and take apart , strip the car if you can and are close to the shop or later have the car taken on a flat bed to the body shop , after you have done your best to taking off what parts you can , more you take off the cheaper and better the car will come out , just look out when its time to put it back togeather . D.Wilder
DW
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