North American Turbocoupe Organization



Power Door Lock Switches??
Gearhead Greg44 Offline
Junior Member
#1
Hi all,

I just got a great '88 TC (thanks again, RDOG!), however I have a few issues to take care of. The most recent one came up yesterday morn. The power door lock switches no longer will UNLOCK the doors (you CAN hear the relay(s) clicking, however). Both switches will still LOCK them, but neither UNLOCK function is working. It's the same for both switches, and they both worked fine, when I bought it the day before (Sat).

Can anyone tell me where the relay(s) is/are located for the door lock actuators? Would it be possible that they're fried (ie: the low current side works, but the high current side fails to pass the voltage)??

Any help with this would be GREATLY appreciated, as I couldn't find any results for "power door lock" in here, nor over @ turboford...

Thanks,

Greg
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Pete D Offline
Administrator
#2
I can't answer yiur questio but I emailed a diagram of inside the doors
Pete Dunham


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Robert Camp Offline
Posting Freak
#3
There's one relay for lock and one for unlock. Should be under the passenger seat. Since it's the same for both, it sounds like the relay.
Robert Camp
'86 Medium Regatta Blue TC, 5-speed, original owner.
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bhazard Offline
Posting Freak
#4
Under the seat? As in attached to the floor, or the seat?

My locks, well, never lock, and sometimes unlock. I always thought I heard something clicking under the dash though.

Think its about time I do something about that.
88 TC, 170k, K&N, $5 Boostvalve, Stinger 3" ex., 3" Magnaflow, 3" Stinger tail, Zoom clutch
15.26 @ 86mph, 2.18 60' killed valvetrain & headgasket
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bhazard Offline
Posting Freak
#5
Further investigations found two relays under the drivers side dash, to the right of the column. Theyre identical, one for unlock and one for lock.

I switched the relays and was able to lock my door (drivers side door never does anything).

Guess Ill be looking for a pair of relays. Then Ill find out why the drivers side door does nothing.
88 TC, 170k, K&N, $5 Boostvalve, Stinger 3" ex., 3" Magnaflow, 3" Stinger tail, Zoom clutch
15.26 @ 86mph, 2.18 60' killed valvetrain & headgasket
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Mike C Offline
Senior Member
#6
The switch motors are replaceable, the only problem I found is that everybody lists all Fords except our T-Birds. I ordered new motors that were universal for all fords (EXCEPT T-Birds) and found that they were identical except for the arm attaching the motor to the mechanism. They had 10 misc. pieces and none that fit our lock. I just bent a new one to 90* to look similar to the original. It had been working ever since.
The whole project looked intimidating until I saw a locking motor that was not installed. I removed the new motor from it's bracket. I left the original bracket attached to the door and slipped the old motor out of the rubber grommets and slipped the new one in. This made it very simple.
Hope this helps!

Mike C
86 5 speed TC black with MS spats and spoiler since 88, 3.73 8.8 since 89. Fresh rebuild at 240K with new Racer Walsh roller cam, 88 hood. All 3" exhaust w/3" performance cat. 13" Cobra brakes,SFC, Max/Motorsport C/C plates,adjustable lower control arms w/ double adjustable uppers. Konis & Eibachs.
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Jeff K Offline
Administrator
#7
Ya, Mike, I know where you are coming from. You can get the universal "all but Tbirds" new for about $38, and a new Tbird specific for around $130. Last time I had one go bad, I got the universal one with the selection of short rods, cut the old long Tbird rod off the dead motor, and welded it to one of the short ones from the universal motor, and I was good to go.
Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
05 Taurus SEL Duratec daily driver
04 Taurus Duratec (wifes car)
02 Pontiac Grand Prix GT
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized
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ipsd Offline
Member
#8
I just took apart the T-bird ones and put the T-bird arm into the other lock motor it is very eazy no bending of the arm you use the factory arm. Just pop off the little retainer at the top of the motor and be careful casue when you lift the metal ring the ball bearings are gonna fall out. Then pull the arm stright out then put in your t-bird arm and install the bearings and the cap and e-clip. I use steel wool to clean up the t-bird arm and the ball bearings if I'm useing a junk yard lock motor.
84 T/c, 88 intake,I/C, injectors, hood, PC1 ecu, E6 manifold, Brown Tops, K$N open element, BPV. Way pay to run 8 cylinders when 4 plus a turbo will get you there quicker.
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Gearhead Greg44 Offline
Junior Member
#9
Cool, thanks guys, I think I'll look at those relays, first. Yeah, I thought the one(s) under the seat was for the fuel pump, like on Mustangs?? Anyway, I'll check them out, thanks a lot!

Later,

Greg
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Pete D Offline
Administrator
#10
I'm going to put a copy of this in the FAQ forum
Pete Dunham


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