North American Turbocoupe Organization



Project Progress - pictures and updates
natmac3 Offline
Administrator
#1
I haven't been online as much as I used to be, and I certainly haven't posted anything having to do with my car, but that doesn't mean I haven't been sneaking in some work sessions as time allows.

I plan to have the car ready for Englishtown's Road Course by August 13th, so I can try to run a few break-in laps.

Here's what's done-

12" K&N cone
60-1 equiv. "holset hybrid" turbo
FMIC w/ modified DSM Gen1 BPV
Ranger Radiator w/custom shroud and slim fan
65mm Throttle Body
Custom tubular upper intake/ ported lower
Lightly ported rebuilt head
BoPort 1.9 cam w/ adj cam gear
Stinger header w/spacer, oil feed, oil drain
38mm External Wastegate (freebie from a friend!)
Looped cooling hoses w/new feed to oil "cooler"
46pph Injectors
Steeda Tri-ax (Stinger's wasn't available then)

I still have a LOT to do before August though. The suspension is going to get "freshened up" with goodies from Maximum Motorsports. The brakes will be redone with EBC pads/rotors. The clutch and flywheel will be replaced with bits from Spec and Fidanza, with ARP hardware. Chuck's Motor Mounts are waiting next to the lightweight starter. The new seats/harnesses will be mounted. The Downpipe needs redone to match Stinger's header and I'll need to run the flex-pipe for the wastegate dump. I'm sure I'm forgetting something here, but it kills to me to see all this stuff just sitting, while I don't have enough time to install it all right now.

http://natomessageboard.com/uploads/0000...C_0097.jpg

http://natomessageboard.com/uploads/0000...C_0098.jpg

http://natomessageboard.com/uploads/0000...C_0099.jpg

I hope the pictures load up properly.
-Nate
1987tc
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Stinger Offline
Senior Member
#2
Looking good!
www.Stinger-Performance.com

85 TC
85 SVO
86 SVO
87 Merkur
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natmac3 Offline
Administrator
#3
Thanx!

Today I started it for the 1st time since last October!

I rechecked cam, crank, dist for proper timing.
I had to tweak the throttle cable bracket I fabbed, because it wasn't returning fully. TPS voltage was off a bit at idle- no biggy. Also had to tweak a bracket to relocate the Coolant Overflow Reservoir.

For now, it still has the VAM, and since my IC piping and turbo location are different than with the GNIC I had previously, I had to re-fab the bracket to support the VAM.

Topped up all fluids, re-checked electrical connections, hooked up the battery- and it fired right up! I was really pleased since I've changed so much since the last time it ran.

Wish it always went this smoothly.
Now I gotta finish the downpipe and wastegate dump, then it's time to address the suspension.
I don't think it'll be ready for Aug 13th at Englishtown, but I'm plugging away!

-Nate
1987tc
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natmac3 Offline
Administrator
#4
Today I ran it up to normal operating temp with no real problems.

I'll have to refab a bracket for the VAM and relocate the air filter, because the way I have it now isn't working well. It is pointed downward toward the lower radiator support. With the bypass valve right after it, the fairly lumpy cam, and the weight of the flapper door itself, it doesn't want to start happily or idle properly. No biggie.

I pieced together a temp downpipe to get me to my welder's shop so I can finalize the exhaust early next week.

Can't wait to get started on the suspension bits!
-Nate
1987tc
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jmthunderbirdturbo Offline
Posting Freak
#5
may need to tighten the apring a bit to account for the airflow of the big turbo. Email me for more info if needed.

-J0N
APRIL 2018 - LOOKING FOR A NEW CAR. PM me if you have an 87-88 roller or cheap TF for sale.
1988 TC 5MT-Blue/Blue check-off car. resto-project.
2006 Honda Odyssey 5AT, baby-mobile.
2013 F-150, 5.0, 6AT, 4x4, snow white paint.
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natmac3 Offline
Administrator
#6
Thanx Jon, I might take you up on that if it still acts funny after I get it sitting horizontal again.

I had considered running it BTV style after reading your write-up, but since I plan on eliminating the VAM completely in the next couple months, I figured I'd just go the normal-mount-route for now.

On a side-note:
If anyone purchases the caster/camber plates from Maximum Motorsports (MMCC8388), be sure to check the little hardware bag that comes with the kit. The (2) nylok nuts for locating the spherical bearing were one size too small. The correct 3/8" coarse thread nylok nuts were available at Home Depot for a couple bucks, so it was an easy fix.

-Nate
1987tc
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natmac3 Offline
Administrator
#7
Today I was able to remount the VAM, and change the routing to the air filter, and valve cover breathers. This seems to have taken care of the idle "issue".

I put some rubber "bumper" between my homemade radiator fan shroud and the radiator to reduce vibration and noise. Should've done that in the 1st place.

For anyone who wants an easy project- just grab an appropriately sized metal cooking sheet or serving tray, mark the diameter of your fan, cut it out and paint it high-temp-black. Mount the fan to the shroud, and instant DIY success!

I also had the base ignition timing WAY off, must've bumped the aux gear when I did the cam swap, but that was an easy fix.

I think I messed up somewhere in my coolant hose routing too, since my Summit Temp Gauge isn't budging even though the factory gauge is showing normal temps.

I'm open to criticism/suggestions on this- here's how the system is routed now:

-Thermostat bypass nipple & water pump nipple are connected.

The rest of the system is as follows:

-Upper rad hose has a tee feeding the oil "cooler", then the oil cooler outlet runs thru the Summit Temp Sender and into the Lower Intake Manifold.

I figured the flow would come from the pump, thru the rad, into the tee, to the oil cooler, to the sender, into the head thru the lower intake, and back out the water pump. Guess not!

The hose running off the tee on the upper rad hose does get very hot to touch, so I it has to be getting flow thru it, right? The Summit gauge worked perfectly prior to mounting it in this location though, so I botched something.

At least it is running, and I was able to drive it briefly today for the first time since last October! I attached a picture showing the new vam/filter routing.

http://natomessageboard.com/uploads/0000...C_0104.jpg

Any thoughts on the coolant hose routing would be helpful. Thanks!
-Nate
1987tc
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86XR7auto Offline
Moderator
#8
Interesting setup! Good luck on August 13!

Travis
86XR7 in pieces...old time [email protected] http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kGsz7PdEqTI 88TC stock Red RHSC [email protected], 01 Z71=Nice winter ride, 01 CVLX w/HPP wifes ride!
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natmac3 Offline
Administrator
#9
Got a chance to drive it a few miles today. It was nice! It's running smoothly albeit a bit on the hot side, but it was 94* outside.

I think I'm going to need a larger fan and/or radiator. It IS possible there's a bubble in the system, or maybe the thermostat isn't opening- I'll check that this weekend.

I also procured some (1 x 2 x .120) rectangular steel tubing to fab subframe connectors this weekend. I had them cut in 65" sections, and I'll probably trim them down to 63" to run from the front of the front subframes back to just in front of the LCA mounts on the rear subframe.

Expect updates as they happen, and hopefully more pictures after the weekend progress.
-Nate
1987tc
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natmac3 Offline
Administrator
#10
Well today was slow progress.

I trimmed the steel tubing to 64" so it'll fit from just after the bend in the front rails all the way back to just before the rear lca pickup points.

http://natomessageboard.com/uploads/0000...C_0106.jpg

Then I tried to get the TurboChuck motor mounts installed, and decided to call it a day before even finishing one side.

I wish I would've had these before I bolted anything else to the longblock, because it is just short of impossible to pull the stock mounts with the manifolds/turbo/etc in the way.

I started on the passenger-side and was trying to get it done without pulling the header/turbo, but that's not gonna happen. It was slow going to pull all the nuts/bolts, and I finally got to the last bolt on the block (the upper one on the back), and realized after I had it broken loose that I had 2 big problems.

1. I can't get the wrench off once the bolt is loosened even 1.5 turns.
2. The bolt hits the header before it is even halfway out.

So, tomorrow I guess I'm pulling the turbo/header and finishing the passenger-side mount.

Hopefully I can get more done tomorrow!
-Nate
1987tc
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