North American Turbocoupe Organization



Re-installing A/C?
Not B Anymore Offline
Administrator
#1
Hey guys,
The recent and humidity have me thinking about getting some A/C going in my car again. I'm not super familiar with A/C systems so I don't really know what I would and would not need to buy. This is more for future reference since I am pretty much broke at the moment.

So the A/C in my car never worked since I've owned it (14+ years). Since I was too cheap to fix it, I just removed everything back in 200(1?) when I removed the engine. None of it ever went back in. Since then the evaporator core has been open to the elements, as have the hose attachment points on the compressor (which has been sitting on a shelf for years).

I know for sure that I need a new accumulator, condenser, & hoses. I don't know if the compressor works or not and I don't know if the evaporator core can be cleaned out or if it needs replacement.

Also - the hoses... my brain is telling me that there should be at least three of them, but I can only find two of them on RockAuto.

So any A/C experts out there? Any input on what would need to happen to make the A/C work again would be appreciated.
Brian Leavitt
'86 TC 5-Speed -- MS2x w/COP | 83 lb. injectors | T3/T4 50 Trim Stage 3 .63AR | Full 3" Exhaust - No Cat | Motorsport FMIC | Ranger Roller | Ported E6 | Walbro 255HP | Kirban | 20psi | 120-amp 3G | 8.8" 3.55 rear | '03 Cobra Wheels
Reply

TurboBoost88 Offline
Member
#2
i would check and see if the compressor will still turn, use your hand or a clutch spanner wrench. also all the o-rings will need to be replaced . the original ones should be black, switching to the newer green ones will be fine. if your switching over to r-134a, you will need to change the oil in the compressor to pag, also use a/c flush to remove old oil from evap and condensor. the service manual should tell you how much oil is needed to refill. I would also use oil on the o-rings to help lubricate the o-rings and make for an easier connection. The receiver/ drier will need to be replaced and correct amoount of oil added. I would also replace the liquid line, since the car I think has a fixed orifice tube. and would be cheaper that using a repair kit. When oiling the compressor, make sure to leave it clutch down for a couple of hours to help lubricate the front seal. Also you will need the adapter fittings for both high and low side fittings. I would recommend you get the steel ones, since they are more durable. Also pull a good vacuum for a couple of hours, then check and make sure your not losing any vacuum. charging with r-134 will be 75-80% of what the original Freon charge was. watch the gauges and vent temp will give you the best way of knowing when its charged. also, you might also need to adjust the low pressure cycling switch to get the best vent temp and cycling time of the compressor. I hope this helps.
88 TurboCoupe,Midnight Metallic Blue on Blue cloth, 140 m.p.h. speedo, 96,000 miles, 5spd. Gills valve, many new parts waiting to be installed..88 TC, Silver, 5spd, My first car, wish I still had that one! Built for customers: 67 Ford Fairlane,69 Mach I,70 Mach I Clone,95 Ranger 2.3/5.0 EFI Conversion,99 Cobra Procharger SC-1 Install/Tune,Factory Five Racing Mark III Cobra #4114,1955 Black on Black Thunderbird for local Ford Dealer owner's wife.
Reply

Jeff K Offline
Administrator
#3
^^^^^ All GREAT advise!
Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
05 Taurus SEL Duratec daily driver
04 Taurus Duratec (wifes car)
02 Pontiac Grand Prix GT
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized
Reply

Joe F Offline
Posting Freak
#4
After 14 years with outside air intrusion, I'm willing to bet the seals in the compressor are shot; I wouldn't trust them. Likewise the interior of the evaporator could be infested with who-knows-what.

It's a big job already, but in your case I'd replace everything. That's just me, though. At the very worst I'd retain the evaporator, but not until I blew it out and then pressure and flow tested it.

My 2¢ worth.
JR's Place - My '87 Turbocoupe
Reply

TurboE Offline
Posting Freak
#5
Slim chance but you might be able to check with the Ford dealer on the lines? I know I replaced one that was thought to be obsolete (it must have shared another vehicle). You could always try these guys, if they can't get it, most likely it's completely gone. Best auto parts store ever, very knowledgable and can normally get everything the same to next day at the worst. I know it's not local to you but might help decide what is and isn't available new/rebuilt and I'm sure they could ship it.

Rogers Foreign & Domestic Car Parts
287 Schuylkill Rd, Phoenixville, PA ‎
(610) 933-1110

You can buy the o-rings and spring clips online and get assorted sizes so you have everything you need. I rebuilt the end of the lines/connectors other than the one line I had to buy. If you can't get the line maybe a hydraulic shop can build a custom line to match the old one. Good luck getting it back functional.
-88 TC Black
5spd, Precision SC50 T3/T4, QH/SD Tune, Gillis, AFPR, 255FP, WB O2, K&N, Ported E6, 3" DP, ATR 2.5" Duals, 3:73 Rear, Konis, Eibachs, 18" Voxx Wheels, X Drilled Rotors.
-06 G35 Coupe Diamond Graphite
-97 Pathfinder
Reply

TurboBoost88 Offline
Member
#6
you can get the a/c lines and any other parts at rockauto.com
88 TurboCoupe,Midnight Metallic Blue on Blue cloth, 140 m.p.h. speedo, 96,000 miles, 5spd. Gills valve, many new parts waiting to be installed..88 TC, Silver, 5spd, My first car, wish I still had that one! Built for customers: 67 Ford Fairlane,69 Mach I,70 Mach I Clone,95 Ranger 2.3/5.0 EFI Conversion,99 Cobra Procharger SC-1 Install/Tune,Factory Five Racing Mark III Cobra #4114,1955 Black on Black Thunderbird for local Ford Dealer owner's wife.
Reply

Not B Anymore Offline
Administrator
#7
Yeah there has to be a hose going from the condenser to the compressor, right? That's the one I never see. The other two are readily available.

Joe F Wrote:...the interior of the evaporator could be infested with who-knows-what.

^^^^^This is what I was/am most concerned with - and having to replace it is pretty much a deal-breaker unless/until my heater core decides to bite the dust.

I tried turning the compressor and everything moves freely. Below is some video of that. I don't know if those noises would be normal or not, but if it's likely that the internal seals are shot then I suppose it doesn't matter anyways.
[video:youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cgJ_tjlGTSs[/video]
All the noises come from inside the compressor...
Brian Leavitt
'86 TC 5-Speed -- MS2x w/COP | 83 lb. injectors | T3/T4 50 Trim Stage 3 .63AR | Full 3" Exhaust - No Cat | Motorsport FMIC | Ranger Roller | Ported E6 | Walbro 255HP | Kirban | 20psi | 120-amp 3G | 8.8" 3.55 rear | '03 Cobra Wheels
Reply

TurboBoost88 Offline
Member
#8
sounds a little dry but ok. you can get the front shaft seal for it, that would be the most thing to replace on a compressor sitting that long.
88 TurboCoupe,Midnight Metallic Blue on Blue cloth, 140 m.p.h. speedo, 96,000 miles, 5spd. Gills valve, many new parts waiting to be installed..88 TC, Silver, 5spd, My first car, wish I still had that one! Built for customers: 67 Ford Fairlane,69 Mach I,70 Mach I Clone,95 Ranger 2.3/5.0 EFI Conversion,99 Cobra Procharger SC-1 Install/Tune,Factory Five Racing Mark III Cobra #4114,1955 Black on Black Thunderbird for local Ford Dealer owner's wife.
Reply

vegas_ss Offline
Senior Member
#9
The liquid line w/orifice valve and suction hose w/accumulator are available at rockauto. The hose you are missing is the high side and runs from the compressor to the condenser... That hose I couldn't find anywhere. That hose also has the fitting for the low pressure switch. The hose makes a U turn from the back of the compressor and runs towards the condenser with the low pressure fitting located by the evap canister.

I would try and find one at a junkyard or off ebay, then have it rebuilt at a local hose shop. They will reuse the hard lines and replace the rubber hose. I just had that done (make sure you replace the schrader valve afterwards as mine leaked)… I used the suction and liquid lines sourced from rockauto. .

Some notes on replacement hoses....

The suction/accumulator hose from rockauto has a different routing of the hard line as it cuts over from the fender to the compressor. The original line was routed down along side the fender and over, the new hose is routed over near the intercooler support bracket and then down to the compressor. I didn't like that route compared to the original, but it does work.

The original hose also was separate from the accumulator, however I also couldn't locate an accumulator with the correct fittings/angles for the original hose (which I had rebuilt too but couldn't use).

I would use r12 rather than 134a... the hr980 doesn't do well with the higher head pressures needed. I sourced r12 off ebay... averages maybe $20 - $30 a can (14 oz.)

The system is icy cold and we did have some 115 degree days here a few weeks ago… I have yet to encounter a r12 system converted to 134a that actually cuts it in severe weather. If its’ not too bad (80’s 90’s) you may be OK, but if over 100 (when you REALLY want it to work well) you will be disappointed compared to the way r12 performs in a system like the tbird.
1987 TC, 5sp, Boport Stage 3 Head/2.1 Cam
1996 Impala SS
Reply





Users browsing this thread:
1 Guest(s)



Theme © iAndrew 2018 - Software MyBB