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Ok here's the problem. She dies at idle.sometimes drops to 200 then back up again. TPS is set at .95v the airbypass has been clean the motor on it has switched out three times.checked vacume lines replaced a broken T .I don't know were or what else to check . The only codes I get are egr-34 .
and I get a slite surge at 50mph.88tc
[This message has been edited by dogman (edited 07-31-2001).]
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Pete D
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Joined:
Apr 2001
Northern OH
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Have you cleaned out the EGR? Like the IAC, it can get carboned up and stick open when it should be closed.
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88 TC X 2, 86 SVO, Main TC with K&N, 3"DP to 2.5"duals through Dynamax, Ric valve at 17+ and disconnected KS.
Elite Bodega 16" chrome wheels. Autometer pod w/ A/F and Vac/boost gauges. New engine: Total Seal rings and TRW pistons, ported and polished head w/ cc'd chambers,1.59"exhausts, SS valves, gutted upper, knife edged lower, A-230 cam, Race Engineering Adj Cam Sprocket, Crowlers, ARP head studs, and rod bolts. Walbro 190 pump and T-3. Centerforce II, KB subs and jack rails.
Pete Dunham
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yes have cleaned out the egr...still stalls !!!!!!!
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Jeff K
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Joined:
Apr 2001
Milwaukee, WI
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The curb idle (idle speed set with IAB electrical connector off) should be set to 750 RPM, so if it drops to 200, either your curb idle isnt set correctly, or you have some other problem, since even if the IAB isnt working, idle should only drop to 750.
Are you sure the EGR vac solenoid isnt leaking and opening the EGR valve at idle? You can see the EGR valve diaphram move as it opens, so watch it when the idle goes low and it dies.
Bend and shake the wiring harness / connectors to the injectors, TFI, ECT, IAB, VAF, TPS etc and see if you can get any correlation between the bending and bad idle.
Lastly, look at the VAF, which is just a variable resistor much like the TPS. Could be a "bad spot" on the VAF. Remove air intake so you can access the VAF door. Monitor voltage between SIGRETURN (BK/W) and VAF output (W/BK) with key on engine off. As the VAF door is opened, voltage should increase smoothly from about .5V to about 4.7V. Especially watch for "non smoothness" in the voltage reading around 1.2V, which is the typical VAF voltage at 1000 RPM hot idle.
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Jeff Korn
88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 20 psi, forced air intercooler, water injection, bypass valve, Ranger roller cam, subframes, etc., etc.. // 86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP nitrous, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.... // 91 Escort: Bone stock winter car // 00 Windstar (wifes vehicle)
Jeff Korn
88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
11 Crown Vic Interceptor
14 Toyota Camry (wifes car)
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized
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RDOG
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Joined:
Jun 2001
Ontario. California U.S.A.
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They told me to adjust the TPS, and it solved my problem. You and I where asking the same exact questions on both websites. Hope this info helps.
1986 Turbo Coupe. Boport StageIII head, Boport 2.1, Performance Techniques 50 trim hybird, StageII.63, stinger 3" exhaust, Phenolic spacer, Boglog header,NPR FMIC intercooler setup, kirban fpr, bigrmotorsports fuel rail, diablo water meth kit, CAI, remote mount TFI, CHE rear adj control arms, MAC girdle, 8.8 rear disc, aluminum drive shaft, H&R lowerings springs Tbird Turbo Specific, y MAS!!
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tps is new was set at the shop via computer.
replaced the vacume line going to the over boost sensor and tighted up the rest of the clamps on the hose goint to trubo. seems to a bit better but still stalls very once in a while. o2sensor was new when engine was in stalled as well as temp sensor. going to check out the vam as well .thanks
[This message has been edited by dogman (edited 08-01-2001).]
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