North American Turbocoupe Organization



parkign brake freezing?
BJL Offline
Moderator
#1
it seems that my parking brake cable is ither stickign or freezing, now this wouldnt be that bad if i didnt have it engaged when it this happens.

its been nominally the past few days but no it to the piont the ca barly moved and when im nto on the htriottle it wil lock the back wheels at first.

both of my cars do this, new brak cables, pads and rotors are new, its odd, only does this as it gets cold, and seem to happen hen its belwo freezing, any ideas?
Brian Larkin
88TC 330,000 miles
Slightly Modified
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Jeff K Offline
Administrator
#2
Are the ends of the cables more or less water tight? If not, water can get in there, and freeze the cable to the sheath. Seen it happen before.... Ice does a real good job of binding up the cable.

If near an electric outlet, get a heat gun and warm the cables, and see if that unsticks them.
Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
11 Crown Vic Interceptor
14 Toyota Camry (wifes car)
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized
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charles88tc Offline
Senior Member
#3
my car seemed like it did this yesterday. I released the parking brake and the car didnt want to roll back like it usually does from the same spot. I was wondering this same thing.
88 tc 5sp, Gillis, K&N on vam, Redneck cat back exaust (nothing from the cat back) 220,000 mile short block. Rebuilt 86 head and cam.
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TurboE Offline
Posting Freak
#4
i know this isnt really the answer you want but i barley ever use the emergency brake...only when really needed. i noticed the tendances for the ebrake to stick and the way the ebrake/rear caliper is designed it doesnt take much for those sliders to stick, especially if the boots are in bad shape. use it as little as possible especially in bad/cold weather.
-88 TC Black
5spd, Precision SC50 T3/T4, QH/SD Tune, Gillis, AFPR, 255FP, WB O2, K&N, Ported E6, 3" DP, ATR 2.5" Duals, 3:73 Rear, Konis, Eibachs, 18" Voxx Wheels, X Drilled Rotors.
-06 G35 Coupe Diamond Graphite
-97 Pathfinder
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Forcedbird Offline
Member
#5
This is good info. My parking brake didn't work since I bought the car back in Sep 2001. I was going to get new cables and fix the parking brake this coming summer, but with this new info I might not. The only reason I was going to fix them anyway was to have a way to stop if my brakes ever fail.

How often do the brakes fail on these cars anyway?
88 TC

HY 35, Ported Oval head w/OS valves, EEC Tuner, Bob's MOAL, .510 lift cam, Tial 38mm wastegate, K&N in fender, Kirban AFPR, Walbro 255lph fuel pump, 57 lb inj., GN intercooler, Gillis valve, Race eng. adjustable cam pulley, HKS SSQV BOV, Steeda Tri-ax shifter, 4" DP to 2 1/2" exhaust, no muffers, Timing set to 12* BTDC, 26 psi of boost. Needs to get tuned!

Proud to be a NATO member!
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phantom Offline
Member
#6
It ends up being the rear calipers. I had that problem when i first bought min back in 03. I could push the pedal down, and get tension, but no engaugement...or sometimes it would engauge but wouldnt release for a few hours. Bought two new calipers ($65 at advance Auto...my job..lol) and the problem went away. Now i need to find that clip that goes between the rear cable and the incar pedal. My dad decided to tighten my cables, and when i went to engauge them "POP" the clip broke....NAPA had the P/N but nothing came up in their computer
left right left...the perfect shift...maybe i should call cadience when i bang the gears....
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