North American Turbocoupe Organization



Pressure testing the intake.
Chas K 88 Offline
Member
#1
When pressure testing the intake are we supposed to have a big leak at the EGR valve stem? I expected a small leak at the throttle body but the EGR leaks BAD!
I pressure tested mine to try to find a vacuum leak and it leaks bad at the stem blowing directly on the diaphragm that pulls the EGR valve open. I replaced the EGR and the new one was worse, I replaced the new one and the 2nd new one leaked. I'm takeing the 2nd new one back and putting the original one back on because it gave me the best vacuum reading, 15" warm.
How am I supposed to find the small leaks when there is such a big noisy leak that I cant fix, and being such a big leak I'm sure it's part of my low vacuum problem. I did see a post from Jeff K recently stateing that it was common for new valves to leak but how much is acceptable?
I got both new valves at Autozone because they were cheapest is that why they both leak? Maybe I should try Napa because they were most expensive.

What do you guys think?

Chas
Chas K
Current setup - 88 T-bird, 5 speed, vacuum assist master cylinder, T3/T4 50 trim turbo from Bo-port, oil feed & return lines, 3” turbo down elbow, 3" to 2.5" dual exhaust and PiMPx from Stinger 255LPH fuel pump, CD, trip-minder, RR , K&N, 140 MPH speedo conversion (thanks Jeff K).
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Pete D Offline
Posting Freak
#2
The couple used ones I have tested leaked + pressure but I can't say how much vacuum they leaked because I didn't specifically test for it. I never tested a new one.
Pete Dunham
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Chas K 88 Offline
Member
#3
What I ought to do is make a plate to block off the EGR and test the vacuum then I would know how much is being lost.
Chas K
Current setup - 88 T-bird, 5 speed, vacuum assist master cylinder, T3/T4 50 trim turbo from Bo-port, oil feed & return lines, 3” turbo down elbow, 3" to 2.5" dual exhaust and PiMPx from Stinger 255LPH fuel pump, CD, trip-minder, RR , K&N, 140 MPH speedo conversion (thanks Jeff K).
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