North American Turbocoupe Organization



Ran fine now Nothing
nickm Offline
Junior Member
#1
I have a 86 turbocoupe that ive had plenty of problems in the past, but this one is different. i had it sitting for the winter like i always have since i bought it. Started it at least once a month (as you who are also from northeast ohio know this winter wasnt bad at all) last week i took it for its spring breakin, started fine idles good, took it for about a mile drive ran fine. got back to my brothers where i store it, was idle in the driveway then just died. went to start it just clicked like my battery was dead n maybe the alt wasnt charging. hooked it up to a charger. as soon as i turn the key the fuel pump starts and the speedo gos to 60, fuel pupm never shuts off. when i turn the key to the start pos i get a buzzing from the computer and noticed its also buzzing from #1 fuel injector. i figure i have a dead ground or something that is energizing the computer. i checked the orange wire that goesto the turbo which i think grounds the computer, and changed the starter siliond thinking that was it but nothing. im open for any and all ideas, after all ive gone thru with this car im bout to just put her up for parts. thanks

nick
86 headwork need parts
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Jeff K Offline
Administrator
#2
Any EFI car doesnt like low system voltage. First verify system voltage with key off, during crank and with engine running (If you can get it to start). If crank voltage drops under about 9.6 V the PCM doesnt function right and does all kinds of screwy things.

Actually, the first thing I would do is try a known good battery. The current batt might have died over the winter. If the batt developed a dead or shorted cell, it can supply any amps.
Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
05 Taurus SEL Duratec daily driver
04 Taurus Duratec (wifes car)
02 Pontiac Grand Prix GT
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized
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nickm Offline
Junior Member
#3
update, jeff i put a known good battery in yesterday and as soon as i hooked it up the fuel pump started running with out the key even in the car, and its doing the same thing, speedo strait to 60 fuel pump running and not stopping, and when i put the key in and go to start it i get a buzzing coming from the computer. i have changed out the computer with another known good one with the exact same results. im wondering since mine is a 86 and has an exturnal voltage regulator, could that be the problem? it is one of the very few thing on the car i havent changed in the 12 years ive owned it. any ideas would be great, thanks again

nick
86 headwork need parts
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w60 Offline
Senior Member
#4
won't a bad ignition switch do all sorts of screwy things? I'm a much of an expert, so I'm just thinking aloud.
http://www.mycoachonline.com
White 88 TC Auto Trans
White 04 Honda CR/V
Blue 74 Honda Trail 70
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Jeff K Offline
Administrator
#5
I think you are getting "the computer" confused. the EEC IV engine computer is in the pass side kick panel. The IRCM (relay box), which I think you are mistaking for the engine computer is located on the pass side strut tower.

Buzzing relays are usually due to a bad ground. There should be a heavy gauge wire coming off the negative batt lead close to the batt terminal that goes to a black 2 terminal connector close by. this is the EEC ground from pins 40/60. Check that connector for corrosion, good contact, etc. Check batt to engine ground and engine to frame ground strap. Maybe clean those grounds.

I have seen batt cables that look fine but have high resistance at the batt clamps. Do you know how to do a voltage drop test?
Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
05 Taurus SEL Duratec daily driver
04 Taurus Duratec (wifes car)
02 Pontiac Grand Prix GT
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized
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nickm Offline
Junior Member
#6
jeff mine is a 86 and i do have the exturnal regulator,and no ircm. the regulator is on the drivers side inner fender. and yes the buzzing is coming from the computer in the pass side kick panel and that is what i switched out with the same results. i will go through and check and clean all the grounds. how would i go about checking the ignition switch? is there a way to bypass it or just buy a new one. thanks again

nick
86 headwork need parts
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zbird Offline
Posting Freak
#7
Nickm, they are cheap enough and most auto parts stores carry them. It is locate in the steering column under all the trim pieces and has tamper resistant Torx screws holding it in. When they go bad all kind of crazy stuff goes wrong.
Dom Z
88 T/C med grey. 140 MPH Speedo, Kirban FPR, Gillis valve,Tripminder, K&N.
87 T/C Silver, Auto (project Daily driver)
99 F150 4x4
14 Ford Escape 2.0L Turbo
IF YOU DRIVE A FORD YOU DON'T NEED A GOODWRENCH!!
88 T/C http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZihO_D1FLCE
87 Silver http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_dVU5axnb...ature=plcp
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Pete D Offline
Administrator
#8
You can "slot" the Torx screws with a dremel and use a flat blade screw driver to get them out and back in
Pete Dunham


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RDOG Offline
Posting Freak
#9
Here is part number for the plug for the ignition switch harness. I am sure they can get the part number for ignition switch from the other part number.

This is the repair kit from Autozone. Ford dealerships no longer carries it.

Part#434 ignition switch pigtail assembly
9903031118B
ref 36

Heres the pic....
http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t97/b...airkit.jpg

You can actually unplug it and the look side the switch. You will be able to see burnt connectors with it unplugged.
1986 Turbo Coupe. Boport StageIII head, Boport 2.1, Performance Techniques 50 trim hybird, StageII.63, stinger 3" exhaust, Phenolic spacer, Boglog header,NPR FMIC intercooler setup, kirban fpr, bigrmotorsports fuel rail, diablo water meth kit, CAI, remote mount TFI, CHE rear adj control arms, MAC girdle, 8.8 rear disc, aluminum drive shaft, H&R lowerings springs Tbird Turbo Specific, y MAS!!
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nickm Offline
Junior Member
#10
update. changed the ignition switch (btw mines a 86 and it had the lil break off bolts with the nub, not the torx) out with a new one. that fixed the buzzing from the computer and the speedo going to 60 with just the battery connected. then i noticed the ground wire on the ignition cylinder was dis colored,so i went back to parts store bought new one and changed it out. that fixed everything except the fuel pump runs with the battery connected untill i turn the new key to the run position then it primes and shuts off, then to start, and it starts and runs fine. shut it off n fuel pump still runs with key out. if i turn it from run to off at least 3 times the fuel pump turns off and stays off. either way its running again and i dont have to push it anymore, thank you all for your help once again, never would have thought an ignition switch would do all that.thanks again

nick
86 headwork need parts
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