North American Turbocoupe Organization



Overheating...and codes
Jarron Offline
Senior Member
#1
Ok. I replaced the t-stat, and I'm going to replace the radiator cap in a few minutes. Car USED to run hot into the RED. Replaced the coolant temp sensor and now the fans come on a LITTLE earlier and now the car runs hot but NOT into the red, but CLOSE. After I shut the car down, I can hear the bubbling from the pressure in the top hose especially near t-stat. Im thinkin of trying 1 more stat??

Also I pulled the KOEO codes and got the following: 23, 14, 41, 42 & 63. With the KOER i got: 23, 73 & 76 What is needed to be done?
1987 TC aka BIRDPWR - 5 Speed - Silver / Raven; NEW MOTOR!, .48 T3/4 Stage II, BOV, Gillis BoostValve,K & N Filter, MSD Ignition, 3G Alt, HID 8000s.

NEXT UP: 3" DP, 255HP fuel pump, AFPR, larger injectors, FMIC
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Jeff K Offline
Administrator
#2
Try cleaning out the port in the intake that points toward the driver side strut tower.
Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
11 Crown Vic Interceptor
14 Toyota Camry (wifes car)
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized
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Jarron Offline
Senior Member
#3
Clean it out with what? And isn't there 2 ports facing the DS? And what exactly will that do?
1987 TC aka BIRDPWR - 5 Speed - Silver / Raven; NEW MOTOR!, .48 T3/4 Stage II, BOV, Gillis BoostValve,K & N Filter, MSD Ignition, 3G Alt, HID 8000s.

NEXT UP: 3" DP, 255HP fuel pump, AFPR, larger injectors, FMIC
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Jeff K Offline
Administrator
#4
I should have been more clear........ the water passage in the intake. They plug up and limit coolant flow past the ECT causing it to read cooler.
Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
11 Crown Vic Interceptor
14 Toyota Camry (wifes car)
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized
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Jarron Offline
Senior Member
#5
Jeff, are you talking about right there where the coolant temp sensor is in the lower intake? If so how do I clean it? I hope I dont have to take the lower intake off...
1987 TC aka BIRDPWR - 5 Speed - Silver / Raven; NEW MOTOR!, .48 T3/4 Stage II, BOV, Gillis BoostValve,K & N Filter, MSD Ignition, 3G Alt, HID 8000s.

NEXT UP: 3" DP, 255HP fuel pump, AFPR, larger injectors, FMIC
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Pete D Offline
Administrator
#6
It is a fitting near the very bottom on the lower intake, driver's side, that a hose fits on. The fitting points toward the driver's inner fender. That U shaped hose goes toward the back of the engine to the line coming from the heater core. See http://www.turbotbird.com/FAQpage/cooling1.jpg

You can get to it from underneath, maybe from on top. Take the hose off and run a thin screw driver up into the fitting to break the crud up. Flush it out. This is an excellent chance to change all those hoes on that side if they haven't been done. They can be done from underneath and you can use those pre formed, cut to fit heater hoses listed in the Part # forum. And Honest, it is easier than doing a heater core Big Grin
Pete Dunham


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Jarron Offline
Senior Member
#7
Ugh...that look tedious....oh well. Pete, do I need to drain the coolant system to do that? And do I need to change that sensor? How do I flush out? Hey, I just noticed that my fan wiring is a hack job. Looks like the previous owner tried to install a switch for the fans, but apparently does not work. Damn fans only come on when the car get HOT.
1987 TC aka BIRDPWR - 5 Speed - Silver / Raven; NEW MOTOR!, .48 T3/4 Stage II, BOV, Gillis BoostValve,K & N Filter, MSD Ignition, 3G Alt, HID 8000s.

NEXT UP: 3" DP, 255HP fuel pump, AFPR, larger injectors, FMIC
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Pete D Offline
Administrator
#8
Quote:do I need to drain the coolant system to do that?
Multiple choice:
1.You don't have to but......... Big Grin

2.Ahhhh, it's going to drain one way or the other. You will be happier draining it first.

3. Real men don't mind coolant in the face!!!
Pete Dunham


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gadgetolds Offline
Posting Freak
#9
Quote:Originally posted by Pete D:
Quote:do I need to drain the coolant system to do that?
Multiple choice:
1.You don't have to but......... Big Grin

2.Ahhhh, it's going to drain one way or the other. You will be happier draining it first.

3. Real men don't mind coolant in the face!!!
Yea, I love the way the coolant makes your skin feel..
1988 Turbo Coupe - A237 cam, K&N Cone, T3(.60-.63), 255 Walbro, Gillis BV, gutted and knifed intakes, ported e6, 3" elbow/dp to dual 2.5s, Kirban and spearco fmic.

Up next, ported head, t3/t4 upgrade.
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Jarron Offline
Senior Member
#10
AhHHHHHHH......thing STILLS run hot cuz the fan doesnt come on when its supposed to. I'm thinkin I'm gonna have to install a manual switch but the article in the FAQ is either unclear to me or I'm a complete idiot to electronics. I cleaned out the passage (i think i did) on the underside of the intake and on the topside. Could it be the hoses that lead to these places?
1987 TC aka BIRDPWR - 5 Speed - Silver / Raven; NEW MOTOR!, .48 T3/4 Stage II, BOV, Gillis BoostValve,K & N Filter, MSD Ignition, 3G Alt, HID 8000s.

NEXT UP: 3" DP, 255HP fuel pump, AFPR, larger injectors, FMIC
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