North American Turbocoupe Organization



Pop goes the slave cylinder
anasazi4st Offline
Senior Member
#11
(05-13-2022, 12:53 PM)BradM Wrote: No need to break the retainer, just hook one side and then just unhook it after install. When it comes time to service the trans, you just compress the cylinder and hook the retainer back to hold the rod in place.

^^^ Yes.

I have tried to run without the plastic retainer in place (the ball part between the fork and slave cylinder, part of that “strap”). In my experience, you can’t release the clutch fully without that small part, so it has to stay right where it is.

And yes, that is essentially the correct way to bleed the slave cylinder. No, the cotter pin is not used for this application.

Here are those instructions:

[Image: LUK%20Bleeding%20docs.jpeg.pdf?dl=0]


NOTE TO ADMINS (particularly andrewjs18):

Is there a way we could save this as a PDF for the Tech section? Thanks!
Another proud dues-paying member.

1987 Turbo Coupe w/T5OD, 8.8 axle, grey smoke; most options. Got it in 1991 with 41K miles: 3 turbos, 2 heater cores, 1 T5OD full rebuild, 5 clutches, 1 head gasket, 2 Teves II ABS units, etc. later....
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vegas_ss Offline
Senior Member
#12
All fixed... did the "pump the slave 30x" and no bubbles were present in the reservoir, slipped it in with the retainer unstrapped and all is good! The old one didn't have the plastic retainer, the boot and rod were still there held on by the cover. The old slave just snapped right below the boot.

Thanks everyone for the tips and suggestions!
1987 TC, 5sp, Boport Stage 3 Head/2.1 Cam
1996 Impala SS, DCM, Borla Cat Back, too much other stuff!!!
2009 Pontiac G8 GXP 6M, 6.2l LS3, Kooks Long Tube, Hi Flo Cats, Mild Cam
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BradM Offline
Member
#13
Did you figure out why it broke?
1965 Mercury Comet Caliente; 1968 Mercury Monterey; 1969 F100 Ranger; 1987 Thunderbird Turbo Coupe
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vegas_ss Offline
Senior Member
#14
(05-17-2022, 12:14 PM)BradM Wrote: Did you figure out why it broke?

Not really sure on that.  I can only guess that due to heat and age? The plastic housing broke right below the rubber boot.  Clutch seems fine, although a much heavier pedal than my G8 GXP but I think that its not quite as heavy as before.

It always felt normal until I got the G8, then when I would drive the tbird after the G8 it felt REALLY heavy, I'll see what I think after the next time I drive it after the G8.

Clutch engages smoothly and trans shifts fine so I think all is good... for now!
1987 TC, 5sp, Boport Stage 3 Head/2.1 Cam
1996 Impala SS, DCM, Borla Cat Back, too much other stuff!!!
2009 Pontiac G8 GXP 6M, 6.2l LS3, Kooks Long Tube, Hi Flo Cats, Mild Cam
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firebirdparts Offline
Member
#15
That's a little worriesome. I don't think there's much of a process for the hydraulic part of the rig to get harder to move. I suppose the bore could have been getting scuffed up, but it would have leaked if that was the case.
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