North American Turbocoupe Organization



PRC Riding rough
88turbomajor Offline
Junior Member
#1
Hi, 

I'm brand new to the T-coupe scene and am noticing that when My PRC is in auto, the car rides ok, but the light has started flashing and 2), when the PRC is in the firm setting, some of the shocks ride firm and one just bounces up and down.   

Is it worth fixing the PRC system, or just put some nice shocks and struts on, unplug the system and call it a day?

Any suggestions?   Type of front struts/shocks to use, and what type for the rear.  

thanks!
Reply

Mikey97D Offline
Member
#2
The one shock just bouncing up and down does not sound good and may not be repairable. You can read through this link a little bit about the system: https://turbotbird.com/old/faqs/#Program...20Problems

If you decide to replace the shocks there are better options from the mustangs than Thunderbird. The rear shocks on the Thunderbird are longer so you will need to get brackets that can be found on https://tbirdcougarparts.com/

If you are going to replace the shocks/struts I would suggest doing some searching on here what others have already done.
1988 TC, 5 spd, Stinger 3" Exhaust, Schneider Roller Cam, -4° Cam Pulley, Cone Filter, Gilles Boost Control Valve set at 17 psi, CHE Rear Lower and Upper Control Arms, Braided Brake Lines, Hawk HPS 5.0 Front and HPS (F) Rear, CRES Inserts in front calipers, and '93 Cobra Wheels with General 235/50R17 Tires.   
andrewjs18 likes this post
Reply

Jeff K Offline
Administrator
#3
Code 2 indicates one of the PRC rotary actuators (I forget which one off hand, but I THINK it is the driver side front) either is not switching properly or the internal switch is not telling the PRC computer the actuator has switched. From your description, it sounds like one actuator is not switching. They can get gummed up internally, but can be taken apart and cleaned up and repaired. I THINK there is a list of the PRC actuator codes somewhere in the tech articles, as well as a description of how to repair them.
Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
05 Taurus SEL Duratec daily driver
04 Taurus Duratec (wifes car)
02 Pontiac Grand Prix GT
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized
Reply

Mikey97D Offline
Member
#4
(07-08-2020, 11:02 PM)Jeff K Wrote: Code 2 indicates one of the PRC rotary actuators (I forget which one off hand, but I THINK it is the driver side front) either is not switching properly or the internal switch is not telling the PRC computer the actuator has switched. From your description, it sounds like one actuator is not switching. They can get gummed up internally, but can be taken apart and cleaned up and repaired.  I THINK there is a list of the PRC actuator codes somewhere in the tech articles, as well as a description of how to repair them.
The codes are in the link I put up above.  I believe that list was written by you in the tech articles.
1988 TC, 5 spd, Stinger 3" Exhaust, Schneider Roller Cam, -4° Cam Pulley, Cone Filter, Gilles Boost Control Valve set at 17 psi, CHE Rear Lower and Upper Control Arms, Braided Brake Lines, Hawk HPS 5.0 Front and HPS (F) Rear, CRES Inserts in front calipers, and '93 Cobra Wheels with General 235/50R17 Tires.   
Reply

88turbomajor Offline
Junior Member
#5
(07-08-2020, 02:15 PM)Mikey97D Wrote: The one shock just bouncing up and down does not sound good and may not be repairable.  You can read through this link a little bit about the system:  https://turbotbird.com/old/faqs/#Program...20Problems

If you decide to replace the shocks there are better options from the mustangs than Thunderbird.  The rear shocks on the Thunderbird are longer so you will need to get brackets that can be found on https://tbirdcougarparts.com/

If you are going to replace the shocks/struts I would suggest doing some searching on here what others have already done.

thanks for the info!  I'll look around more.
Reply

88turbomajor Offline
Junior Member
#6
(07-09-2020, 02:01 PM)Mikey97D Wrote:
(07-08-2020, 11:02 PM)Jeff K Wrote: Code 2 indicates one of the PRC rotary actuators (I forget which one off hand, but I THINK it is the driver side front) either is not switching properly or the internal switch is not telling the PRC computer the actuator has switched. From your description, it sounds like one actuator is not switching. They can get gummed up internally, but can be taken apart and cleaned up and repaired.  I THINK there is a list of the PRC actuator codes somewhere in the tech articles, as well as a description of how to repair them.
The codes are in the link I put up above.  I believe that list was written by you in the tech articles.

I'll look into it.  Thank you!
Reply

88turbomajor Offline
Junior Member
#7
Hi, in the article it said to squeeze the white clips to remove the actuator from the top of the shock.  I can't seem to find the white clips to remove the actuator. I see the metal retaining clip and can get to that....

See pic.


Attached Files Image(s)
   
Reply

Jeff K Offline
Administrator
#8
The white clips are on the PRC actuators on the rear shocks only. Have a look at the top of the shocks in the trunk. The white clips are attached to the PRC rear actuators by the same 2 Phillips screws you see on the front PRC actuators.

To remove the PRC actuators on the front struts, simply remove the 2 Phillips head screws in your pic. Actuator comes apart by prying up the tabs in your pic with a small screwdriver. To put it back together. Use a vise grips to compress the tabs back in place.

When testing the actuators with a 12 V power supply, battery, etc only energize them for a second or less. Applying 12 V for more than a few seconds will burn out the magnet coil.
Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
05 Taurus SEL Duratec daily driver
04 Taurus Duratec (wifes car)
02 Pontiac Grand Prix GT
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized
Reply

88turbomajor Offline
Junior Member
#9
Hi,

Was able to take them off and I don't see all the Goo folks are talking about......just a little rust on the outside of the winding.....sending pic.

Also, Can I drive the car with these both off of the front? 

thanks!

UPDATE: I cleaned the contacts at the bottom (curved metal contacts) and sanded the rust off of the stator. There was a little black goo if you will.

I put them back together and put them back on the car. No change. In AUTO mode, the light still blinks.

I'll try to


Attached Files Image(s)
       
Reply

Jeff K Offline
Administrator
#10
Use a DMM an ohm out the rotary solenoid coils ( should be just a few ohms, and use a 12 supply, battery etc to briefly energize the solenoid and see if it rotates 90 degrees or so. Switching the polarity on the 12 V supply should make the rotary solenoid rotate the other direction.

Also use a needle nose pliers to rotate the actuator on the top of the strut / shock. It should rotate easily. If it doesnt, a drop or 2 of oil down the actuator rod hole may free it up. I had to do that several years ago on one of my front struts, and the strut has been working fine since.
Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
05 Taurus SEL Duratec daily driver
04 Taurus Duratec (wifes car)
02 Pontiac Grand Prix GT
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized
Reply





Users browsing this thread:
1 Guest(s)



Theme © iAndrew 2018 - Software MyBB