Question for everybody about the bell houseing. long?

Question: A year ago I had my engine redone and now my transmission has a crack in it. The bell housing is cracked in half. I don't see any other way that this could happen unless the tranny was mis alligned when they installed my engine back in place. I have never seen this happen nor has anyone else that I have asked. They assume that when the tranny was lined up they torqued one side and then the other while it was missed aligned which caused a difference in load. I have never had the drive train messed with at least from the engine and tranny, had a new driveshaft put in and that is all but that doesn't involve removing the tranny. Also I have never seen this question pop up on the boards. In your opinion what could have caused the bell houseing to crack? If it was misalligned, then how does this effect the tranny? I am asking so cause this is a major repair for me and my finances. Also I might be able to get it paid for from the auto place that put my engine in. So if everybody could voice there thoughts it would be much help. I will get pics of what it looks like so everyone can reevaluate. Also now that I think about my u-joints didn't start going out until about 4 months after the engine was put in. So this is big for me. Thanks to all of you TC lovers.

Is the transmission cracked and the bell housing also, or is it just one of them? Which one? Also what was originally misaligned? Was it the bell housing not going over the dowel pin on one side so that it wasn't flat against the back of the block.
If that was it, the tranny would never be lined up with the other components. Further if they used the transmission to bell housing bolts to draw the transmission into postion, that is just flat out incompetence. You never use the bolts to draw the tranny into place.
If it doesn't slide to within 0.5" of the bellhousing, then something is not lined up.
Other things that may have been damaged by the misalignment include the pilot bearing, the main bearings in the engine from abnormal side load, the input shaft and bearings in the trans, the U joints. Maybe somebody else could speak to potential damage of the rear axle (pinion gear shaft??)


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NATO Member
88 TC X 2, 86 SVO, Main TC with K&N, 3"DP to 2.5"duals through Dynamax, Ric valve at 17+ and disconnected KS. Elite Bodega 16" chrome wheels. Autometer pod w/ A/F and Vac/boost gauges.140 mph Motorsports Speedo New engine: Total Seal rings and TRW pistons, ported and polished head w/ cc'd chambers,1.59"exhausts, SS valves, gutted upper, knife edged lower, A-230 cam, Race Engineering Adj Cam Sprocket, Crowlers, ARP head studs, and rod bolts. Walbro 255 HP pump and Kirban adj FPR, T-3. Centerforce II, KB subs and jack rails.

Just the bellhouseing is cracked according to the mechanic i will check it out later.

I don't know I will check it out when I see the old trans today. They are giving me the old trans back. will post pics when i get it back.

Ok more infor all bolt holes that mount it up to engine on the passenger side and a 1/2in into the bellhousing is where it cracked. The starter bolt holes are the only ones that were on that side of the bellhousing. Unfortunately I couldn't just a bellhousing had to get a trans but the stupid junkyard that he got it from brought over the trans but forgot to bring the bellhousing. And that is why I am buying that trans for. I will be gettign the old trans back and I will be taking pictures but I don't understand how that could've happened. I am puzzled.

I have seen this only one time in all my years of working on cars, and it was caused by a fool with a impact wrench pulling the tranny down by the bolts. Instead of making sure everything was lined up, and that was on a 69 chevelle with a muncie m22 4 speed .You should make sure who ever put your motor in pays for this.The only other way to bust a bellhousing is a flywheel or clutch failure.
Well thats my opinion
Scott