North American Turbocoupe Organization



Radiator Fans not coming on
GrandeDan Offline
Junior Member
#11
Jeff K Kuchi put in a new ECT today. Let the car get between the N and O on the gauge. Fans still didn’t work. This is an after market sensor but they didn’t kick on at all. Any suggestions on what to try next? At this point I’m considering hotwiring the fans to just turn on with key on
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JT Offline
Posting Freak
#12
(02-27-2022, 11:20 PM)GrandeDan Wrote: Jeff K Kuchi put in a new ECT today. Let the car get between the N and O on the gauge. Fans still didn’t work. This is an after market sensor but they didn’t kick on at all. Any suggestions on what to try next? At this point I’m considering hotwiring the fans to just turn on with key on

A few things:

1. The factory gauges are not accurate. They are an indicator. They are also 30+ years old. What does N and O, temperature wise, mean? 200F? 180F 220F? It's impossible to know because they're also controlled via the IVR, which can cause the gauges to read higher or normal than what they should. However, if one gauge is reading higher or lower than normal due to the IVR, then the Fuel Level and Oil Pressure gauge will as well.

2. Aftermarket parts are not recommend for certain parts. I would not use an aftermarket ECT. Having the original fail and this new one fail would seem like a low chance, but it's possible.

3. Did you check for coolant flow to the ECT? It was suggested that the path to the ECT is a common plug point. If the ECT does not get direct coolant contact, it will not read correctly by under reporting the temperature. 

4. In my opinion, running the KOEO/KOER test will not have a lot of info in this case. Edit: It is advised to use the troubleshooting to correctly narrow down the issue, however, I just don't think it's going to show you anything related to this issue unless you're having more issues that you haven't noted or are unaware of. What you described to this point shows that the cooling fans operate via the relays which means the relays, wiring and fans operate. You also indicated seeing one fan briefly run and stop when you start the vehicle, which is a normal "quirk" with the EEC transition. This also suggests the EEC is in control of the fan or fans. Edit: I suppose I should say that with some caution, as that's not totally accurate but it does favor that the system is working. In this case, the KOEO/KOER would only tell you if the ECT is out of range, but it won't tell you which way. It has to be way off to get a trouble code and if it were that far off you would expect to see some start and run issues since the ECT's input is important to calculate the base A/F, RPM and other things.
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GrandeDan Offline
Junior Member
#13
JT  i believe that the flow is okay. When the car is moving the gauge stays within the o and r on the gauge. This tells me the fans spin when the car is moving and coolant is flowing properly. 

Do you have a suggestion on where to find a factory one and what engines it came on? I can give an original a try.

If I can’t get the sensor to work, is it possible to run the fans with Key on? Basically jumping them to another item that runs with key on?
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JT Offline
Posting Freak
#14
(02-28-2022, 12:43 AM)GrandeDan Wrote: JT  i believe that the flow is okay. When the car is moving the gauge stays within the o and r on the gauge. This tells me the fans spin when the car is moving and coolant is flowing properly. 

Do you have a suggestion on where to find a factory one and what engines it came on? I can give an original a try.

If I can’t get the sensor to work, is it possible to run the fans with Key on? Basically jumping them to another item that runs with key on?

The engine temperature sensor for the gauge and the engine temperature sensor for the EEC are two different sensors at different spots on the engine. Therefore, the coolant flow is still a valid issue.

The one between the injectors will feed the EEC but has nothing to do with the gauge. The gauge is fed from the sensor on the lower left side of the block.

Additionally, I forget the specs, but I believe at a certain MPH the fan control is delayed by the EEC because the theory is that engine moving will cause airflow through the radiator and provide some cooling so that the fans don't need to operate or operate as much.

Lastly, having the fans on all engine running times may not be recommended. Especially if you're running the stock alternator. Changing the fan operation from cycling to constant will increase the load on the charging system that is already inadequate.
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GrandeDan Offline
Junior Member
#15
JT what should I check next? I’m not entirely skilled in working on cars. I’d rather take it to a shop and have somebody fix everything. Hoses need replaced too
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Kuch Offline
Senior Member
#16
I will say that in my car, the fans will not kick on until the temp gauge is at the line where it shows HOT. Anywhere in the normal zone and they do not kick on. This is with a factory ford ECT from a junkyard crown vic 5.0. I agree that the temp gauge is not the most accurate and should not be a basis for actual water temps. If I idle my car until the temps get up, the water will get hot enough for the fans to kick on, which seems to be a norm for 2.3's as long as the car is moving the temps stay below hot and hang in the normal range fine. Also, Grande, on my car I thought the flow was fine through my lower intake to the ECT sensor as well, until I pulled the lower intake and saw that it was completely clogged. I literally had to drill out the hose nipple and scrape and wire brush out the intake passage. So even though the ECT sensor was getting hot water to it from the head, there was no flow over it so there was probably stagnant hot water around it. Pull the hose off of the lower intake and try inserting a small screwdriver or scribe in the hose connector as far in as it can go. If it stops or only goes so far, I bet your lower intake is clogged.
1988 Turbo Coupe, Black/Black, 5 Speed, Moonroof,  T3/T4, ported E6, 255LPH, Kirban, Stinger Exhaust, MGW shifter, K&N, Gillis valve, BP1.5, PIMPx, Koni's
1964 Ford Galaxie 500XL, 390 6V, Big Solid cam, Headers,3.89's, 4 Speed, Vast and fast
1960 Ford Starliner, 292 Y Block, 312 4bbl intake, headers, 3 Speed, slow and low
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Mikey97D Offline
Member
#17
Did you put the jumper in as previously shown post to run the KOEO test? Did both fans turn on when running the test?
1988 TC, 5 spd, Stinger 3" Exhaust, Schneider Roller Cam, -4° Cam Pulley, Cone Filter, Gilles Boost Control Valve set at 17 psi, Walbro 255 lph, CHE Rear Lower and Upper Control Arms, Braided Brake Lines, Hawk HPS 5.0 Front and HPS (F) Rear, CRES Inserts in front calipers, and '93 Cobra Wheels with General 235/50R17 Tires.   
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teal95 Offline
Senior Member
#18
From the factory the EEC doesn't turn the fan on until the engine temp is near the top of the gauge usually, or when the A/C compressor is engaged. From what I've seen the most common failure is the fan motor. With the size of the radiator vs engine the fan usually only runs if you're sitting idling for an extended period of time. Road racers usually remove the fans as they're just extra weight and actually block airflow at speed.

steve
'83 & '84 GT turbo EEC-Tuner
'85.5 & '86 SVO twEECer
2x '87 & '88 TC QuarterHorse
'93 LX 5.0 notch Moates chips
3x '95 & '96 GT
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