North American Turbocoupe Organization



Plastic Fuel Line leak at connection...
ridgeback Offline
Member
#1
so the engine is back in after seal replacements, oil pump, and Aux. shaft with dizzy. Head, intake & exhaust were untouched. Starts fine and runs with a louder knock in the front cam than I can remember from last time it ran 3 yrs ago, but I am not worried about that right now. I have a fuel line leak where the plastic line comes down the intake side of the engine and snaps into the steel line. Its the forward line, the one behind it snapped on nice and doesn't leak. Not sure which is feed and which is return? but either way whats the easiest fix? Are these line even still available??


Ron
Ron

Black 87 TC, 2nd owner since [email protected], [email protected]
Current Mods: Gillis valve @18psi. K&N Cone. Removed AC components, New: Esslinger Aux. Shaft, Seals, Melling Oil Pump, Heater core. Ranger cam & rollers, new tower bearings, Walbro 255 fuel pump
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Gman Offline
Member
#2
Hey Ron,

The thicker line is the supply (feed), and the thinner line is the return. Should be fairly easy to disconnect from both ends. Not sure, but you may be able to buy a repair kit with the line and fittings from your local parts store.

Good luck,

Rob
1987 TC project car
Red butt splice - boosting about a bar
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ridgeback Offline
Member
#3
I have read where a "Dorman" fitting was used... it was the same connection with a male barbed end. They cut off the busted fitting and heated the line end with a heat gun to soften it, then inserted the barbed end into the soft line. They didn't say if they had it clamped or not but it supposedly worked. Any ever do this?
Ron

Black 87 TC, 2nd owner since [email protected], [email protected]
Current Mods: Gillis valve @18psi. K&N Cone. Removed AC components, New: Esslinger Aux. Shaft, Seals, Melling Oil Pump, Heater core. Ranger cam & rollers, new tower bearings, Walbro 255 fuel pump
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RocketshipChair Offline
Member
#4
Sure have. We stock multiple repair kits at the dealership I work at. Basically, you either find a new piece long enough that you can reach the nearest quick connect. Or you cut the existing line with a pair of hose cutters, like craftsman's handi-cutters or a tubing cutter (just be careful not to flatten the line at all). The kits will come with 2 small cv style clamps (you'll need cv clamp pliers). Slide one clamp on the end you cut and one onto the piece you're installing. Then either heat up the end of the old line or just lube it up nice with silicone spray (prefer the latter, heating fuel line freaks me out and can be unsafe if done with a torch or anything that makes fire). So jam her in, line up the clamps, crimp both with the special pliers and then you're all set.
Andrew
88 Turbo Bird 5 spd no mods
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ridgeback Offline
Member
#5
"line up the clamps, crimp both with the special pliers and then you're all set"

all sounds familiar from what I have seen available so far except for the clamps & special pliers. I thought it was just a simple press fit connection once tube is heated?

Ron
Ron

Black 87 TC, 2nd owner since [email protected], [email protected]
Current Mods: Gillis valve @18psi. K&N Cone. Removed AC components, New: Esslinger Aux. Shaft, Seals, Melling Oil Pump, Heater core. Ranger cam & rollers, new tower bearings, Walbro 255 fuel pump
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RocketshipChair Offline
Member
#6
This is the style repair kit we use at work.

http://www.spendlessautoparts.com/fuel-f...l3070.html

You'll need a pair of pliers like these:

https://store.snapon.com/Non-Catalog-Ite...55735.aspx
Andrew
88 Turbo Bird 5 spd no mods
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ridgeback Offline
Member
#7
good to know Andrew, Thanks. That item is actually a good deal except for the pliers.

After 2 attempts at the correct Dorman barbed connector, I was going to order my third which I believe was the correct one but I found and exact fit o-ring for my original connector and reattached it all last night. I will test it out tonight cause I had a small amount of ATV on the barbs when reinserted just to give xtra grab onto the hose.

The original barb in hose seam snug as hell but the DIY "heat hose and insert barb" doesn't quite leave me feeling warm & fuzzy.
Ron

Black 87 TC, 2nd owner since [email protected], [email protected]
Current Mods: Gillis valve @18psi. K&N Cone. Removed AC components, New: Esslinger Aux. Shaft, Seals, Melling Oil Pump, Heater core. Ranger cam & rollers, new tower bearings, Walbro 255 fuel pump
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