North American Turbocoupe Organization



Oil Sending unit ?S
1987tc Offline
Senior Member
#1
I need to change my oil sending unit. I know it is 9/16 hex on the lower part of it. ( Checked on new one) Does anyone have any tips as to the best way for someone with large hands to reach it? I need to change it today! I don't really want to remove the upper intake but will if it really does help. I want to make this as quick and easy (is anything on a tc ever easy?) aspossible.
Any help will be great!
Wes
Sold my Turbocoupe. It went to a good home.
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Jeff K Offline
Administrator
#2
A 9/16" crowfoot wrench will make it easier, but it isnt 100% necessary. If you have the EGR valve on, remove it and it will make access easier. With the EGR off, you can get down there with a regular 9/16 wrench and turn it about 1/20 a turn at a time, but because it is a NPT thread, it gets loose enough to turn by hand after just a turn or 2. When you put in the new one, use teflon paste on the threads to avoid an oil leak.

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Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 20 psi, forced air intercooler, water injection, bypass valve, Ranger roller cam, subframes, etc., etc.. // 86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP nitrous, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.... // 91 Escort: Bone stock winter car // 00 Windstar (wifes vehicle)
Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
05 Taurus SEL Duratec daily driver
04 Taurus Duratec (wifes car)
02 Pontiac Grand Prix GT
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized
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1987tc Offline
Senior Member
#3
I can spin the top part of it now. Real easy. Matter of fact I at first thought it was loose,Till I felt the bottom of it while turning the top. I could turn the top with one finger..... Gee I think I found my oil leak!
I don't own a crows foot. Guess I will have to walk over to the hardware store and pick one up.
Though I might try taking off the egr first. It is only there for looks anyway since I plugged the hole a long time ago.
Thanks Jeff!
Wes
Sold my Turbocoupe. It went to a good home.
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SteveX82 Offline
Posting Freak
#4
Quote:Originally posted by 1987tc:

Though I might try taking off the egr first.
Wes

I was gonna warn you to be careful when tightening up the EGR valve so you don't crack the ears off of it, but then I noticed you said you blocked out the egr altogether. Somehow, instead of just hitting the back button a few times to go back to the forum, I hit "submit now". So just disregard this post.

[This message has been edited by SteveX82 (edited 11-20-2001).]
Estoril blue 1987 TC 5spd, 148k mi, a237, Bailey BOV, spec stg3 clutch, spearco FMIC, 50 trim t3/t4, 3" exhaust, Bamafuel, LM1, 55pph
Best 1/4 mile: 12.31 @ 110mph on 25psi
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1987tc Offline
Senior Member
#5
Well that wasn't it either!
I can see oil dripping from the oil feed line going to the turbo where it comes from the oil sending unit. I thought it was the sender since it was damaged anyway. How tight should I have to tighten that thing?
I put teflon tape on it and tighened it up with a wrench. Not as tight as I could get it but good and snug. Do I need to really crank it down tight???
HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Sold my Turbocoupe. It went to a good home.
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Jeff K Offline
Administrator
#6
The turbo oil feed line has flare fittings on each end (I am looking at an extra one right now). With flare fittings, the threads dont form the seal the flare part does. Look for damage to the sealing part of the flare, or foreign matter on the sealing surface or in the takeoff on the head. Might want to remove the oil line and try to pressure test it to see if it has a small hole or stress crack in it right near the fitting. You should have to get it pretty tight to get it to seal, like 10 - 15 lbft torque max, but you shouldnt have to crank the snot out of it to get it to seal.

------------------
Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 20 psi, forced air intercooler, water injection, bypass valve, Ranger roller cam, subframes, etc., etc.. // 86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP nitrous, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.... // 91 Escort: Bone stock winter car // 00 Windstar (wifes vehicle)
Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
05 Taurus SEL Duratec daily driver
04 Taurus Duratec (wifes car)
02 Pontiac Grand Prix GT
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized
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1987tc Offline
Senior Member
#7
Jeff,
I wasn't reffering to the line being tight. I was talking about the sender being tight.
Wes
Sold my Turbocoupe. It went to a good home.
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Wags88TC Offline
Senior Member
#8
pnr on the other site, showed me what he did to fix the leak(he's making me one up as we speak). Get rid of the "T" and screw the pressure sending unit directly into the block. There is an oil pressure supply in the back of the head(hex key plug)you tap into with a 90, and add a new line to the turbo. He says it cures the leaks!
Steve Wagner
Nato member
84 SVO
88TC, 5 speed, StageII Star clutch w/ StageIII pressure plate,lightened flywheel, K&N in fender, gillis valve, 255lph Walbro, Kirban adj.FPR,Bypass valve, 3" exhaust (high flow cat/ Magnaflow muffler), A-pillar gauges(A/F & Boost), 16" ARE 5 spoke wheels 7" front 8" rear(225/50VR16 / 245/50VR16 Yokos'). Subframe connectors
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1987tc Offline
Senior Member
#9
That sounds like a good plan. But one problem is that I have to drive this car to work tomorrow and be there at 7:30 am and it is a little cool here in Indiana to walk!
Wes
Sold my Turbocoupe. It went to a good home.
Reply

Jeff K Offline
Administrator
#10
Quote:Originally posted by 1987tc:
Jeff,
I wasn't reffering to the line being tight. I was talking about the sender being tight.
Wes


With teflon paste / tape on the sender threads, it doesnt have to be screwed in tight at all. It should seal with just a few foot pounds of torque, like a good solid hand tightening would give it if you could get your hands on it and the body of the sender didnt twist around on its fitting.


------------------
Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 20 psi, forced air intercooler, water injection, bypass valve, Ranger roller cam, subframes, etc., etc.. // 86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP nitrous, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.... // 91 Escort: Bone stock winter car // 00 Windstar (wifes vehicle)
Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
05 Taurus SEL Duratec daily driver
04 Taurus Duratec (wifes car)
02 Pontiac Grand Prix GT
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized
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