North American Turbocoupe Organization



PCV system Question?
Noname
Unregistered
#1
Does the PCV "breather" take a suction from the factor air box? If not, where does it get it's air from?
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Pete D Offline
Administrator
#2
The breather on top of the valve cover gets suction at the compressor inlet elbow when the engine is in boost mode. When the engine is pulling vacuum the intake manifold supplies that vacuum to the pcv valve connected to the oil seperator under the intake manifold and the breather acts a a fresh air inlet.

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88 TC X 2, 86 SVO, Main TC with K&N, 3"DP to 2.5"duals through Dynamax, Ric valve at 17+ and disconnected KS.
Elite Bodega 16" chrome wheels. Autometer pod w/ A/F and Vac/boost gauges. New engine: Total Seal rings and TRW pistons, ported and polished head w/ cc'd chambers,1.59"exhausts, SS valves, gutted upper, knife edged lower, A-230 cam, Race Engineering Adj Cam Sprocket, Crowlers, ARP head studs, and rod bolts. Walbro 190 pump and T-3. Centerforce II, KB subs and jack rails.
Pete Dunham


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Noname
Unregistered
#3
Well, I believe that the oil leak I've had since day one, was coming from where the dipstick tube is installed in the block. An o-ring installed on the tube sealed that up but I pulled the dipstick out about a quarter inch and now oil is pushing out of the top of the dipstick tube (probably just vapors with a few droplets, maybe a total of an ounce or two of oil).

I'm assuming there's a blockage somewhere in the PCV system.

What do you guys think?

PCV valve is ok, hose from PCV valve to intake is clear, hose from breather to turbo inlet elbow is clear and connected now (found that disconnected last night).

Where does the hose that goes to the bottom of the PCV valve come from?

Why the H*** can't I get this thing to stop leaking oil?!

I'm sorry to keep posting about this damn oil leak but I haven't been able to thoroughly enjoy my car and I've had it for about 2 months!!!

Thanks all.
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Pete D Offline
Administrator
#4
Ron,
The most likely cause is the PCV valve. The old shake it and if it rattles, it's OK does not apply in total to these turbo engines.
To test it well, take it out of the hoses.
Try to blow through the small end, several times. If you can blow anything through it it is bad and is letting boost into the crankcase. This has been known to cause all kinds of problems from leaking oil pans and valve covers to even blowing dipstick out of the tubes and of course blowing oil out also.
If your is defective, replace it with ONLY the FORD PCV. Most other brands of PCVs are not designed to stop the flow of boost. BTDT.
the hose on the bottom of the PCV goes to the oil seperator which is a baffled sheet metal chamber that press fits into the block. It is to seperate oil from what ever air is drawn through the PCV system in the course of it's normal function. Also to avoid oil out the dipstick tube be sure to fully seat the dipstick

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88 TC X 2, 86 SVO, Main TC with K&N, 3"DP to 2.5"duals through Dynamax, Ric valve at 17+ and disconnected KS.
Elite Bodega 16" chrome wheels. Autometer pod w/ A/F and Vac/boost gauges. New engine: Total Seal rings and TRW pistons, ported and polished head w/ cc'd chambers,1.59"exhausts, SS valves, gutted upper, knife edged lower, A-230 cam, Race Engineering Adj Cam Sprocket, Crowlers, ARP head studs, and rod bolts. Walbro 190 pump and T-3. Centerforce II, KB subs and jack rails.
Pete Dunham


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Noname
Unregistered
#5
I find the best test and easiest to test any pcv valve is while the engine is running pull it out of the valve cover(or whereever it is connected to the crankcase ventilation if you get a slight increase in rpm you know it is functioning fine. If no increase the pcv is either bad or you have a blockage somewhere.

ac3 out

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Second place is the first loser
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Jeff K Offline
Administrator
#6
Even the Ford EV127A PCV valve can still leak some boost into the crankcase. To positively stop any boost leakage, put a one way check valve in the line between the PCV and intake. A brake booster check valve from a 93 Merc Villager minivan, part # F3XY-2365-A fits perfectly, and can be had new for about $8 from any Ford or LM dealer. Since I put this valve on my car, my intake tract in 100% bone dry.

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Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 20 psi, forced air intercooler, water injection, bypass valve, Ranger roller cam, subframes, etc., etc.. // 86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP nitrous, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.... // 91 Escort: Bone stock winter car // 00 Windstar (wifes vehicle)
Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
11 Crown Vic Interceptor
14 Toyota Camry (wifes car)
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized
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