North American Turbocoupe Organization



Pics of my car, finally...
Noname
Unregistered
#1
Here's my 88 TC. About 115k miles, fully loaded except leather, still original paint!

I finally got around to taking pics of my car. It was a throwaway camera so they aren't great quality. I have pics of the blow off valve install on the stock IC and don't mind my dirty interior, I haven't cleaned it in awhlie. Also, I didn't clean/polish the rear rims, I just did the front to show you what they can look like. They are too much of a pain in the ass.

BTW, what do you guys think of the ride height? My rear sits lower than the front but the guys I got my springs from...www.coilsprings.com say that the front was lowered an inch and the rear was 1 1/8-1 1/4" drop. They told me they will send me either springs to drop the front to match rear or springs to raise the rear to match front, or whatever I want. I think I'm gonna raise the rear about an inch or so.

I know udner the hood isn't too pretty, especially the peeled paint on the IC, but it will look good when I get to it.

Some pics show my intake setup, which uses the stock elbow with 3" IC pipes and flex connectors to mount the 8" K&N under the headlights.

<A HREF="http://d_m22.tripod.com/pics/index.html">CLICK HERE FOR MY PICS</A>

------------------
1988 TurboCoupe - 5 Speed - 115k miles - Fully Loaded except Leather
5"x8" K&N / Cold Air Intake, SVO T3 watercooled .48/.60 A/R, Gillis Valve @ 15 psi, HKS Super Sequential BOV, Walbro 255 HP Fuel Pump, Kirban AFPR, 3" DP, 3" Cat, Dual 2.5" UltraFlos into ATR SS axle/tailpipes, Centerforce Dual Friction Clutch, Pro 5.0 Shifter, Koni Adjustable Struts, KYB Gas-A-Just Rear Shocks and Quads, Custom Progressive Rate 1" Lowering Springs, M.M. C/C Plates, Energy Suspension Parts Everywhere, PST Ball Joints/Tie Rod Ends, Autometer Boost/Vac & Air/Fuel Gauges

[This message has been edited by dm22 (edited 09-05-2002).]

[This message has been edited by dm22 (edited 09-05-2002).]
Reply

Kev Offline
Posting Freak
#2
Pics not coming up for me.

Kev
Kev
1988 TC 5spd
Reply

Dan E Offline
Posting Freak
#3
Pics worked for me...

Nice, I like the ride height...yeah, the rear does look lower...

Have you experienced any problems running a BOV instead of a BPV ???


------------------
Dan Eaves
88TC 5spd, Crower 5.5" Sportsman Rods, Short Wiseco Pistons bored .030" Over, Ported Head with Polished Combustion Chambers, Gutted & Polished Upper, Ported & Polished Lower, Polished T/B, Ported E6, SVO T3 .63AR Turbo, Bosch Bypass Valve, 3" DP w/No Cat, 2 1/2" DynoMax single cat back w/DynoMax Super Turbo Muffler, RR Cam, K&N in Fenderwell, Gillis Boost Valve, Centerforce I Clutch, Removed A/C, Polished Wheels, Polished Valve Cover, Polished Crank and W/P Pulleys, Walbro 255LPH HP Pump, Kirban Adj FPR, and the DAMN Heater Core is new too !

NATO MEMBER (Vice Chairman...if it's a vice...I deal with it)
Dan Eaves
88TC 5spd Vermillion Red, Polished...everything...
Reply

Pete D Offline
Administrator
#4
Pictures working Ok for me. Nice ride>

------------------
NATO Member. it's not a vice, it's an obsession
"The nice thing about each new day is nobody ever used it before" Barnaby Jones
88 TC X 2, 86 SVO, mods list at
http://www.turbotbird.com/showroom/pd_88tc.htm
Pete Dunham


Reply

Noname
Unregistered
#5
I don't have any problems which would cause me to pull it off. I think it runs a lot smoother with the BOV and it sounds great. Shifting is very smooth with the T3 I have on. I feel safer because I don't get the compressor flutter from the T3. And most of all it sounds good.

The problem I have to deal with is when I get into, then have to stop. You can smell it running rich. But its not bad at all really. When I put the BPV fitting on and ran it as a BPV, I smelled the same thing but not as much. After you stop, the smell goes away in like 10 seconds, unless you rev it up and let off the BOV. In my opinion, for all that the BOV does, I can deal with a little smell.

------------------
1988 TurboCoupe - 5 Speed - 115k miles - Fully Loaded except Leather
5"x8" K&N / Cold Air Intake, SVO T3 watercooled .48/.60 A/R, Gillis Valve @ 15 psi, HKS Super Sequential BOV, Walbro 255 HP Fuel Pump, Kirban AFPR, 3" DP, 3" Cat, Dual 2.5" UltraFlos into ATR SS axle/tailpipes, Centerforce Dual Friction Clutch, Pro 5.0 Shifter, Koni Adjustable Struts, KYB Gas-A-Just Rear Shocks and Quads, Custom Progressive Rate 1" Lowering Springs, M.M. C/C Plates, Energy Suspension Parts Everywhere, PST Ball Joints/Tie Rod Ends, Autometer Boost/Vac & Air/Fuel Gauges
Reply

gtbird Offline
Member
#6
Pics not coming up for me. I keep getting an error message saying URL can't be retreived.

------------------
1988 T/C Silver with red interior, fully loaded except for leather. I prefer cloth anyway!
1988 T/C Silver with red interior, fully loaded except for leather. 5 lug conversion with 97 Cobra wheels, Cobra 13" brakes up front, Mustang brakes out back, Koni adjustable shocks and struts, NOS Koni lowering springs . Maximum Motorsports control arms and caster/camber plates, subframe connectors.
SOLD September 2020. Will miss this car after 19 years of building/driving/showing....time for a new chapter in my life.
Reply

oldraven Offline
Senior Member
#7
pics working fine on my end. yeah, the ride hight is nice. I'd drop the from instead, myself. Nice work with the wheels. You going to paint the ic white too?

------------------
I'd like to think my life has a soundtrack, and it sounds just like the white album.

1987 Turbo Coupe, 5-spd. Burgundy, soon to be black oldraven.
I'd like to think my life has a soundtrack, and it sounds just like the white album.

1987 Turbo Coupe, 5-spd. Candy Apple Red w/ Charcoal Smoke Accents, k&n drop in, 2.5" duals. Stirring from her winter slumber.

http://www.cardomain.com/id/oldraven

http://www.cardomain.com/id/doasa
http://www.cardomain.com/id/jeepishltd

CAW!!
Reply

JONESER Offline
Senior Member
#8
I was wondering how the BOV works ON the IC like that. I understand that when you let off the throttle, the air goes back toward the turbo and would have to go through the IC on the way. But, how do you know that that's the proper placement on the IC to relieve the pressure? Why not just put it in the line,save the IC and know forsure that none of the air will go back to the turbo?
I'm not knockin' the way it's done, I'm just curious...
The car looks nice too!

------------------
87 Turbo Coupe, 5-speed, boost at 18 PSI, K&N in finder, tangerine paint, shaved door handles, locks and emblems, painted interior trim(same as exterior), tiger print headliner, visors and door panels, Autometer gauges, 5.6" monitor & Playstation 2, lowered, white pony wheels...did I forget anything?
87 Turbo Coupe, 5-speed
White with blue pearl, interior trim peices painted (same as exterior), shaved trunk emblems and bleeder valve...so far
90 Notchback--turbo project!
87 Turbo Coupe, 5-speed, boost at 18 PSI, K&N in finder, tangerine paint, shaved door handles, locks and emblems, painted interior trim(same as exterior), tiger print headliner, visors and door panels, Autometer gauges, 5.6" monitor & Playstation 2, lowered, white pony wheels...did I forget anything?
Reply

Noname
Unregistered
#9
Well, I decided to cut right into the IC because I did have a spare stock IC. I wanted to get it as close to the turbo as I could. If you look at the stock IC, there is really no room to weld a 1" ID spacer except there. It would be in the way if you did it on the TB side of the IC. And there really isn't any room on the upper left side of the IC. Really, space for a weld like that is limited so that's what I came up with. I figure if you get it closer to the turbo, the better off I would be because the turbo pressure will let out on its way up through the IC. The BOV works so fast I don't think the air would have enough time to come back through the IC and cause any problems.

I probably could of spent more time on the spacer, like maybe making a spacer that was angled the position the BOV farther towards the front of the car. It all went pretty good though, it works good for me, doesn't leak boost or anything.

Also, with the HKS BOV, you have to buy a HKS flange for the BOV to mount on. You can get it aluminum or steel, if you weld to the IC you need to use the aluminum flange.

This is what I did, other people will probably come up with different ways to mount it so good luck.

------------------
1988 TurboCoupe - 5 Speed - 115k miles - Fully Loaded except Leather
5"x8" K&N / Cold Air Intake, SVO T3 watercooled .48/.60 A/R, Gillis Valve @ 15 psi, HKS Super Sequential BOV, Walbro 255 HP Fuel Pump, Kirban AFPR, 3" DP, 3" Cat, Dual 2.5" UltraFlos into ATR SS axle/tailpipes, Centerforce Dual Friction Clutch, Pro 5.0 Shifter, Koni Adjustable Struts, KYB Gas-A-Just Rear Shocks and Quads, Custom Progressive Rate 1" Lowering Springs, M.M. C/C Plates, Energy Suspension Parts Everywhere, PST Ball Joints/Tie Rod Ends, Autometer Boost/Vac & Air/Fuel Gauges
Reply





Users browsing this thread:
1 Guest(s)



Theme © iAndrew 2018 - Software MyBB