North American Turbocoupe Organization



power door lock will not stay unlocked
trashline Offline
Posting Freak
#1
I did a search with no results on my question. So time to ask.

My driver door will not stay unlocked. I open it with the key, i can get in the car. When I get out the inside handle opens the door with no problem, but when I try to get back in I need to use the key. When I hit the door unlock button it unlocks and locks the passanger door but nothing with the driver door.

Do those door lock acutators have some kind of safety in them to stay locked? It really stinks having to get a ride home for my spare key when I go to a fire call at night.

Thanks
Brian

www.BCPCustom.com

06 Cobalt SS
66 mustang 289 C4 handfully modded

Stingers IC install and tbird photos
http://community.webshots.com/user/trashline
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DonH Offline
Posting Freak
#2
No safety. It sounds like the lock motor isn't working and/or the linkage rods aren't moving. You have to get inside the door and move the mechanism by hand to determine what the problem is. The lock motors have a rubber boot on them that breaks down over time and allows water into the motor. The boot itself can tear and jam up the motor. Lack of lubrication in the latch can make it difficult for the lock to disengage.
1987 TC stock except ATR 2.5"
1983 Pontiac Transam T-top 5.7 T56 [email protected] top speed: 176mph
1978 Fairmont 2.3 4-spd Big-top S/W
1946 Willys CJ2A 134.2ci L4 No-top
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buckeye Offline
Junior Member
#3
I just had the same problem in my driver's door and the lock motor was froze in the full extended position.

Side note does anyone know ok a plce that selld those for less than 40 bucks for a new one?
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DonH Offline
Posting Freak
#4
I have used these in Fords and Lincolns with sucess. You have to be creative as to where to mount them but for $5.50 well worth the effort. Be sure and use LockTite on the screws.

http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/it...ATOR_.html
1987 TC stock except ATR 2.5"
1983 Pontiac Transam T-top 5.7 T56 [email protected] top speed: 176mph
1978 Fairmont 2.3 4-spd Big-top S/W
1946 Willys CJ2A 134.2ci L4 No-top
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Robert Camp Offline
Posting Freak
#5
The item listed for our T'birds is very expensive new, $125 to $160 at dealers and aftermarket. However, there is another motor that works if you just change the actuator arm.
Lincoln Mark VII - p/n FOLY-63218A42-A
It's considerably cheaper, shows up on Ebay frequently and only requires that you swap the acturator arms, which is a fairly easy job. Just be on the lookout for the 3 small balls that act as locks on the actuator.
Robert Camp
'86 Medium Regatta Blue TC, 5-speed, original owner.
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ipsd Offline
Member
#6
Well I guess I should chime in. you can use just about any ford lock motor. All you need is to use the arm part out of your bird motor. I got mine out of a 79 t-bird same motor jsut different arm. To swap the arm out all you need is to pop of the little clip at the base of the arm and then being carefull pull up the little metal ring right below the clip you took off. Be carefull. There are 3 metal balls that will come out. Then pull the arm stright up and out. Then do the same to the good motor. Use some steelwool to clean up the arm you are using and then greese it up with sime white lithium greese. Next put it all back together. Use the greese to hold the 3 little balls in place and then put the metal ring back over it and then install the clip. Very easy to do I did it in about 20min. So forget about getting new motors or some aftemarket units. Just head over to a salvage yard and pull some then put the tbird/cougar srm into them. Just about any ford lock motor should do the trick. I think someone has already put this in the archives but if not they need to. This is the second post that I have replied to about this. Also you can get new mustang lock motors at the part store for about $50 the you are starting with a new motor just have to put in the right arm. Also while you are at it you might want to replace the plastic bushings that hold the rod to the lock assembly
84 T/c, 88 intake,I/C, injectors, hood, PC1 ecu, E6 manifold, Brown Tops, K$N open element, BPV. Way pay to run 8 cylinders when 4 plus a turbo will get you there quicker.
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Mike C Offline
Senior Member
#7
If you search lock accuator or lock motor on EBAY I bought a new one for generic Ford, not our car, for $8-$12. Buy it now for maybe $14.. Use old arm or bent new.
Did both doors, 1 with brand new looking lock motor from a bird, had rubber cover that looked good, didn't last 4 months. The new one I put the bent rod in is still going strong.
Mike C
86 5 speed TC black with MS spats and spoiler since 88, 3.73 8.8 since 89. Fresh rebuild at 240K with new Racer Walsh roller cam, 88 hood. All 3" exhaust w/3" performance cat. 13" Cobra brakes,SFC, Max/Motorsport C/C plates,adjustable lower control arms w/ double adjustable uppers. Konis & Eibachs.
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