P/S, Valve, and Charging Questions

My power steering pump is whining real bad. I tried the fluid flush, I tried jacking the front end up and turning the wheel side to side, but it still whines louder than the engine, and the fluid still looks like someone poured milk in it, even right after a flush. So, to make sure I am doing this right,...

Is the engine supposed to be running or not when I put the front-end on jack-stands and turn the wheel from side to side? If I set up a vacuum on the power steering pump, is the car supposed to be running or not?

On a different subject, my car is now blowing a HUGE cloud of blue smoke on startup, and getting about 23mpg at 70mph on a flat road at 2300 ft msl, 25 mpg at 55mph, both with A/C off. As far as the smoke, I'm guessing valve seals at least, probably cracks in the head with worn guides knowing the age of the car, and that ain't helping the gas mileage. Is it time to start saving for a new head, or is there a less expensive, less drastic fix? Will a compression test help diagnose worn seals and/or guides?

Last set of questions - Are there any disadvantages to buying a 105 amp 1G alternator rebuild kit, (compared to getting a rebuilt 65amp for the same price,) besides having to run a heavy gauge wire from the alternator to the battery side of the solenoid in parallel with the stock circuit? Are the single wire alternators (for about twice the price of the rebuild kit) better/worse?

Thanks for the help.

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Mike Walsted - NATO member
1986 5-speed TurboCoupe and 1985 5-speed XR7

Mike,

If you're turning the wheel from side to side to bleed out the air, then YES it should be running at the time.

If you end up needing to get a new pump, do you think you will replace the whole pump and reservoir, or rebuild your current one? Reason I ask is -- the P/S pump on my 86 has a slow leak, so I've been topping it off. I do have the rebuild kit, but it has at least 5,000 seals in it, and it does NOT look like a good time. Maybe I should just go for a new pump?

I don't know that a compression test will narrow down valve guides or seals, as it could be the rings too if you have low compression results on at least one cylinder.

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86 TC, 73 Mini, 72 Mini Van project (w/ LS-1 motor)

Click here to beat a ricer.

Originally posted by philS:
...If you end up needing to get a new pump, do you think you will replace the whole pump and reservoir, or rebuild your current one?

I'd have to get a new one, just due to time constraints and the like. Since the current pump still works as it should except for the noise, and doesn't really leak, I'm not planning on replacing it unless the noise is a sign of impending failure. It's the same pump that was on it when I bought the car, and it was noisy then until I changed the fluid. The noise started this time after a hose fitting failure quite a few months ago, and has gotten worse with time. Changing the fluid this time didn't help so far, but I'm willing to keep trying.

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Mike Walsted - NATO member
1986 5-speed TurboCoupe and 1985 5-speed XR7

[This message has been edited by Walsted (edited 10-24-2003).]

Mike, on the startup smoke, I'm sure you are correct as far as seals and maybe worn guides are concerned. I know you got some miles on the car. A compression test is always a good idea on a hi miler, but it won't do a lot for diagnosisng valve seals and worn guides. The only things a compression test tell you is how well the piston rings are sealing against the cylinder walls and how well the valves are sealing against the valve seats.

What may be more useful for diagnostics is when it smokes and doing a vacuum reading. Worn guides will admit air that can upset air/fuel. Normal vacuum would be 18-22 with 4 cylinders tending towar the 18-20" and the needle fairly steady. Worn guides will cause needle fluctuation of around 3" on either side of normal

Are you also seeing any smoke when you take off after sitting at a light or similar pause in driving? Or a puff when downshifting?

I would not automatically assume the head is cracked. It could be but if it's not been overheated, it might be OK. You would want to have it magnafluxed once it's off the car. If it's OK crack wise, the guides can be repaired by putting in new guides

It's time to put money away for something but whether it a rebuild of the current head or looking for a new one I can't say.



[This message has been edited by Pete D (edited 10-24-2003).]

Originally posted by Pete D:
..
Are you also seeing any smoke when you take off after sitting at a light or similar pause in driving? Or a puff when downshifting?

Nope, just on startup. It is real obvious then, and fills the whole back window. If any appears when I am stopped at a light or a stop sign, I don't see it.

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Mike Walsted - NATO member
1986 5-speed TurboCoupe and 1985 5-speed XR7

Okay, I was wrong about it just smoking at startup. It smokes at idle as well, just not nearly as noticeable.

I'll be getting the vacuum and compression checked this weekend when I change the oil and tranny fluid. Sure hope I don't need a long block.

If it does turn out to be the head, are any of the late 80's early 90's 2.3 Mustang or Ranger heads interchangeable with my current head, and do any of them have a D-shaped chamber? I noticed that the autoparts stores all want to sell a head with heart-shaped combustion chambers as a replacement.

Thanks for the help.

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Mike Walsted - NATO member
1986 5-speed TurboCoupe and 1985 5-speed XR7

[This message has been edited by Walsted (edited 10-28-2003).]

You don't want anything with heart shaped chambers. I believe that will include later 80 & 90s Mustang and Ranger heads

Besides the D port turbo heads, other heads with the D shaped combustion chamber are some early "oval port" Pinto heads. I think you would have to drill/tap one intk manifold hole in those heads. Supposedly they can be made to flow a little more than the D port heads.

I wouldn't give up on your current head, unless testing proves it's cracked. Worn valve guides can always be replaced.

Okay, went to the shop and did compression and vacuum tests.

All four cylinders tested between 145# and 150# PSI, inclusive. (145, 150, 148, 150.) At this elevation, base atmospheric pressure is around 7 or 8% lower than sea level, if that matters. (13.6 psi vice 14.7)

I didn't have a chance to warm up the car before the vacuum test, since it is a closed building. The car was idleing around 1050, and vacuum averaged about 17.5inches, varying by a quarter inch either way during the test. Vacuum reading was taken directly from the tree, from the port next to the port coming from the upper intake.

The mechanics there to assist when needed volunteered different opinions about the smoke before the tests. One thinks it is valve seals and guides, another thinks my turbo is leaking oil and needs rebuilt. Given the readings above, does it sound like replacing valve seals will fix the smoke problem?

Sucked all of the PS fluid out of the pump and replaced it with Type F ATF. The old stuff looked like it had been mixed with oil. Even after replacing the fluid, it still whines real loudly.

Thanks for any help and advice.

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Mike Walsted - NATO member
1986 5-speed TurboCoupe and 1985 5-speed XR7

Mike, those are god compression readings, especially if the engine was cold. The vacuum reading is a tad low but that sound like it was because it was cold. It could easily go
up 1 or more inches when warm and that would put you in very good shape. Normally you would expect to see 18 to 21 on a warm 4 cylinder so you are in good shape there. I would also say the valve guides are not significantly worn.

If it smokes the very instant it starts, I would guess valve seals. Bad seals let oil flow down the guide engine on or off so it's right there to be burned as soon as the engine fires. High vacuum, like at idle, would also tend to draw oil down the guides. I can't say 100% it's not the turbo, but if there isn't a lot of shaft play in the turbo and you don't find unusual quantities of oil in the vam hose, compressor housing or IC, I'd go with valve seals