North American Turbocoupe Organization



Pop goes the slave cylinder
vegas_ss Offline
Senior Member
#1
Luckily I wasn't too far from home, steeped on the clutch and POP goes to the floor and flops around.  Was able to start the car in second gear and get back home.  Took a look underneath and the slave cylinder is just hanging there, but the rod and boot are broken off.  I can see the slave cover is still in place.  Not sure if the broken pieces of the slave cylinder fell inside the bell housing or what.  

I do know the clutch pedal has been pretty heavy and takes a good amount of force to depress, it's a stock type valeo ctutch that when first put in had a pretty soft pedal, not sure if the change in pedal pressure is due to the clutch or slave cylinder.

No telling how old the slave cylinder is but at least 18 years since I've had the car.

Will a slave cylinder cause a hard pedal or is that just the clutch?

Looking on rockauto seems the luk is pretty popular.  I see there is an O ring and a pin, the O ring I assume is for the hydraulic line?  Waht is the pin for?  

Any tips in installation?

LUK Slave Cylinder
1987 TC, 5sp, Boport Stage 3 Head/2.1 Cam
1996 Impala SS, DCM, Borla Cat Back, too much other stuff!!!
2009 Pontiac G8 GXP 6M, 6.2l LS3, Kooks Long Tube, Hi Flo Cats, Mild Cam
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BradM Offline
Member
#2
I just did a LUK. The roll pin holds the line into the cylinder. You'll need to drive the old one out with a small punch. Easy install but be gentle with the line. I did a gravity bleed and all is good.
1965 Mercury Comet Caliente; 1968 Mercury Monterey; 1969 F100 Ranger; 1987 Thunderbird Turbo Coupe
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vegas_ss Offline
Senior Member
#3
(05-06-2022, 10:49 PM)BradM Wrote: I just did a LUK. The roll pin holds the line into the cylinder. You'll need to drive the old one out with a small punch. Easy install but be gentle with the line. I did a gravity bleed and all is good.

Thanks...  I wonder how hard it will be with the slave cylinder just hanging there.  I'll probably need to get a helper to hold it while I drive the pin out.  Hope the rod end didn't fall in the bell housing.  Guess I'll see when I get the new one and attempt the install.

Did you notice any difference in pedal force needed?  I'm wondering if that's why the slave snapped?
1987 TC, 5sp, Boport Stage 3 Head/2.1 Cam
1996 Impala SS, DCM, Borla Cat Back, too much other stuff!!!
2009 Pontiac G8 GXP 6M, 6.2l LS3, Kooks Long Tube, Hi Flo Cats, Mild Cam
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BradM Offline
Member
#4
The rod should be fine and is held in place by a rubber boot. I wonder if your throw out bearing is hanging up on the input shaft retainer and caused the slave to break. You should be able to move the clutch fork very easily. You'll know soon enough once you're down there.
1965 Mercury Comet Caliente; 1968 Mercury Monterey; 1969 F100 Ranger; 1987 Thunderbird Turbo Coupe
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anasazi4st Offline
Senior Member
#5
(05-06-2022, 10:27 PM)vegas_ss Wrote: Luckily I wasn't too far from home, steeped on the clutch and POP goes to the floor and flops around.  Was able to start the car in second gear and get back home.  Took a look underneath and the slave cylinder is just hanging there, but the rod and boot are broken off.  I can see the slave cover is still in place.  Not sure if the broken pieces of the slave cylinder fell inside the bell housing or what.  

I do know the clutch pedal has been pretty heavy and takes a good amount of force to depress, it's a stock type valeo ctutch that when first put in had a pretty soft pedal, not sure if the change in pedal pressure is due to the clutch or slave cylinder.

No telling how old the slave cylinder is but at least 18 years since I've had the car.

Will a slave cylinder cause a hard pedal or is that just the clutch?

Looking on rockauto seems the luk is pretty popular.  I see there is an O ring and a pin, the O ring I assume is for the hydraulic line?  Waht is the pin for?  

Any tips in installation?

LUK Slave Cylinder

I’ve changed mine almost every time I have overhauled the clutch. To me it’s just not worth experiencing what you’ve gone through—it’s relatively inexpensive and easy to replace, so why not?

Be warned to follow LUK’s bleeding instructions. I have tried turning the bleed screw (Allen type) and depressing the pedal as one would do whilst bleeding brakes. DON’T! The housing is plastic and the tiny screw can easily strip, leaving you with an inoperative slave cylinder.
Another proud dues-paying member.

1987 Turbo Coupe w/T5OD, 8.8 axle, grey smoke; most options. Got it in 1991 with 41K miles: 3 turbos, 2 heater cores, 1 T5OD full rebuild, 5 clutches, 1 head gasket, 2 Teves II ABS units, etc. later....
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vegas_ss Offline
Senior Member
#6
Ok, thanks for the replies. Car is down for a week or so now as the rockauto delivery date for the slave is the 17th.
1987 TC, 5sp, Boport Stage 3 Head/2.1 Cam
1996 Impala SS, DCM, Borla Cat Back, too much other stuff!!!
2009 Pontiac G8 GXP 6M, 6.2l LS3, Kooks Long Tube, Hi Flo Cats, Mild Cam
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vegas_ss Offline
Senior Member
#7
The LUK LSC147 slave cylinder from rockauto was delivered today. There were no directions included though. The bad of parts has the O ring, roll pin and a cotter pin. None of the images I've seen of this part show a cotter pin and I'm not sure what that would be for. Anyone have a copy of the instructions that would shed some light on what the cotter pin is for?

From what was posted, the instructions indicate to slide retaining clip off the rod and manually depress the plunger (~30x ??) until no more bubbles appear in the reservoir, then slid the clip back over the rod and install? The clip will break when first used. There was some mention that the plastic piece over the end of the rod is needed for proper clutch operation however I don't recall that being on the slave cylinder years ago when I had the engine and trans out. Just remember placing the slave back in and then the cover.

I would think that if the slave is removed the small plastic cover over the rod would be long gone?
1987 TC, 5sp, Boport Stage 3 Head/2.1 Cam
1996 Impala SS, DCM, Borla Cat Back, too much other stuff!!!
2009 Pontiac G8 GXP 6M, 6.2l LS3, Kooks Long Tube, Hi Flo Cats, Mild Cam
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BradM Offline
Member
#8
Mine only came with generic bleeding instructions. The cotter pin is not used, just the o-ring and roll pin. Keep the plastic rod retainer in place. Hook one side to hold the rod back during installation and then unhook it. But keep the plastic rod retainer place as it serves as a bearing surface on the clutch fork. My factory slave had the plastic retainer still in place.
1965 Mercury Comet Caliente; 1968 Mercury Monterey; 1969 F100 Ranger; 1987 Thunderbird Turbo Coupe
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vegas_ss Offline
Senior Member
#9
Brad, so you unhook the retainer rather that let the pressure break it off?

Should get to this in the next few days, Thanks
1987 TC, 5sp, Boport Stage 3 Head/2.1 Cam
1996 Impala SS, DCM, Borla Cat Back, too much other stuff!!!
2009 Pontiac G8 GXP 6M, 6.2l LS3, Kooks Long Tube, Hi Flo Cats, Mild Cam
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BradM Offline
Member
#10
No need to break the retainer, just hook one side and then just unhook it after install. When it comes time to service the trans, you just compress the cylinder and hook the retainer back to hold the rod in place.
1965 Mercury Comet Caliente; 1968 Mercury Monterey; 1969 F100 Ranger; 1987 Thunderbird Turbo Coupe
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