North American Turbocoupe Organization

PRC - Good news, bad news....
wbrco Offline
Been around a long time
So, after doing a bunch of troubleshooting this weekend, I've narrowed down my problems with the PRC giving me codes.

I followed the trouble tree in the service manual and in the end I got to "actuator and shock binding - replace shock and actuator".

I have spare actuators and already tried swapping them out. What I found is that the pin in the strut is very difficult to turn. I tried lubricating them, and that helped, but not enough.
What was throwing me off was that the codes would swap from LF to RF depending on what I was doing.

So, I have 1 spare strut. I've been in contact with an eBay seller for a couple of more.

So... My question - I read the service manual on strut replacement, and it references replacing the inner strut mount as well as the strut by removing the top 3 bolts (leaving the rivet). It looks like the strut just goes up through the mount. Do I really need to dis assemble the upper mount to just replace the strut? If I pull that, then I have to have an alignment etc.

It looks like I can just jack the car up from the lower control arm, pull the wheel (and caliper?) and run the top and side bolts out..

Any practical tips/tricks or am I on the right track?

1988 TurboCoupe 5 Speed - 50,XXX Miles, stock as a rock. I drove it off the showroom floor in January 1989....

joejo Offline
no just remove the big nut
88 tc
t3/4 50 trim stage 2 .48, bo 1.5 cam, lightly ported e6,stinger 3 inch ex., mild intake porting, basic cone filter, kirban, new motor (factory rods, .020 cp pistons, stock head specs).coolingmist injection, esslinger cam pulley.

lonstar7 Offline
Posting Freak
It's easier to remove and install the strut if you remove the the top mount, but not absolutely necessary. you will need to pull the wheel, the caliper, the rotor, rotor shield and and remove the 2 bolts on top of the spindle. I would recommend supporting the car on the frame, it's a lot easier to remove and install the strut if you let the A arm drop down some but be careful not to let it drop too far as the spring can pop out with some considerable force and hit you if your in the way. I put a jack under the A arm to to keep it stable while you work and keep a little compression on the spring.
There is no alignment adjustment on the stock strut tower mount, it should bolt back in place pretty close to where it was but I would have the alinement checked anyway when you change the struts.

1988 Black/Red TC, 5 Speed, 92,400miles (on 4/14/2012). KYB Shocks And Struts, 140MPH Speedo, CHE Rear Control Arms, Otherwise Stock.

2005 Volkswagon Golf GLS 1.9L TDI Turbo Diesel, 5 Speed Manual, InMotion Stage II Chip Tuning

1998 Dodge Ram 2500 4X4, 5.9L Cummings Turbo Diesel, 5 Speed Manual

1988 Firebird Formula 350, 350ci Tuned Port Injection, 700R4 Auto

wbrco Offline
Been around a long time
Thanks lonstar7!

So I'm confused. If there is no alignment adjustment on the mount, what is that multi-hole piece under the reward nut on the top of the strut mount? It looks like this is some sort of adjustment.

I guess I'll have to go back and look in the manual..

While I'm in there, is there anything else that could use a little preventative maintenance? Brakes are all good. I'll check bushings etc. of course, but is there anything specific I should look for?

1988 TurboCoupe 5 Speed - 50,XXX Miles, stock as a rock. I drove it off the showroom floor in January 1989....

zbird Offline
Posting Freak
It is an adjustment point. You would have to drill out the rivet while it is on the alignment machine and they re-rivet it. You do not need to touch that to remove the upper mounts. Just do as Lonstar7 said and you should be fine.
Dom Z
88 T/C med grey. 140 MPH Speedo, Kirban FPR, Gillis valve,Tripminder, K&N.
87 T/C Silver, Auto (project Daily driver)
99 F150 4x4
14 Ford Escape 2.0L Turbo
88 T/C
87 Silver

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