North American Turbocoupe Organization



PRC Riding rough
88turbomajor Offline
Member
#11
(07-17-2020, 01:25 PM)Jeff K Wrote: Use a DMM an ohm out the rotary solenoid coils ( should be just a few ohms, and use a 12 supply, battery etc to briefly energize the solenoid and see if it rotates 90 degrees or so. Switching the polarity on the 12 V supply should make the rotary solenoid rotate the other direction.

Also use a needle nose pliers to rotate the actuator on the top of the strut / shock. It should rotate easily. If it doesnt, a drop or 2 of oil down the actuator rod hole may free it up. I had to do that several years ago on one of my front struts, and the strut has been working fine since.

Hi Jeff,

I was able to fix it.   It was the left front actuator.  Something told me to take it apart again and I started moving the stator back and forth and it kept sticking on something.  I took out the stator (windings) and the "C" shaped flat copper contact had a ripple in it.  I took a small screwdriver and pressed on it to flatten it out.  I put the winding back in and it moved freely.  I reinstalled the actuator and took her for a ride.   No more flashing light, and the system works as it should.

Thanks for the tips!  Sometimes, ya just gotta take it apart and look around.  Both actuators had a little goo on the contacts, but the bumpers were all in great shape.
[attachment=1574]
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Jeff K Offline
Administrator
#12
Good job!! Glad to hear you got it fixed!!
Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
11 Crown Vic Interceptor
14 Toyota Camry (wifes car)
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized
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Mikey97D Offline
Senior Member
#13
(07-22-2020, 01:43 AM)88turbomajor Wrote:
(07-17-2020, 01:25 PM)Jeff K Wrote: Use a DMM an ohm out the rotary solenoid coils ( should be just a few ohms, and use a 12 supply, battery etc to briefly energize the solenoid and see if it rotates 90 degrees or so. Switching the polarity on the 12 V supply should make the rotary solenoid rotate the other direction.

Also use a needle nose pliers to rotate the actuator on the top of the strut / shock. It should rotate easily. If it doesnt, a drop or 2 of oil down the actuator rod hole may free it up. I had to do that several years ago on one of my front struts, and the strut has been working fine since.

Hi Jeff,

I was able to fix it.   It was the left front actuator.  Something told me to take it apart again and I started moving the stator back and forth and it kept sticking on something.  I took out the stator (windings) and the "C" shaped flat copper contact had a ripple in it.  I took a small screwdriver and pressed on it to flatten it out.  I put the winding back in and it moved freely.  I reinstalled the actuator and took her for a ride.   No more flashing light, and the system works as it should.

Thanks for the tips!  Sometimes, ya just gotta take it apart and look around.  Both actuators had a little goo on the contacts, but the bumpers were all in great shape.
Thank you for updating this thread and adding pictures.
1988 TC, 5 spd, Stinger 3" Exhaust, Schneider Roller Cam, -4° Cam Pulley, Cone Filter, Gilles Boost Control Valve set at 17 psi, Walbro 255 lph, CHE Rear Lower and Upper Control Arms, Braided Brake Lines, Hawk HPS 5.0 Front and HPS (F) Rear, CRES Inserts in front calipers, and '93 Cobra Wheels with General 235/50R17 Tires.   
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88turbomajor Offline
Member
#14
(07-22-2020, 01:43 AM)88turbomajor Wrote:
(07-17-2020, 01:25 PM)Jeff K Wrote: Use a DMM an ohm out the rotary solenoid coils ( should be just a few ohms, and use a 12 supply, battery etc to briefly energize the solenoid and see if it rotates 90 degrees or so. Switching the polarity on the 12 V supply should make the rotary solenoid rotate the other direction.

Also use a needle nose pliers to rotate the actuator on the top of the strut / shock. It should rotate easily. If it doesnt, a drop or 2 of oil down the actuator rod hole may free it up. I had to do that several years ago on one of my front struts, and the strut has been working fine since.

Hi Jeff,

I was able to fix it.   It was the left front actuator.  Something told me to take it apart again and I started moving the stator back and forth and it kept sticking on something.  I took out the stator (windings) and the "C" shaped flat copper contact had a ripple in it.  I took a small screwdriver and pressed on it to flatten it out.  I put the winding back in and it moved freely.  I reinstalled the actuator and took her for a ride.   No more flashing light, and the system works as it should.

Thanks for the tips!  Sometimes, ya just gotta take it apart and look around.  Both actuators had a little goo on the contacts, but the bumpers were all in great shape.


Hi Jeff,

the fix only lasted two days.  Not sure why it's acting up now.  It still spins freely.
My only choice for now is to deactivate the system.   What are those steps?  Just unplug the actuators on all for towers?  Or, do that and unplug the computer too in the trunk.  That leads to another question, where is it?  See pic.  What side is the computer on?  Please let me know.  I just want it to ride OK until I can get non-PRC replacements.

Joe
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