North American Turbocoupe Organization



Random no start....
Kuch Offline
Senior Member
#11
Jeff, a little follow up to your idea. Last night I washed and waxed the car all pretty like and went to move it and it didn't start again. Thought of your idea on the inertia switch so I went back to the trunk and reset it a few times. Car started up, SO, if the switch is bad or overly sensitive, can it be safely bi-passed? Looks to be a simple cut and solder type of bypass. What do you think?
1988 Turbo Coupe, Black/Black, 5 Speed, Moonroof,  T3/T4, ported E6, 255LPH, Kirban, Stinger Exhaust, MGW shifter, K&N, Gillis valve, BP1.5, PIMPx, Koni's
1964 Ford Galaxie 500XL, 390 6V, Big Solid cam, Headers,3.89's, 4 Speed, Vast and fast
1960 Ford Starliner, 292 Y Block, 312 4bbl intake, headers, 3 Speed, slow and low
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Jeff K Offline
Administrator
#12
Sure, you can bypass the inertia switch with no issues assuming you dont get into a crash that causes a major fuel leak with the engine still running that causes a fuel fire. When my inertia switch took a dump. I considered eliminating it from the fuel pump circuit, but decided it wasnt worth the risk if the car got hit in just the wrong way. The cost of a new switch is insignificant compared to my life and my wife's life.

I dont see an issue with bypassing it for a few days to see if the occasional no start condition goes away.
Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
11 Crown Vic Interceptor
14 Toyota Camry (wifes car)
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized
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Kuch Offline
Senior Member
#13
Yeah, kind of agree with you on that, I just checked RockA and they only have a universal AC delco switch listed. did you go to the dealer for a new one?
1988 Turbo Coupe, Black/Black, 5 Speed, Moonroof,  T3/T4, ported E6, 255LPH, Kirban, Stinger Exhaust, MGW shifter, K&N, Gillis valve, BP1.5, PIMPx, Koni's
1964 Ford Galaxie 500XL, 390 6V, Big Solid cam, Headers,3.89's, 4 Speed, Vast and fast
1960 Ford Starliner, 292 Y Block, 312 4bbl intake, headers, 3 Speed, slow and low
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Jeff K Offline
Administrator
#14
I seem to remember it was a dealer only item back 15 or so years ago, and not cheap. No clue if they are even available from the dealer anymore. Could check some of the online Mustang supply houses for one. You might get lucky.

I would think a generic one would work fine as long as it is securely mounted to the body of the car. I dont think its location is super important. The TC one is at the back trunk panel, the one in my 86 Tbird 5.0 is above the pass side rear wheel well, and a friend had a mid 80s Ranger and his (which also failed) was somewhere in the interior of the truck on the passenger side (dont remember exactly where).
Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
11 Crown Vic Interceptor
14 Toyota Camry (wifes car)
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized
Reply

Jeff K Offline
Administrator
#15
I just checked Ebay..... there are a bunch of used and a few new Ford inertia switches relatively cheap. May have to fab up a mount and/or different electrical connections.
Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
11 Crown Vic Interceptor
14 Toyota Camry (wifes car)
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized
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