North American Turbocoupe Organization



Power Window
Noname
Unregistered
#1
ok my power window has slipped off the track assembly, I have reattached the glass andholder with silocone and it worked for a while but then yesterday it came off again , now I was thinking of dilling a ahole through it to keep it on but then I thought it would split eventailly, so I thought maybe an epoxy or even superglue. anybody else had that happena and have a solution that worked well.
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Nate K Offline
Posting Freak
#2
You need to get some windshield Urethane adhesive. You can find it in most parts stores like NAPA, etc. It's made by 3M, Sika, ESS, QuickDry and few others. Take some emery cloth or mild sandpaper and roughen up both the inside of the clips and the glass where the clips go. Next drill 1 or 2 small holes (drill bit size either 3/16 to 1/4 inch in diameter) into each clip. This hole(s) will allow the urethane to escape, preventing air pockets, as well as acting like an anchor pin. This hole(s) is the trick to getting a good bond between the clip and glass. After drilling the holes and scuffing the clips and glass, clean both the glass contact areas and plastic clips well with acetone or alcohol (be careful with acetone, it will eat plastic quick). Once it's clean and dry you can apply the urethane. Seat the window in the clips and put the window all the way up. Leave it up for at least 48 hours to allow the urethane to fully cure.

DO NOT waste your time or money on rear view mirror glue, silicone, or other regular glues and adhesives. Yes they will hold it, but only for a limited period of time before they separate again. Do it right, Do it once! The glass is very heavy and there is alot of pressure applied to it going up and down.
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Birdman78758 Offline
Senior Member
#3
I finally got around to checking the adhesive supplied to me by a automotive glass shop. It's made by Essex and the tube was U-418HV Quick Cure Urethane Adhesive.

Allow AT LEAST 2-4 days curing time.
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Pete D Offline
Administrator
#4
In addition to what Nate recommended, make sure all sliding/moving parts move free and easy. When I did mine I found the glide bar that the window glass attaches to was full of a sand like substance and moved stiffly. I think this may have had something to do with the glass pulling out in the first place + it puts more strain on the motor. I spent quite awhile cleaning the slide and lubed everything. It's working well now and has held up for almost 1 year.

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88 TC X 2, 86 SVO, Main TC with K&N, 3"DP to 2.5"duals through Dynamax, Ric valve at 17+ and disconnected KS.
Elite Bodega 16" chrome wheels. Autometer pod w/ A/F and Vac/boost gauges.140 mph Motorsports Speedo New engine: Total Seal rings and TRW pistons, ported and polished head w/ cc'd chambers,1.59"exhausts, SS valves, gutted upper, knife edged lower, A-230 cam, Race Engineering Adj Cam Sprocket, Crowlers, ARP head studs, and rod bolts. Walbro 255 HP pump and Kirban adj FPR, T-3. Centerforce II, KB subs and jack rails.

[This message has been edited by Pete D (edited 10-29-2001).]
Pete Dunham


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