North American Turbocoupe Organization



questions about the ECT sensor.....
HappyGoneMad Offline
Junior Member
#1
It's hard for me to figure out exactly where it's located based on the pictures I have-so just to clarify-Is it located inbetween a couple of the fuel injectors, with a wiring harness sticking out of the top, and it screws directly into the engine spark plug style? I'm thinking that it is bad because my cooling fan comes on during the KOEO test but not when motor gets hot. I didn't get a code for it, but I hear sometimes one won't show up. I'm not quite sure how accurate the temp guage is, and assume it probalby isn't. The car doesn't seem to overheat, but I know the fan isn't coming on so I only try and drive the car short distances and then let it cool. Also, how can I tell if the water pump is working?
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joshdish Offline
Junior Member
#2
the ect sensor is directly under the elbow of the upper plenum of the inteake, i believe it is in the middle between the the injectors, the plug comes straight down onto it. it is not easy to remove, it uses a one inch socket. i had to move the alternator, plug wires, and fuel pressure regulator to get to it. a useful tool would be an inch and a half extensoin. i used a breaker bar that i had tilted up at a pretty steap angle to get it out and put a new one in.

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5spd 88 tc, black and white...summer project
5spd 88 tc, black and white...summer project
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Pete D Offline
Administrator
#3
The ECT doesn't always throw a code when it's bad. It is located in the middle of the lower intake, between the injectors.

A quick test (for 87-88s, not sure on the earlier TCs) is to pull the connector off the ECT, jumper across the two terminals of the connector (not the ECT) and start the engine.
If the fan(s) run, as they should, that means the motors, relays and wiring are OK. Then the problem is most likely the ECT and/or the water passage fitting out of the lower intake is plugged with deposits. This is a frequent occurence and keep the hottest coolant from flowing past the ECT, thus the fan doesn't turn on or at least not until the engine is hotter than it should be. This fitting is on the driver's side, in the middle of the lower intake, pointing down and toward the fender. Has a small diameter hose attached to it. Best to remove it, clean the blockage out and also clean the hole it screws into which is also usually partially blocked. Drain the coolant system first.

While your under there you might want to change all the various coolant hoses on that side because they probably have never been done.

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NATO Member. it's not a vice, it's an obsession
Letting the cat out of the bag is a whole lot easier than putting it back in.
88 TC X 2, 86 SVO, mods list at
http://www.turbotbird.com/showroom/pd_88tc.htm

[This message has been edited by Pete D (edited 06-25-2003).]
Pete Dunham


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philS Offline
Senior Member
#4
Pete,

what diameter are those hoses around the oil cooler area ... 5/8 ID? Just noticed mine are all "Motorcraft" (ie: on borrowed time)

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86 TC, 73 Austin Mini

Click here to beat a ricer.
Did you hear about the Lucas powered torpedo? It sank.

86 TC, 73 Mini, 64 Mini Van, Saturn wagon
Click here to beat a ricer.
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Jeff K Offline
Administrator
#5
Hoses to oil cooler are both 5/8". I just got 2 90 deg bend molded hoses from the parts store, and cut them to fit.... saved the funny looks you get when you tell them you want oil cooler hoses for a TC.

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Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 20 psi, forced air intercooler, water injection, bypass valve, Ranger roller cam, subframes, etc., etc.. // 86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP nitrous, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.... // 91 Escort: Bone stock winter car // 02 Taurus Vulcan(wifes car)
Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
11 Crown Vic Interceptor
14 Toyota Camry (wifes car)
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized
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Pete D Offline
Administrator
#6
The hose to the intake fitting is smaller diameter than 5/8" heater hose and it has bends in it. I was able to get a new one but don't remember the details. Be gentle with it until you get/order a new one
Pete Dunham


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HappyGoneMad Offline
Junior Member
#7
Hey Pete, thanks for the advice! I jumpered the two terminals of the ECT connector together like you said and started the car and both fans kicked right on! As far as that water passage fitting goes..It's coming out of the lower intake right about above the oil filter, aiming down toward the fender and then bends back in an 'L-shape' toward the firewall and then down..and looks like about a 5/8" diameter hose, am I right??? Is there an easy way to tell if my water pump is working or if coolant is passing through like it should be?
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oldturboman Offline
Member
#8
Small molded hose on L/side under intake is 3/8.Couldn't get a molded one so I went to a truck shop and bought a piece long enough to not kink,I am looking into getting it in silicone.Don't think Ford makes it any longer.Hope This Helps oldturboman

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1-1987 Auto 1-1987 5sp. 1-1988 Auto All Turbo T-Birds NATO Member
1-1987 Auto 1-1987 5sp. Both Turbo T-Birds NATO Member
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Pete D Offline
Administrator
#9
Assume your water pump is working or the engine would have burned up already. You could: A. leave all the coolant in the system (not hot, kids don't try this at home,) crawl under the car, remove the hose and then see if you get drenched by a full stream of water or just a dribble [Image: biggrin.gif] OR B. you could drain the system, remove the fitting and examine it
Pete Dunham


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B_Lieder Offline
Senior Member
#10
Quote:Originally posted by Pete D:
crawl under the car, remove the hose and then see if you get drenched by a full stream of water or just a dribble

Just make sure your mouth isn;t open. I have a problem everytime i lift my arm above my head under a car my mouth is always somewhat open. And lwet me tell you.it ain't kool-aid..... [Image: eek.gif]



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Bill Lieder
MODS: Ported big valve head with ss valves, ported upper & lower intakes, Racer Walsh #2 Roller cam, Walboro 255HP pump, Kirban adjustable FPR, 3" Exhaust, Star stage 2 clutch w/ stage 3 pp, K&N cone, Gillis valve, Race engineering adjustable cam sproket, 245 50 16 Bridgestone tires
Bill L
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