North American Turbocoupe Organization



Parking Brake Removal from Brake Caliper
Chemist Offline
Junior Member
#1
I searched and found several related posts but none that answer my "simple" specific problem:

How do you remove the parking brake cable from the rear brake caliper. I have removed the C washer and have the end of the cable free - and based on the new caliper I purchased, the parking brake cable just fits in a hole in the metal of the caliper - BUT I can not get the cable holer out of the caliper hole.

Any techniques, tools, suggestions?

Thanks!
DennisWRaichart
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Ryan H Offline
Posting Freak
#2
It is rusted in place. After you remove the c-clip, spray some PB Blaster or equivalent on it and let it sit for a few minutes. Then come back, take an old flathead screwdriver and press the tip against it and hit it with a hammer to drive it out. Make sure you remove the cable itself from the caliper first.
'88 TC Smile Walbro 255HP, Stinger FMIC, PIT BOV, Pro 5.0, Kirban, RR cam, FRPP strut tower brace, T3
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Jeff K Offline
Administrator
#3
If you mean the cable end is in the slot in the caliper and you cant get it out, unbolt the caliper and remove the brake hose first. that way you can move / rotate the caliper to get it out.
Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
05 Taurus SEL Duratec daily driver
04 Taurus Duratec (wifes car)
02 Pontiac Grand Prix GT
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized
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Robert Camp Offline
Posting Freak
#4
Yep, the outer cable bushing is rust welded to the guide hole. Try using a drift first.

Then again I think I remember reading somewhere that screwdrivers had a fairly unique purpose. I've always thought they were multipupose tools; chisel, drift, pry bar, center punch. Never could figure why the manaufacturers couldn't make a tougher handle though, mine keep breaking, as well as the tips. <grin>
Robert Camp
'86 Medium Regatta Blue TC, 5-speed, original owner.
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DonH Offline
Posting Freak
#5
I hope you bought a new cable as well as a caliper but it is easier to remove if you disconnect the other end and remove the cable and caliper from the car and work on it with the old caliper in a vise. If you work on it with the caliper in the car the probability of not doing any damage to it is very low as you are going to have to hit it pretty hard numerous times to get it out. It is much easier just to cut the cable and sheath and hammer away at the center of it. When you put the replacement cable in clean the rust out of the hole and coat the cable mount with silicone grease (NAPA Sil-Glyde 765-1351 or similar) before installing. Use the same grease on the caliper bolts, the pad contact areas on the caliper mount, the piston where it contacts the pad, the cable where it moves thru the sheath, the lever seal where the shaft enters the caliper and the cable adjuster. And Robert, you should only use that really big screw driver that came with the set to pound on, you know, the one that's foot long and you never found a screw big enough for it.
1987 TC stock except ATR 2.5"
1983 Pontiac Transam T-top 5.7 T56 [email protected] top speed: 176mph
1978 Fairmont 2.3 4-spd Big-top S/W
1946 Willys CJ2A 134.2ci L4 No-top
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